colker
Well-known
other than the voightlander. 😀
which light meter for an M3?
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ray*j*gun
Veteran
Sekonic L208
literiter
Well-known
Leica Meter MR, MC or a nice handheld like the Gossen Luna Six. I personally prefer the handheld over the dedicated clip on MR meter.
My Leica Meter MR is accurate enough and couples to my shutter speed dial. The zone of sensitivity is about that of a 90mm lens.
A handheld meter, with reflected and incident capabilities works best for me.
I have a M2 and M4-P.
My Leica Meter MR is accurate enough and couples to my shutter speed dial. The zone of sensitivity is about that of a 90mm lens.
A handheld meter, with reflected and incident capabilities works best for me.
I have a M2 and M4-P.
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Sekonic L-318!
Easy to read without glasses in any light. Takes AA batteries. Flexible, take 5 degree spot attachment.
I used it for years with my M4-P, now with my S3.
B2 (;->
Easy to read without glasses in any light. Takes AA batteries. Flexible, take 5 degree spot attachment.
I used it for years with my M4-P, now with my S3.
B2 (;->
maddoc
... likes film again.
Seconic Twin-Mate L208, Gossen-Digisix or Leicameter MR-4. 🙂 I have used all of them, still have the L208 and Leicameter MR-4. They do a perfect job with my meterless cameras (M2 M4-P).
Rogrund
Antti Sivén
VC Meter II.
Lilserenity
Well-known
I like the Leica MR meter.
The M3 looks nicer without it but I couldn't describe my M2 which has the MR meter as pig ugly.
I've also found it pretty accurate, combined with some nouse about exposure and you can get some really nice slides back.
The only down side is it does need PX625s which were discontinued in many countries a few years ago due to mercury content. You can get PX625 replacements, I use WeinCells. I've found the recent ones last well, upwards of a year in some cases. I'm lucky to have a photography shop about 1000yds from my front door that stocks them at a reasonable price!
The M3 looks nicer without it but I couldn't describe my M2 which has the MR meter as pig ugly.
I've also found it pretty accurate, combined with some nouse about exposure and you can get some really nice slides back.
The only down side is it does need PX625s which were discontinued in many countries a few years ago due to mercury content. You can get PX625 replacements, I use WeinCells. I've found the recent ones last well, upwards of a year in some cases. I'm lucky to have a photography shop about 1000yds from my front door that stocks them at a reasonable price!
januaryman
"Flim? You want flim?"
I like the VC because it'ssmall, but I prefer my old Gossen Luna Pro. Very easy and quick and needle fluctuations are easier to judge than LEDs that either are on or not.
visiondr
cyclic iconoclast
Any of the Wester Master meters are great. And they maintain the battery independence you might feel good about. I have a Master V and love all the information it provides as well as the excellent incident metering "invercone".
b.espahbod
Optophile
Eyes and if it malfunctions use Gossen Starlite 2 😀
benmacphoto
Well-known
Sekonic L-558R, the best light meter I have ever used. It has a great spot meter. Don't know if you will be using flash at all but if you are this is the meter to get.
dfoo
Well-known
I have that meter. The problem I have with it is the size... its a beast!
deardorff8x10
Member
sekonic 398
sekonic 398
I use a sekonic 398 -- it is big (like a small cell phone), but is very nice to use for incident readings. For some reason, the smaller meters don't seem as easy to control in use and incident meters (other than spot) are tricky for me, but that may be due to my own experience and how I think about exposure.
The 398 has a large white sphere, and you can point it at the sun, half away from the sun, or all in the shade to get a sense of the light hitting the subject, then pick the exposure. This seems harder to do with a small sphere, as it is difficult for me to see how much shade vs. sun is hitting the sphere of the meter. I find that when making multiple pictures in the same light, it is nice to meter once, then take a lot of pictures. Usually, I guess exposure, then see if the meter agrees, and often it does.
I once read a book called "Beyond the Zone System" that has great advice on using an incident meter. One point I try to keep in mind is that shade is about 2 stops less than sun, so that is a good rule to remember -- by going in the middle of sun and shade (i.e. one stop more open than sun) will often give enough latitude to include the whole range of luminance in the scene.
forgot to mention -- I like the 398, since no batteries needed.
sekonic 398
I use a sekonic 398 -- it is big (like a small cell phone), but is very nice to use for incident readings. For some reason, the smaller meters don't seem as easy to control in use and incident meters (other than spot) are tricky for me, but that may be due to my own experience and how I think about exposure.
The 398 has a large white sphere, and you can point it at the sun, half away from the sun, or all in the shade to get a sense of the light hitting the subject, then pick the exposure. This seems harder to do with a small sphere, as it is difficult for me to see how much shade vs. sun is hitting the sphere of the meter. I find that when making multiple pictures in the same light, it is nice to meter once, then take a lot of pictures. Usually, I guess exposure, then see if the meter agrees, and often it does.
I once read a book called "Beyond the Zone System" that has great advice on using an incident meter. One point I try to keep in mind is that shade is about 2 stops less than sun, so that is a good rule to remember -- by going in the middle of sun and shade (i.e. one stop more open than sun) will often give enough latitude to include the whole range of luminance in the scene.
forgot to mention -- I like the 398, since no batteries needed.
Last edited:
geejay
Member
Gossen Lunasix F works well for me.
Its also a great flash metre as well should you ever need it.
Its also a great flash metre as well should you ever need it.
waileong
Well-known
Unless you need to attach it specifically to your m3, the camera and the meter are totally unrelated. So without specifying yout criteria, how can one give any kind of suggestion?
colker
Well-known
i will use it while shooting w/an M3. if i asked "which meter" i couldn't post it on th M forum, maybe not even on the rangefinder forum! what if someone had a suspicion i would shoot w/ a Pentax SLR 67?😉😀
RichardB
Well-known
I've got an M3 with MR meter which I took off long ago as its very slow. I used to use another body with TTL to meter for the M3 whether Nikon or Leica M6. Now I just use a pair of M7's.
I really like TTL metering.-Dick
I really like TTL metering.-Dick
mojobebop
Well-known
how does the 'minolta auto meter lv f' rate?
i've used thru the camera meters since high school,
and now i'm back on the incident light meter.
i've used thru the camera meters since high school,
and now i'm back on the incident light meter.
waileong
Well-known
There's an accessories forum. You can ask there without worrying about the camera.
colker
Well-known
but that's the problem w/ endless subforums on a website. it's bureaucracy. it's like needing something from government and constantly being told to look in another section or jurisdiction.
i have cameras w/ built in meters. now i have 2 cameras w/out meters. each of them has a different operation mode and subject. different mood and ergonomics. i ask because i want inspiration from other M3 users. what's wrong w/it? nothing.
the other day i showed some pics and asked if the guys at the critique forum liked it.. someone posts "i don't like it". really? i could ask him to show me his and unleash some hardcore criticsm. pretty easy. but then if you don't have anything nice to say better to...
