Erik van Straten
Veteran
Paul,
Thanks a lot for showing your beauty. It's a fine piece. Did you know that black M2's with serial numbers in the 103XXXX group are very rare? Just let me know when you want to sell it...
Erik.
Thanks a lot for showing your beauty. It's a fine piece. Did you know that black M2's with serial numbers in the 103XXXX group are very rare? Just let me know when you want to sell it...
Erik.
Paul C. Perkins MD
Perk11350
Erik,
Yeah - I looked up some stats on it about two or three years ago - and began to understand why some collectors were salivating when the saw it during the late 1980's. . .
Beyond being a collectible it's also a beater. Whenever I shoot theatre or any low light subjects - out comes the "Master of Darkness." I'd sell one of my kidneys before I parted with mi compadre.
I would never be without an M-2.
Paul
Yeah - I looked up some stats on it about two or three years ago - and began to understand why some collectors were salivating when the saw it during the late 1980's. . .
Beyond being a collectible it's also a beater. Whenever I shoot theatre or any low light subjects - out comes the "Master of Darkness." I'd sell one of my kidneys before I parted with mi compadre.
I would never be without an M-2.
Paul
richard_l
Well-known
My choice would be an M2 with lever rewind but without the self-timer or rapid loader. If you want a self-timer, there is an attachment which can do that. No point in having the clockwork incorporated into the camera body (unless you are a hopeless narcissist and use it all the time). For a non-jiggling shutter release, a cable release is far more convenient. The original film loading system is easy, foolproof, and fast (if you buy a few extra takeup spools). IMHO, the M2 is the greatest of the Leica rangefinders. Instinctively I reach for the M2 instead of my M3 or M6......What I really want to know is which M2 is best as a user?
Are there stepped, clear cut stages in the variations of the M2? I.e, the addition of the self timer, rapid loading, button/lever rewind?.....
januaryman
"Flim? You want flim?"
Where would one get these take up spools? Just checked ebay and got nothing. Can I use the same as used in the FS cameras?
thomasw_
Well-known
Early ones had a button rewind, later ones had a lever rewind. Doesn't matter. Contrast of the RF patch is most important.
With respect to Frank, I differ on this. The button rewind does matter to me, as it caused me to doubt the magic of the M2; it was one of those small things that became a big deal in my use. I have had both lever and button rewinding M2s: the button rewind can be accidently depressed; it can stick slightly; you need to use the film advance lever to unlock it: in short, the button rewind became a very annoying and problematic feature. I have a M2 without a Self Timer and with a lever rewind; it is a fantastic camera! Sometimes I think I like my M2 and M3 bodies better than my MP....they are THAT good!
Benjamin
Registered Snoozer
Thank you all for your input.
What Thomasw mentioned is what I was worried about; niggling faults that can inhibit the function of otherwise useful objects.
I can't find one on my FM2.
I'm down-grading to a Leica. Incredible.
Benjamin
What Thomasw mentioned is what I was worried about; niggling faults that can inhibit the function of otherwise useful objects.
I can't find one on my FM2.
I'm down-grading to a Leica. Incredible.
Benjamin
Last edited:
FrankS
Registered User
It's all in the mind. Some people can't get past bottom loading, for instance.
Bingley
Veteran
My recently acquired M2 is a 931***. Older'n dirt, I guess, but still younger'n me. Damn! Still, seems to work pretty well, button re-wind and all. I wish I worked as well. What FrankS says...
semrich
Well-known
Sometimes I think I like my M2 and M3 bodies better than my MP....they are THAT good!
So, I'm not the only one. Like thomasw there are times when I think the M2 I just got is nicer than my MP.
The only issue I have with mine is it does not have the protective collar around the lens release button. Once I pulled the camera out of my bag sans noctilux, good thing it let go in the bag and on several other times as I continually check the lens and it clicks into place again.
telenous
Well-known
Sometimes I think I like my M2 and M3 bodies better than my MP....they are THAT good!
So, I'm not the only one. Like thomasw there are times when I think the M2 I just got is nicer than my MP.
Right on the money. I 'd have sold my MP if it weren't for its newer, somewhat brighter rangefinder spot. I like the M2 so much, I 've got two of them (still a long way to go though to reach TomA's state of bliss
I personally like the S/T, it's handy for people like me who are not always mindful to carry a cable release. But I understand the niggles about it too, the positioning is a bit discomfiting and it gets triggered easily esp. when I pull the camera out of the bag.
Then again, what would we be gnawing and talking about if it weren't about that
novum
Well-known
I have a non-TTL M6: is the M2 notably nicer in the fit'n'finish department? I keep reading about how much nicer the M2 and M3 are than the newer M's with the exception of the MP, but I have a hard time believing it. Exactly how is the M2 nicer than a run-of-the-mill M6 or M7? Concrete examples of differences in aesthetic, picture-taking, or ruggedness between the M2 and M6, anyone?
oscroft
Veteran
I have two Leica bodies - a non-TTL M6 and an M2, and most of the differences are really quite small - enormous to some dedicated Leica purists, but small to most of us ordinary mortalsI have a non-TTL M6: is the M2 notably nicer in the fit'n'finish department? I keep reading about how much nicer the M2 and M3 are than the newer M's with the exception of the MP, but I have a hard time believing it. Exactly how is the M2 nicer than a run-of-the-mill M6 or M7? Concrete examples of differences in aesthetic, picture-taking, or ruggedness between the M2 and M6, anyone?
My M2 feels a bit more solid than my M6, but both really feel great - I'd say the M2 feels more robust.
The mechanics (film wind on, gears) feel smoother on the M2 (though "softer" might be a better word).
The knob rewind on the M2 is less convenient than the lever rewind on the M6, but I don't really mind it.
The film loading on the M2 is slower than the M6 (but in my experience, not by much).
The biggest difference to me is the viewfinders. My M2 viewfinder isn't prone to flare the way the M6 VF is, and I much prefer having just one VF frame at a time (with the M6 and its two frames at a time, I sometimes find myself using the wrong frame). Having said that, I like having the 28 frame on the M6 (but I have a good feel for the 28 fov and am happy using the full frame on the M2 for 28).
So, M2 or M6? I think one should have one of each
(But, and I don't really know how to explain why, I have a real attachment to the M2 that I don't have to the M6).
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Thanks to a guy in Japan I should be getting my CV 21mm viewfinder today (he got my money order) and I can start using my 21/3.4 Super Angulon today on my M2 button rewind body instead of the VC 15 on the Bessa L. I hope that I can get used to carrying the weight and get used to the "telephoto" coverage of a 21. My Leitz finder had cracked glass up front and a few dents when I bought it cheap a several years ago so it's loss was no big deal. Thanks Maddoc.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
There is not much difference between using a M2 and a M6/MP. They are both good, mechanical cameras. However, using the metered M's introduces a step that you dont have to contend with when using M2/M3/M4's. When you shoot with a metered M (or Bessa/Zeiss for tha matter) - the bright diodes in the finder will draw your eye away from the shot for a split instant. There is also a compulsion to get it "right" - ie the diodes glowing in the right sequence and meters are not "right" - they have an opinion and not necessarily the right one)..
As a rule I find that I get more "hits" with a M2 - less thinking and fiddling with aperture rings/shutter speed. The time lag is less and the "composition" as it is - is better. Now. admittedly "Sunny F16 rule" is not as precise as a built in meter - so more screw-ups exposure wise. I do standardize my films to bl/w 400 asa (Tri X mainly) and the film has a great latitude.
Best way of learning to use a M2 is probably a 20 pack of what ever film you intend to use, a handheld meter and shoot the whole thing in a couple of days. Initially you will meter for every shot, soon you will only use the meter when you are not 100% sure and after 10-15 rolls, you will realize that you haven't used the meter at all!!! Thats when it gets to be fun. Yes, there will be foul ups - but probably only by 1/2 stop to 1 stop and the film can probably handle that. No better learning tool than telling yourself that "OK, it is a long week end and I have 20 rolls to shoot" Tell the family that you dont want to deal with them, turn of the cell-phone and think about an area around were you live and "cover" it photographically. Preferably stick to one lens too and enjoy yourself.
As a rule I find that I get more "hits" with a M2 - less thinking and fiddling with aperture rings/shutter speed. The time lag is less and the "composition" as it is - is better. Now. admittedly "Sunny F16 rule" is not as precise as a built in meter - so more screw-ups exposure wise. I do standardize my films to bl/w 400 asa (Tri X mainly) and the film has a great latitude.
Best way of learning to use a M2 is probably a 20 pack of what ever film you intend to use, a handheld meter and shoot the whole thing in a couple of days. Initially you will meter for every shot, soon you will only use the meter when you are not 100% sure and after 10-15 rolls, you will realize that you haven't used the meter at all!!! Thats when it gets to be fun. Yes, there will be foul ups - but probably only by 1/2 stop to 1 stop and the film can probably handle that. No better learning tool than telling yourself that "OK, it is a long week end and I have 20 rolls to shoot" Tell the family that you dont want to deal with them, turn of the cell-phone and think about an area around were you live and "cover" it photographically. Preferably stick to one lens too and enjoy yourself.
januaryman
"Flim? You want flim?"
Great advice, and true. But once you start backsliding, you lose your own built-in light meter and need to check the real one.
FrankS
Registered User
Given the choice between 2 M2's, one with lever rewind and one with button rewind, I would choose the lever rewind model, all else being equal. I recently bought one that's a button rewind for a good price, and bought a second one that is still making its way to me, that has a self timer and lever rewind.
The bigest difference between an M2 and an M6 is the fact that an M6 has a built in meter and 2 sets of framelines showing all the time. I prefer a single frameline set at a time. I did not notice a difference in build quality feel between my old M6 now sold, and my new M2, but it could probably use a cla to get it smoother.
I was going to send some cameras to Y.Ye but now the Canadian $ has taken a tumble against the US $. Might need to find a Canadian tech. but someone cheaper than Kindermann.
The bigest difference between an M2 and an M6 is the fact that an M6 has a built in meter and 2 sets of framelines showing all the time. I prefer a single frameline set at a time. I did not notice a difference in build quality feel between my old M6 now sold, and my new M2, but it could probably use a cla to get it smoother.
I was going to send some cameras to Y.Ye but now the Canadian $ has taken a tumble against the US $. Might need to find a Canadian tech. but someone cheaper than Kindermann.
mr_phillip
Well-known
When you shoot with a metered M (or Bessa/Zeiss for tha matter) - the bright diodes in the finder will draw your eye away from the shot for a split instant. There is also a compulsion to get it "right" - ie the diodes glowing in the right sequence and meters are not "right"
I agree with this, but with one minor addition. One of the things I like best about the M6 Classic, as opposed to all other LED-metered RFs I've used, is that the finder has only two diodes. Somehow I find it easier to ignore the lights with this setup than I do when there's a third LED. Psychologically, when there's a circular LED in the middle it just nags at me that it needs to be lit. It's not a huge deal, but it's enough to slow me down from time to time.
As to build differences between the M2 and M6, well the former does feel a little more solid (but only very slightly) and the chrome finish is certainly nicer. Mine also feels fractionally smoother in use (although I had it serviced last year, while my M6 is now 13 years old and hasn't been in for a CLA once in that time). Both are great cameras though, and both stand out to me in the Leica range as particularly good buys on the used market.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
I've never tried an M6. The meters in my CL and Bessa L seem accurate enough when I go into "substitute incident mode" reading off the palm of my hand and opening up a stop but I'm less likely to forget to open up if I just set the ISO at about half the speed.
Neither one comes close to the M2 for smoothness, silence, finder quality, etc., etc., etc., and the M2 and M3 do have nicer finishes.
Neither one comes close to the M2 for smoothness, silence, finder quality, etc., etc., etc., and the M2 and M3 do have nicer finishes.
novum
Well-known
Thanks for clearing up the M2/M6 differences for me. I'll have to pick up an M2 one of these days. BGN/users at KEH are affordable right now, though the selection seems slim.
ChrisLivsey
Veteran
There is not much difference between using a M2 and a M6/MP. They are both good, mechanical cameras. However, using the metered M's introduces a step that you dont have to contend with when using M2/M3/M4's. When you shoot with a metered M (or Bessa/Zeiss for tha matter) - the bright diodes in the finder will draw your eye away from the shot for a split instant. There is also a compulsion to get it "right" - ie the diodes glowing in the right sequence and meters are not "right" - they have an opinion and not necessarily the right one)..
This is so true, but of course with the M6/MP the solution is to remove the battery
The "feel" of the M2 release has not been mentioned. Without the meter detent it is so smooth and accurate it is a highlight of the camera along with the pure single frames which make such a difference. I would, if funds permitted, specify in my fantasy MP the single frame lines option.
Mine is the sweet spot 967***range. The button stays in. I prefer no self timer, for me it spoils the feel of the camera in the hand. I pick up the M2 over my M6 (and my M8)
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.