Which M6?

dkaplan74

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Ok. So i am seriously looking at two M6's to buy. One, is a classic, .72. Fantastic shape. The other, is TTL, .85, also in great shape, the TTL being $100 more than the classic. I plan on shooting 35/50/90. Mostly 35 and 50 to start out with and I do wear glasses. Which would be a wiser choice for me? Thanks folks!!
 
The viewfinder magnification would make the difference for me, all else about equal. For shooting 50mm, 75, 90, 135, the .85x finder is a clear advantage. But when you slide 35mm in there it goes the other way unless the lens is the M3 "goggled" type.

Even without glasses I cannot see the whole 35mm frame on my M2, but then the M6 has slightly smaller frames anyway, making it a bit easier to see while showing less of the actual subject when focused beyond a couple of meters. So recently I've chosen to use the goggled-type 35mm even on the M2 so I can see outside the framelines, and I'd think it even more advantageous for a .85x finder magnification.
 
I wear glasses and am left-eye dominant (which makes it a bit worse than right-eye and glasses) and I couldn't quite see the 35mm frame lines on my .72 M6 "classic" so I bought a .58 TTL. I've looked through a .68 M9 and MM and I can only just see the 35mm frame lines on one of those (which, unfortunately for my bank account, means I could switch to a digital M if I wanted to!) If you want to use a 35mm, get the .72.
 
I have an M6 .85 and I wear glasses. The 35mm frame lines are useable but not great. If you can only have one, the .72 is probably better. I have a chrome .72 and a black .85 and they make an excellent pair. If you use a fast 50 or longer the .85 is better. Good Luck. Joe
 
Ok. So i am seriously looking at two M6's to buy. One, is a classic, .72. Fantastic shape. The other, is TTL, .85, also in great shape, the TTL being $100 more than the classic. I plan on shooting 35/50/90. Mostly 35 and 50 to start out with and I do wear glasses. Which would be a wiser choice for me? Thanks folks!!

Some people find it difficult to see all four of the 35mm framelines at once with the .85. Obviously this varies from person to person. Originally my TTL was a .85 and I had it converted to a .72 for that very reason. I've never missed the .85 finder. In a pinch you could always add the x1.25 magnifier.

I would get the ,72 and put the $100 bucks towards getting the flare fix upgrade.

If you use flash find a ,72 TTL...


PS: I don't wear glasses, so that wasn't the problem with the .85. But the .85 is a problem for a lot of people who wear glasses.
 
I have one of each. I love shooting with a 50mm lens on the .85, and if I had a longer lens, it would be great too. The .72 is a better general purpose body if you own several lenses. It allows 28mm lenses, and the 35mm frames are a lot easier to see than the 35mm frame in the .85 body. That said, I would never sell my .85; I shoot 50mm a lot.
 
The viewfinder magnification would make the difference for me, all else about equal. For shooting 50mm, 75, 90, 135, the .85x finder is a clear advantage. But when you slide 35mm in there it goes the other way unless the lens is the M3 "goggled" type.

Even without glasses I cannot see the whole 35mm frame on my M2, but then the M6 has slightly smaller frames anyway, making it a bit easier to see while showing less of the actual subject when focused beyond a couple of meters.

I faced the same problem with M2 and I wear glasses. So I had my M2 VF rear aperture changed from the rectangular-type to M4 barrel-type during overhaul. DAG sells the M4 barrel-type VF rear aperture. This change made a difference for me. I can see the 35mm framelines more easily now.

The M6 has a smaller framelines compared to M2 as you mentioned and it has the barrel-type rear aperture. So perhaps both features make the framelines (especially 35mm) more visible.

Just my 2 cents worth. :)
 
Yep, sounds like you'd benefit most with a .72x and add on a magnifier later if you think you"ll need it.
 
It really boils down to what lens you plan on shooting the most. If you are planning to shoot:

More of 50mm: Obvious choice-.85x

More of 35mm: Both will do well. Considering you use glasses, maybe the .72x.

More of 90mm: The .85x will give more accurate focus...

Another thing you could do, if your eye power is not too far off, is to use the dioptre eyepiece and place it in the .85x permanently, that way, I believe you will be able to see the 35mm frame lines easily. Good luck whichever decision you make!
 
Thanks everyone for the advice! It is so greatly appreciated. I am moving from Fuji X cameras to my first Leica, leaving digital behind!!
 
The classic has no engraved top plate, and "Leica" on the red dot.

early "WETZLAR" M6's have the top plate engraved with a red "Leitz" dot. some even have a the big "M6" engraving as well. I'd avoid them as they do not have rubber eye pieces and can scratch your eyeglasses. early production M6 cameras have a few tweaks along the way before things get settled.

more reading
 
I wear glasses, don't see the full framelines with the 35, for me 50 is the best as for shooting experience. But the 35 is really usable. I speak about 0.72 M6 Classic... I would shoot a 0.58 anything for 35, but hey, they're not cheap.
 
early "WETZLAR" M6's have the top plate engraved with a red "Leitz" dot. some even have a the big "M6" engraving as well. I'd avoid them as they do not have rubber eye pieces and can scratch your eyeglasses. early production M6 cameras have a few tweaks along the way before things get settled.

more reading

My "Big M6" has rubber around the eyepiece...
 
early "WETZLAR" M6's have the top plate engraved with a red "Leitz" dot. some even have a the big "M6" engraving as well. I'd avoid them as they do not have rubber eye pieces and can scratch your eyeglasses. early production M6 cameras have a few tweaks along the way before things get settled.

more reading

Funny, I've been told that those are the *only* M6s to consider, as they were made to much higher standards, and once Leica really got into mass producing them the QC went down and quality of individual parts was lest trust worthy.
 
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