Which Printer for Black and White?

dazedgonebye

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This thread...http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=852019#post852019 has me thinking about upgrading my printer. I currently have an Epson R1800. I'm not happy with the black and white output.
I'd like to avoid aftermarket inks and cis systems for now.
Which printer would you all recommend for the most easily achieved neutral black and white prints?
Pointers to good reviews also appreciated.
 
I have an Epson 3800 that produces wonderful neutral b&w prints. I believe the colour performance is very good too, but I haven't made that many colour prints.
 
I've got a HP B9180 and that's certainly very good. From what I can gather the Epson 3800 is top dog at the moment for a reasonable sized printer. And although pricey to buy its running costs are such that it works out cheaper than the Epson 2400 in the long run, although it would depend on how much use it got. It is also A2 instead of A3+ so if you use it a lot you gain both ways.
 
I've been using the HP B9180 for a while. It can be set to use only the black inks (there are 2, black and light gray) which results in a very neutral print. The prints are probably more permanent as well since these blacks are mostly carbon pigments.

I think you really need to see actual results since this is really a very personal, aesthetic decision. Maybe some kind of sample print exchange for different printers and papers on RFF would be useful. I could probably send you a sample of my output if you are really interested in this printer.

Cheers,
Gary
 
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I hope you don't mind if I add an additional question here, which I think is relevant.

For those that use the black ink set ups, with multiple shades of grey in place of different color inks, how hard is it to switch back to color? Can you go back and forth pretty easily, or do you just dedicate a printer for B&W only?

Thanks,
Paul
 
Epson K3 printers - 2400,3800, 4800, 7800...., Canon ipf (and possibly smaller printer using lucia inkset) and HP printers with 3 or more blacks on board.

I use an IPF5000 and still like the output.

Mike
 
I hope you don't mind if I add an additional question here, which I think is relevant.

For those that use the black ink set ups, with multiple shades of grey in place of different color inks, how hard is it to switch back to color? Can you go back and forth pretty easily, or do you just dedicate a printer for B&W only?

Thanks,
Paul


I looked in to this a bit myself. Seems to me the most practical option is to dedicate a printer to b&w. Not a problem for me, since I don't anticipate printing much color anyway.
In fact, converting my current R1800 do dedicated B&W might be a good solution. It's only the bad luck I've had with third party inks in general that puts me off. I didn't try the dedicated black sets, but the color ones I tried were crap. I could never get the printer to work reliably without banding with the aftermarket inks.
 
I looked in to this a bit myself. Seems to me the most practical option is to dedicate a printer to b&w. Not a problem for me, since I don't anticipate printing much color anyway.
In fact, converting my current R1800 do dedicated B&W might be a good solution. It's only the bad luck I've had with third party inks in general that puts me off. I didn't try the dedicated black sets, but the color ones I tried were crap. I could never get the printer to work reliably without banding with the aftermarket inks.

I have converted my R1800 to a dedicated b&w printer using the Piezogaphy K7 ink set. It's a bit expensive and fiddly to set up because you need to use the external ink system, which means having to install the tubing, fill the pots etc. but the good news is that you can actually get b&w prints without the horrible colour cast, metamerism etc. that the Epson inks for the R1800 suffer from.

An important consideration is that you can only use matt paper with this ink set although I understand they are working on a new set that will be suitable for all paper. Personally I have yet to see an inkjet print that replicates the look of a good "unglazed glossy" gelatin silver print so it's best to think of the process as providing something complementary rather than as a direct alternative. You will also need to buy the Quadtone RIP software to print your TIFs.

Personally, I only shoot, scan and print b&w so this setup suits me fine so I expect it would suit you too, however if you still want to be able to make colour prints I would recommend upgrading the R1800 for something else as switching between the Piezogaphy ink set and a colour inkset every time you wanted to print colour would not be practical IMHO.
 
I have converted my R1800 to a dedicated b&w printer using the Piezogaphy K7 ink set. It's a bit expensive and fiddly to set up because you need to use the external ink system, which means having to install the tubing, fill the pots etc. but the good news is that you can actually get b&w prints without the horrible colour cast, metamerism etc. that the Epson inks for the R1800 suffer from.

An important consideration is that you can only use matt paper with this ink set although I understand they are working on a new set that will be suitable for all paper. Personally I have yet to see an inkjet print that replicates the look of a good "unglazed glossy" gelatin silver print so it's best to think of the process as providing something complementary rather than as a direct alternative. You will also need to buy the Quadtone RIP software to print your TIFs.

Personally, I only shoot, scan and print b&w so this setup suits me fine so I expect it would suit you too, however if you still want to be able to make colour prints I would recommend upgrading the R1800 for something else as switching between the Piezogaphy ink set and a colour inkset every time you wanted to print colour would not be practical IMHO.

I did some research in to this system some time ago as well. I need to revisit it.
One of my reservations was that I'd like to be able to make digital negatives for cyanotype printing and the system will not (as you point out) print on glossy paper. That rules out OHP Plastic film I use for negatives.
One alternative might be to convert the R1800 for black and white then buy a used R2400 for digital negatives. Of course space then becomes an issue.
 
It looks like I've found an inexpensive option to try before moving on to a new printer.
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/R1800.htm
Using 3 black inks in place of the current 2 blacks and gloss optimizer may give me better results...sacrificing only the ability to print on gloss papers. To do this, I'll need three inks from inksupply.com and the QTR Rip program. The inks are cheaper than the Espson inks for the same positions and the QTR Rip program is a $50 shareware thing.
This seems like an inexpensive toe in the water compared to doing a full conversion to monochrome inks and I think it's worth a try.
 
Steve,

I don't know about the R1800, but the R800 is very poor at feeding the heavier matte papers. Could be an issue you want to check out first.

Cheers,
Gary
 
Steve,

I don't know about the R1800, but the R800 is very poor at feeding the heavier matte papers. Could be an issue you want to check out first.

Cheers,
Gary


Thanks Gary,

So far I've had not problems with feeding paper, but I haven't tried anything heavier than Epson's heavy matte and OHP transparency.
 
I've got two printers, an Epson 2200 (b&w-dedicated, using MIS inkset and QTR) and an Epson R2400 loaded with the K3 inks. I just ordered the b&w MIS ink cartridges for the R2400 to try it out. Both are very nice printers that produce fine prints.
 
Ray,

Are you talking about UT-3D inks for the 2400 for B&W?
I'm waiting on a set of those to arrive myself.

Or are you talking about a different inkset?
 
Steve - the 3K method for the R1800, the one you mentioned, is the way to go if you have one of those printers. For me, I'm either getting a 3800 or going the K-14 route with a 1400. I am fine with a dedicated since I do my color printing elsewhere. But the 3K route works wonderfully from the prints I've seen as the head and nozzles are made for pigments and a 1.5 picoliter - that's some small drops.

A RIP is a raster image processor. Imaging a printer driver, which gives you control over most of your usual printer settings, on steroids and with ridiculous control. That's a RIP. QTR is one designed specifically for B&W printing by a photographer named Roy Harrington out here in the bay area.

Englewood? I grew up in Edgewater and my mother lives in Fort Lee now.
 
Ray,

Are you talking about UT-3D inks for the 2400 for B&W?
I'm waiting on a set of those to arrive myself.

Or are you talking about a different inkset?

Actually, I'm going to try the K4 inks, which are replacements for LK and LLK, but includes an EZW cartridge for the yellow position (3 cartridges). I run UT7 in the 2200, but I'm also going to try the UT Bowhaus/QTR inkset.

.
 
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