R
rpsawin
Guest
Flyfisher Tom said:
If you are talking about the Hexar RF, no it isn't. It has full manual functions. It is, however, battery dependent.
Bob
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Which "R"?
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If you are talking about the Hexar RF, no it isn't. It has full manual functions. It is, however, battery dependent.
Bob
blacklight
digital renegade
Hi, so for now the only options left for me are R3M or R2a, so I have three last questions.
1. As R3M has no AE - how much would you (do you) miss it for street photography?
2. 1:1 R3x viewfinder - has it significant advantage against R2s viewfinder? Shoud I go for R3x camera because of it?
3. 50mm Heliar vs. 40mm Nokton - which one's better (do you like more/would you choose)?
Thanx
1. As R3M has no AE - how much would you (do you) miss it for street photography?
2. 1:1 R3x viewfinder - has it significant advantage against R2s viewfinder? Shoud I go for R3x camera because of it?
3. 50mm Heliar vs. 40mm Nokton - which one's better (do you like more/would you choose)?
Thanx
blacklight
digital renegade
bump. anyone?
FrankS
Registered User
Personally I have a totally unfounded bias against electronic cameras so I would choose the M not the A, but if you don't worry about battery dependency (and you probably needn't) then get the A camera because it gives you an option that the M camera lacks.
As for the 2 with 35mm framelines or the 3 with 1:1 finder and 40mm framelines instead, I've read that some folks who wear glasses have difficulty seeing the 40mm framelines. But the focus is more accurate on th higher mag. finder.
As for the 40 Nokton or 50 Heliar, the Nokton is faster but the Heliear is a 50, my favourite focal length.
Hope I've been helpful. 🙂
As for the 2 with 35mm framelines or the 3 with 1:1 finder and 40mm framelines instead, I've read that some folks who wear glasses have difficulty seeing the 40mm framelines. But the focus is more accurate on th higher mag. finder.
As for the 40 Nokton or 50 Heliar, the Nokton is faster but the Heliear is a 50, my favourite focal length.
Hope I've been helpful. 🙂
sebastel
coarse art umbrascriptor
i can only tell for my experience with M4-2 and M6 (both non-automatic), as well as nikon FM2.blacklight said:
usually no prob in street photography, you just need to be aware of light changes and take a measurement once in a while.
after some training, you should be able to adjust to light changes without measuring ...
but this only applies for B/W and colour negative material. slides require more care.
again, no direct experience on my side. from using M6 and epson R-D1, i like the 0.7x finder more, but the 1x on the epson does also not bother me that much. you need to try!blacklight said:
sorry, no idea.blacklight said:
except, that (opposite to frank) i like the FOV of a 40mm quite a lot. concerning the FL, it's a matter of personal preference. concerning the maximum aperture, i rarely _need_ more than 2, but still i welcome it (as long as it not as heavy as in the noctilux ... ooooooh, quite a burden!).
cheers
sebastian
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pizzahut88
Well-known
R3a function without batteries?
R3a function without batteries?
I tried it at the store.
Without batteries, Shutter won't release.
Had it been otherwise, would have gotten the R3a, or R2a instead.
For me, the R2 is perfect.
The R3m is sold with the lens here, no separate.
So too bad.
I didn't want that 50mm (not that it's bad).
Manfred
R3a function without batteries?
That's right.FrankS said:
I tried it at the store.
Without batteries, Shutter won't release.
Had it been otherwise, would have gotten the R3a, or R2a instead.
For me, the R2 is perfect.
The R3m is sold with the lens here, no separate.
So too bad.
I didn't want that 50mm (not that it's bad).
Manfred
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FrankS
Registered User
Any of the R cameras with an "a" in it's model name has aperture priority as well as manual exposure control, but they can not function without batteries because the "a" Bessa cameras have electronic shutters.
Hi.
Hi.
clintock
Galleryless Gearhead
If you ever wish to take a photograph of a child, while (s)he is awake, the AE function is very helpful. I find the R3a finder on the 50mm setting to be wonderful.
The 90/40 setting is great too, but I use the 90 more than the 40 on the R3a, I prefer the 40 on a leica CL, the R3a 40 lines are a bit out there even without glasses.
The 75 setting is great too, big and clean.
Someday I wish I could figure a way to convert the shutter release lock collar to a meter on/off switch, instead of the partial depression of the shutter release to activate the meter. As it is now, in bright light the meter display is tough to see unless my eye is in the right place, so I sometimes try in vain to make it brighter by pressing the shutter release harder, thus taking various out of focus photos of the side of garbage cans and bushes etc... properly exposed though!
The 90/40 setting is great too, but I use the 90 more than the 40 on the R3a, I prefer the 40 on a leica CL, the R3a 40 lines are a bit out there even without glasses.
The 75 setting is great too, big and clean.
Someday I wish I could figure a way to convert the shutter release lock collar to a meter on/off switch, instead of the partial depression of the shutter release to activate the meter. As it is now, in bright light the meter display is tough to see unless my eye is in the right place, so I sometimes try in vain to make it brighter by pressing the shutter release harder, thus taking various out of focus photos of the side of garbage cans and bushes etc... properly exposed though!
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