jaimiepeeters
Well-known
Can somebody tell me which RFs will work perfectly in a studio (flash) environment?
I own a Hexar AF but have been told that for Flash it's not that appropriate. Some even claim that the QL17 works best in a studio with BW film.
Would love to hear your thoughts.
I own a Hexar AF but have been told that for Flash it's not that appropriate. Some even claim that the QL17 works best in a studio with BW film.
Would love to hear your thoughts.
hans voralberg
Veteran
Why? anything with a sync port/hotshoe will do. Since the Hexar has leaf shutter all the better.
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
To be honest, none. For typical studio work, you are best off with (ideally leaf shutter medium format) SLRs, or, for pack shot/still-life, with view cameras (or a DSLR with shift-tilt lens). Most rangefinders have visible parallax and/or frame scaling issues at close distance. The Fuji G(S)W series medium format rangefinders are about as good as it gets, but even these are no primary choice for studio work.
In other words: Use of rangefinders in studio can be done - and has sometimes been done - when no better tool is at hand, or when the most suitable lens for a desired/required look only comes in rangefinder mount. But in most cases, any of SLR, EVIL or view camera would be preferable - and if rangefinder, you'd want a M8, M9 or R-D1 to be able to chimp.
Of course, there are subjects sometimes shot in studios that aren't particularly studio associated, and for these, rangefinders will be just as suitable as they'd be elsewhere.
Leaf shutter cameras have the advantage of shorter flash sync times - as sometimes necessary to cut out ambient light - but that is more of a outdoor strobist than a studio requirement.
In other words: Use of rangefinders in studio can be done - and has sometimes been done - when no better tool is at hand, or when the most suitable lens for a desired/required look only comes in rangefinder mount. But in most cases, any of SLR, EVIL or view camera would be preferable - and if rangefinder, you'd want a M8, M9 or R-D1 to be able to chimp.
Of course, there are subjects sometimes shot in studios that aren't particularly studio associated, and for these, rangefinders will be just as suitable as they'd be elsewhere.
Leaf shutter cameras have the advantage of shorter flash sync times - as sometimes necessary to cut out ambient light - but that is more of a outdoor strobist than a studio requirement.
Pablito
coco frío
Well, using an RF for studio work is a bit like using bedroom slippers for hiking... possible, just too many disadvantages. Of course it depends on what you mean by studio work... But for products or still life it would be very ill advised.
jaimiepeeters
Well-known
I'm actually just talking about shooting people (models) in a studio or venue using a flash set up......
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
I'm actually just talking about shooting people (models) in a studio or venue using a flash set up......
Any camera will do, provided that it has a hot shoe, PC sync socket or whatever the studio remote supports...
But don't forget, a rangefinder is a rather clumsy tool for tightly composed close-up shots - you'll be more happy with a SLR on head portraits. But for non-formal half-body portraits a RF camera will still be fine.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
I'm actually just talking about shooting people (models) in a studio or venue using a flash set up......
So are all members responding to your question!
Parallax will do you in, sooner or later.
I plan to shoot a Rolleiflex TLR and have to compensate with that too, but it's fairly easy since the lenses are at the same distance from each other all the time. The RF either has a fixed frame and parallax changes with different distances set on the lens, or it has a parallax-correcting frame (like Leica's) that isn't accurate enough for tight framing. As a result, you will never know for sure where your 35mm negative ends. You might end up with parts of the model missing from the shot.
Even if you would shoot only head-to-toe shots (which would get boring real fast, all you shots would look alike) you would have to account for some space to make sure you get the whole model and as a result your 35mm frames would need enlargements rather quick and quality would decrease.
I agree with the others, either get an SLR so that you can frame tighter and can make better use of the 35mm negative, or switch to a TLR for those nice big negatives.
Or, use the RF for non-posed casual shots and accept the foul-ups. As a result, I would not shoot critical work with an RF.
Cyriljay
Leica Like
I have heard M8 with 50mm Summicron will gives perfect results in a studio for portraiture.
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