whoops FED-2c

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mnmleung

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I absent-mindedly changed shutter speed before winding the film on my FED-2c. I notice the middle but of the shutter speed was turning and I thought that didn't look too good. And then I realised I forgot to wind on.

Does it mean I have stuffed the shutter already? What are the symptoms? What are the remedies? After two days of antenatal classes, I think I suffered a bit from overload ...

Hopefully yours, Ming
 
Although I've never overdone it, I believe that it could be OK on the FED 2's. The general problem is that the slow speed mechanism gets fouled up, but this on later cameras.

Have you tried it since?
 
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You can change the speed safely on a FED 2c, don't worry about it. As Fidget says, it's the ones with slow speed mechanisms that are vulnerable...
 
wolves3012 said:
You can change the speed safely on a FED 2c, don't worry about it. As Fidget says, it's the ones with slow speed mechanisms that are vulnerable...
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I took a photo after my "absent-minded-ness" and the shutter fired as far as I could hear and feel. I still have 33 shots to go on that film. Time for some experiment, I think!

Thank you wolves3012 and fidget!
 
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Hi, I've done that (by error) once or twice on my FED-4 and it did not suffer any damage. But you should not do it often.
 
OOF said:
Hi, I've done that (by error) once or twice on my FED-4 and it did not suffer any damage. But you should not do it often.
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The FED 4 is one of the models with slow speeds and is vulnerable to damage. All FED and Zorki models so equipped are vulnerable. Models with the two-piece dials (where there's a central index mark that rotates with the dial) can be changed without damage.

If you do change it accidentally on a model with slow speeds, here's how you can minimise the chance of damage:

First, set the shutter as far clockwise as you can, no matter what speed that is. Now, wind on VERY gently. If you feel an increase in resistance STOP and reset the shutter speed dial, turning it as before, clockwise again as far as possible. Wind again and keep repeating this as neccessary until the shutter is cocked. Now you'll find it's cocked and probably set to 1/30. Re-set to what you want and away you go, back to normal.

Don't try this just for the sake of it, it's NOT100% guaranteed but it is highly likely to work.
 
wolves3012 said:
Models with the two-piece dials (where there's a central index mark that rotates with the dial) can be changed without damage.
Click to expand...

This is an interesting feature. How do the different dials effect the problem?
 
fidget said:
This is an interesting feature. How do the different dials effect the problem?
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Pretty simply! First, note that there are NO models with 2-piece dials AND slow speeds. Slow-speed models are at risk for a different reason in addition to this one.

Take a Zorki or FED 1 and cock the shutter, then fire it. Notice that the speed dial now points to 1/100 (not quite, but close). In reality, of course, it's still set to 1/500. Now if you try and set it to 1/50 you have to go clockwise, which means that what you are really attempting is 1/500 > B, which is not allowed and will break the limit pin (at best) if you force it. On a 2-piece shutter you won't try it anyway because you are still seeing the true 1/500 setting.

If the camera has slow speeds, the risk is to set the shutter beyond 1 second, which actually shouldn't be possible. If you succeed then the slow-speed escapement will be ruined.

In reality, the way to damage the shutter by these means does involve forcing something. Most of us on RFF are too sensitive to how our camera feels not to notice that we were applying more force than normal. We'd stop and figure something was wrong. The advice on winding first applies more to Mr Average dummy. In the case of 1-piece dials it's pointless setting first, because you will have to guess at the setting until the dial has rotated, i.e. the shutter has been cocked.
 
hi, wolves3012, sorry to be asking Mr Average dummy questions ... what is a two piece dial and what is a one piece dial? I have not opened a camera before. Thank you! Ming

PS I need new glasses ... I just re-read above ...
 
I get it! The two piece dial gives the shutter speed at any time, cocked or uncocked, so there should be no need to change the speed. If you were to change the speed uncocked the same problem may exist as with the one piece dial. This make sense.
You might like to see a pic of the last FSU I bought. It has a two piece dial and slow speeds. Although I don't know how well it works just yet, it needs a CLA.
I wanted this model, the early FED3a (FED3aa?), because it had that dial and the wonderful engraving on the front of the top casing. I must say that the dial is so crowded with numerals that the later speed indication knobs are better (but evidently, not as rare!).
Ming, the dial has the speed "pointer" on the central shaft of the knob, rather than on the body. This means that the speed indication is always shown as the knob and shaft turn together.
 

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fidget said:
I get it! The two piece dial gives the shutter speed at any time, cocked or uncocked, so there should be no need to change the speed. If you were to change the speed uncocked the same problem may exist as with the one piece dial. This make sense.
You might like to see a pic of the last FSU I bought. It has a two piece dial and slow speeds. Although I don't know how well it works just yet, it needs a CLA.
I wanted this model, the early FED3a (FED3aa?), because it had that dial and the wonderful engraving on the front of the top casing. I must say that the dial is so crowded with numerals that the later speed indication knobs are better (but evidently, not as rare!).
Ming, the dial has the speed "pointer" on the central shaft of the knob, rather than on the body. This means that the speed indication is always shown as the knob and shaft turn together.
Click to expand...
Fidget,

Ok so you won that one! Yes, I quite forgot that this FED exists, I have seen a photo of one before. I am curious how the mechanism works and still caters for slow speeds! Can you set slow-speeds uncocked? Presumably they don't actually activate the delay mechanism until you do cock it?
 
Hi Wolves, I was interested in the idea that the two piece dial doesn't suffer the same "set-after-cocking" rule as a one piece dial. As I mentioned, I haven't serviced this one (and other projects have a higher priority), but from what I can see and have read about it, it's just identical to the one piece dial.
Imagine for a moment a one piece dial, drilled to exposed the shaft at the top. This is it! It must have been convenient to engrave the index mark on the shaft, but in operation it is identical to the other version. If it would fit, the single dial could be mounted and the top casing marked with the index and it would be exactly as the single dial version.
IMO an unclocked change to a slow speed is even more likely as it looks cocked.
 
As a matter of interest, the manual for the Zorki 6 states, explicitly, that the shutter speed may be set before or after cocking. The only warning is that you must not turn it between B and 1/500, or vice-versa. Since the Zorki 6 has an almost identical mechanism to the Zorki 2, 2C and 5 and the FED 2 they must be ok too.
 
I finally finished my first roll of film on the FED-2c I bought from Oleg last year. I am happy with it. Here are some photos I took, mostly 1/25 sec with f/2.8 using Kodak HD 200.

http://flickr.com/photos/mnmleung/tags/fed/

I notice a few shots (not scanned yet) have some blue blobs. Might have to take a closer look.

Thanks for all your help with my questions.
 
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