Why are my b&w negs violet?...

[Tati]

brought in my first roll of tri-x 400 120 to be developed...I was surprised to see that the film base itself is this light purple/violet color...I forgot to ask the man who did the processing what he used as a developer, but none of my b&w negs from years ago were ever colored like this...

This was a test roll, a first roll through a 60 year old Walzflex tlr...happy to say, except for me or the camera underexposing a bit, that it's light tight, focuses well, and based off this first attempt seems to give nice quality images...I was shooting in the woods, not much light, these turned out a bit too dark, so i think i need to compensate a bit...

still, will need to test another roll and open aperture a bit or slow down the speed...

thanks for any info on the nature of the 'violet' neg color...and I do think after another roll or two I'm gonna start developing my own negs...just haven't done it in 35 years so wanted these tests to reduce chance of error by having a pro do it...

T

 

[sevo]

That is residual sensitizer dye. Sensitizers often will not fully wash out if you use one of the modern water-conserving wash schemes - but the remaining light purple cast will not matter on a scanner, and will only cost you less than a stop on a enlarger.

That purple dye in particular seems to need a neutral to alkaline wash after the acidic fix to wash out - if your tap water is slightly acid buffered or if you use a alkaline fix, it may entirely fail to dissolve, and you'll be left with deep purple negatives that are barely printable and need another wash with hypo clearer or baking soda to eliminate the stain.

 

[Leigh Youdale]

Tri-X is no problem. Fomapan, Rollei Retro and Efke films have even stronger colouring from bright blue to bright red which mostly clears during development. Need a one-shot developer though!

 

[Tati]

thanks for the explanation guys...I haven't paid much attention to film and processing for a long time and was wondering...but I do think, if i stay with this cam and film, that i'll develop my own after a couple more test rolls...

I may try ilford...film (hp5), developer, etc...keep it simple, easy,...ID-11, etc...or maybe just stick with kodak...

 

[shadowfox]

Tati, I develop using Rodinal and for Tri-X and Plus-X, and every time I pour out the developer, it's deep purple. All that is left on the negatives are the image and a slight gray base.

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

Regular sunlight will clear out the purple dyes. It's fairly reduced even after looking at the negatives on a lightbox for 5-10 minuets.

 

[Leigh Youdale]

I may try ilford...film (hp5), developer, etc...keep it simple, easy,...ID-11, etc...or maybe just stick with kodak...

I've found Rodinal tends to be a bit grainy on 400 ISO films but excellent for <200 ISO. In particular, avoid over agitation or temperatures above 20C
ID-11 is a good all round developer. Check the Ilford ID-11 data sheet for dilutions and times for both Ilford and non-Ilford films - for example with HP5+ they vary their recommendation from use at stock strength for "best overall quality" to 1+3 for maximum sharpness and economy.

 

[Tati]

I've found Rodinal tends to be a bit grainy on 400 ISO films but excellent for <200 ISO. In particular, avoid over agitation or temperatures above 20C
ID-11 is a good all round developer. Check the Ilford ID-11 data sheet for dilutions and times for both Ilford and non-Ilford films - for example with HP5+ they vary their recommendation from use at stock strength for "best overall quality" to 1+3 for maximum sharpness and economy.

thanks for these tips, Leigh...

 

[Daud]

This sounds like the film was not fixed for long enough ? and pre-wash with ‘Hypo-clear’ solution (use Sodium Sulphite and stir a tablespoonful per litre of water, fill tank and agitate for about two mins) prior to washing; this will help in getting rid of the dye.

David.
http://davidalockwood.wordpress.com

 

[Juan Valdenebro]

Hi Tati,

You should try developing at home... It's easy, and gives you control on your photography.

Cheers,

Juan

 

[kzphoto]

In the past, I was always told to fix longer to get rid of the purple base on my negs.

Seems like everyone has a different solution, which is awesome.

 

[KenR]

Fresh fixer, wash aid and lots of water seem to be needed for me to get rid of the purple dye. Except with Rodinal, as mentioned, this seems to get rid of it even more effectively. TF4 left me with soo much purple, that nothing seemed to get rid of it. While everyone says it is harmless, I always think that I've done something wrong when it is more than a trace of color.

 

[dyao]

that is the anti-halation dye. use hypo clearing agent to get rid of it. (after fixing)

 

[nikon_sam]

After washing the film for 5-10 minutes in running water I fill the tank with water that's slightly warmer than what was just in there and let it sit for 10 minutes...dump it out and refill the tank... do this until the purple haze is gone...it saves water...
I found that it's not the Fixer...even with new fixer I can have this haze...
I dump the purple water in my plants outside and they like it...I'm saving the planet when I'm developing film...

 

[Chris101]

In the past, I was always told to fix longer to get rid of the purple base on my negs.

Seems like everyone has a different solution, which is awesome.

That is the correct solution, but yeah, I see your point!