Why Buy Leica Screw Mount Cameras?

Because they're fun? And produce killer images, too.

They're kinda like driving an old manual-shift sports car as opposed to a Lexus--ya gotta do everything yourself, and think about what you're doing, but that's what makes it fun. Makes it much more rewarding when you come back with a great image.

Also, gives you a lot more respect for the Great Old Ones of photography (W. Eugene Smith, HCB, Eisenstadt) who used these things to shoot some of the classic photos of all time.
 
since I am a newbie to the 'barnack experience'
What is the Difference between
the IIIF and the IIIC / pros & cons

recntly saw a RD IIIF ....hmmmmm

thanx in advance for your help
 
Helen,
The main difference is flash synch on the IIIF, and no flash synch on the C. There are other differences too, but I think only the supergeeks can tell you what they are.

There is a "black dial" and "red dial" version of the IIIF. They have different flash synch numbers. I have a IIF (similar to IIIF, without the slow speed dial) red dial. Flash is not so easy with these cameras, because there's a synch delay for 1/25, a separate synch delay for 1/50, and a third synch speed for B. Unless you use these with flash a lot, you'll forget the delay setting numbers. I carry a card with them written down in my case.

Besides the synch times, the shutter mechanism changed between the black and red dials. Some of the black dials only go up to 1/500, the reds go up to 1/1000. The red dials are the later, improved cameras.
 
Thank You Robert & Robert ...LOL
i think I must be MAD, but I might just go for the IIIf RD
w/a summitar

btw...I have not developed the Film yet Robert, but think the 1.1 npkton may be a KEEPER...tres easy to focus with...Cheers & Thank YOU !
 
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I never had one in hand but I can imagine it must be a great match for the collapsible Heliar 50/3.5. Anybody using this combination?

Yes, I bought a Heliar this summer. While primarily using it on the M5, I did run a film through my Barnack with it mounted. A good match, as you guessed. I'll post a camera pron shot of the combination tomorrow if I remember 🙂
 
Thank You Robert & Robert ...LOL
i think I must be MAD, but I might just go for the IIIf RD
w/a summitar

btw...I have not developed the Film yet Robert, but think the 1.1 npkton may be a KEEPER...tres easy to focus with...Cheers & Thank YOU !



Helen ... you have 'gal gas' like no one else here!

And I always thought it was one of those crazy 'guy' things! 😛

That said I have my Leica II sitting in the cupboard for the days when only a screwmount will do! 🙂
 
Small camera with interchangeable lenses. Whats not to like?

They are retro and have panache. Sometimes I look a bit funny carrying a Nikon Pro DSLR and a screwmount 111f. That`s ok, you should see me in the dark loading film into the Leica brass cassetts.

The downside is they are not as fast to operate as an M camera which I can bring to my eye and have focused almost as fast as an AF slr. Hint, always start at infinity and move clockwise. Do not go past and return, simply line up the image and stop.


The other downside is you neeed to use separate finders for lenses other than a 50. So you change your lens and then the finder. Very slow and nasty with gloves.
 
Helen ... you have 'gal gas' like no one else here!

And I always thought it was one of those crazy 'guy' things! 😛

That said I have my Leica II sitting in the cupboard for the days when only a screwmount will do! 🙂

Oh dear , it does seem that way...LOL
I'm actually set in my 'M' body & lenses
but since my OM1 died
I would like another Film body w/ ONE lens
and have been mentally bouncing between another EVIL slr...
either The Om or Nikon FE
or one I have never tried ....the IIIF

must go to a store, Pick them Up & Play ....I'm sure one of them will cast IT'S Spell...🙂

xo to you Keith
 
I'm not a huge fan of the separate viewfinder rangefinder but I can live with it ... what I do love is the look of the screwmounts. If there has been a prettier picture taking device I have yet to see it! 🙂
 
Helen, IMHO the most elegant and practical shooting set-up is a IIc with a vintage 50/3.5 Elmar. The IIc has no slow speed dial in front to catch on things and it's really nothing you ever want to use on a tripod or with flash anyway... and a 1930s Elmar has a very different look, look for good mechanics and let the glass be as-is unless it is horrid. The IIc has a one-piece top, strap lugs, and diopter adjustment, and with Youxin replacing the beam splitter and doing a CLA for not very much money, you'll get a great shooter for years to come.

Loading can be frustrating at first, I like to remove the lens and make sure the film is running smoothly. If you can find one of the spring loaded spools they are nicer, watch the compatibility though.

Pass on the ridiculous 50/3.5 Elmar lenshades but get a couple of cheap push on caps. Get a nice Gordy's wrist strap and if you want, a film trimming template.

Nothing is wrong with the IIIf or Summitar except the Summitar is good enough to pass for a modern lens and the IIIf has a useless (to sane people) flash connection and some extra do-dads on it that annoy me. And they cost more! The IIc and IIIc are the best values, although sometimes the early post war models have lousy cosmetics because Chrome was in short supply. These are the best shooters because the guts are fine and they sell for cheap. You can always put a cameraleather.com Griptac covering on them and ignore the bubbling, brassing Chrome.

The way to use them quickly is to quickly shift left to right to frame and focus and back, they can be focused more accurately than Ms I think, but the f/3.5 gives you a nice margin of error too. They simply are not low-light cameras though.

Another nice combination, albeit more expensive, is a mid-30s black IId with a Nickel Elmar. No strap lugs but very lovely.

I see no point in trying to make them duplicate a modern camera, so I like gritty, grainy film and a real Butch look.

Of course I never wasted my time with such contraptions or owned a dozen over the years, I am just an armchair photographer who likes to speculate ;-)
 
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Thanx Frank...i would never use a flash...gasp

it would be for day shooting...the only thing that concerns me is occasional need of speed/stealth... speed in Catching the moment
so I do not want something to FIDDLY
i had the 50/3.5 Elmar in the past when i was digital/rd1 & m8...LOVELY Crisp rendering and uncoated version it was but I did not like changing the aperture
Tres difficult to turn with your nail that little ring inside near the glass...
 
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Helen, IMHO the most elegant and practical shooting set-up is a IIc with a vintage 50/3.5 Elmar.

Frank,

I would say you make some of my favorite pictures on this site. How did this setup work for the modeling/portrait photography that you do? Thinking about getting an Elmar for my Bessa and most of my work is natural light...
 
Yes, I bought a Heliar this summer. While primarily using it on the M5, I did run a film through my Barnack with it mounted. A good match, as you guessed. I'll post a camera pron shot of the combination tomorrow if I remember 🙂

And here we are, one photo with the 50/3.5 Heliar collapsed, one extended. Please forgive the overall crappiness of the pics, this was very much quick and dirty!

A nice-handling rig this, but I do wish the hood was not screwed directly on to the aperture ring 🙂
 

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If you want a lens almost as small as the 50/3.5 Elmar without the fiddly aperture setting, consider a first-rate specimen of the Summar 50/2.0. Very small, and the aperture isn't fiddly. At f/3.5 and smaller, it's a fine lens. Wide open, it's, well, "distinctive".

Or you can go "cross brand" and get the Canon LTM 50/3.5. Nice aperture ring.
 
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