pismo923
Established
This summer I have made a point to shoot slide film almost exclusively and it makes me think "why did I wait till now". A well exposed slide projected on screen is something to behold. Expensive yes but when I see the colours and sharpness on screen I forget about the cost. The break from scanning and sitting in front of a monitor is worth it. Brings back memories of family nights looking at Kodachrome's.
So far I have been using AGFA Precisa (very nice) and have some Provia waiting for a trip to Vancouver Island. I don't think I will start shooting slides exclusively but will definitely allocate a larger portion of my film budget to E6.
I was a bit concerned that I would have problems with metering as both my cameras are meter less, but incident metering has been generally spot on.
Thanks to this forum, in particular posts by HHPhoto and Taksoni (sorry if I got the names incorrect) I have discovered new enthusiasm for taking photos and am starting to appreciate the quality of the Summicron 50 v3.
So far I have been using AGFA Precisa (very nice) and have some Provia waiting for a trip to Vancouver Island. I don't think I will start shooting slides exclusively but will definitely allocate a larger portion of my film budget to E6.
I was a bit concerned that I would have problems with metering as both my cameras are meter less, but incident metering has been generally spot on.
Thanks to this forum, in particular posts by HHPhoto and Taksoni (sorry if I got the names incorrect) I have discovered new enthusiasm for taking photos and am starting to appreciate the quality of the Summicron 50 v3.
Robert Lai
Well-known
I love E6 also (and Kodachrome before that).
I never know how the colors will turn out with color negative film, but with E6 I don't have to guess.
Try a Leica Pradovit projector with their projection lenses, and the sharpness is amazing. Unfortunately, at that magnification, any camera blur or misfocus becomes painfully obvious.
I never know how the colors will turn out with color negative film, but with E6 I don't have to guess.
Try a Leica Pradovit projector with their projection lenses, and the sharpness is amazing. Unfortunately, at that magnification, any camera blur or misfocus becomes painfully obvious.
B-9
Devin Bro
I use an old Kodak Carousel projector for my Slides, not very sharp or technical, gets hot enough to burn you, and smells like a Volkswagen.
Still get the giggles when I blow the dust off and fire it up.
Have fun!
Still get the giggles when I blow the dust off and fire it up.
Have fun!
Ronald M
Veteran
Looking for a good digital projector I can afford
brbo
Well-known
So far I have been using AGFA Precisa (very nice) and have some Provia waiting for a trip to Vancouver Island.
AgfaPhoto CT Precisa 100 is the same as Fuji Provia 100F.
HHPhoto
Well-known
Hi,
well it is not expensive. It is even cheaper than shooting colour negative film.
Because:
1. With a transparency / slide you already have a finished picture you can look at.
With negative film you need prints. And prints in really good quality do cost, which add up in the end to more than the reversal film and development.
And the slides can be viewed enlarged in excellent quality with an excellent slide loupe (e.g. the ones from Schneider-Kreuznach or Rodenstock), delivering even better quality in comparison to the prints.
Some may say you can scan and look at it at a computer monitor.
Why using a high-tec medium like film (no matter whether reversal or negative film), and then using by far the viewing medium with the absolut lowest quality?
That does not make sense.
LCD monitors are unable to show real halftones, the colours cannot really match the real, natural colours.
And the resolution is ridiculous low with 1 - 1,5 MP.
The same is valid for DSLRs: It does not make any sense to spend huge amounts of money for a 16, 24, 35 MP camera, and then only using the tiny fraction 1 - 1,5 MP of it using the computer monitor for looking at the pictures.
Complete waste of money.
(spending so much money would make sense making bigger prints).
2. If you project your slides, you get pictures as big as you want, as big as your projection screen is.
To make such a big, brillant picture of e.g. 1 meter x 1,50 meter cost you the film and development, and a slide mount.
Here in Germany that is depending on film and mounts in the 50 Cent to 1,20€ region per shot.
Cost for projector and screen are negligible per shot, especially over a longer period.
So you get a 1m x 1,5m brillant picture for such an extremely low amount of money.
A print from a negative (or a digital file) of the same size do cost more than 150€ in good quality. And you did not get the brillance and sharpness from the print you get with an excellent projection lens.
So the difference in cost is extreme in favour of slides. Slides are ridiculous cheap in comparison.
Absolutely!
And with slide projection with a very good slide projector with an excellent lens (they can be bought at extremely attractive, low prices)
you can enjoy by far the best quality for big enlargements.
You cannot get that colour brillance, sharpness and resolution with prints (I've tested that lots of times).
And digital projection has worse colour reproduction and extremely low resolution. At insane prices.
It cannot compete at all with slide projection.
You will not regret it.
Provia 100F, CT Precisa (which is indeed cut from Provia master rolls, so to speak the 'amateur version' of Provia), Velvia 50 and velvia 100 are outstanding films.
Exposing slides is easy.I've started shooting slides when I was 12 years old, with normal Nikon with center-weigted metering.
Never had any problems with exposure.
Now with my Nikon F6 I get 99,8% perfectly exposed slides.
And the 0,2% rest is not completely off, but still usable.
Don't forget: Millions of photographers with much more simple gear as we have today had shot billions of well exposed slides for decades.
Nice to hear my explanations have helped you.
I wish you much joy using colour reversal film!
Cheers, Jan
This summer I have made a point to shoot slide film almost exclusively and it makes me think "why did I wait till now". A well exposed slide projected on screen is something to behold. Expensive yes but when I see the colours and sharpness on screen I forget about the cost.
well it is not expensive. It is even cheaper than shooting colour negative film.
Because:
1. With a transparency / slide you already have a finished picture you can look at.
With negative film you need prints. And prints in really good quality do cost, which add up in the end to more than the reversal film and development.
And the slides can be viewed enlarged in excellent quality with an excellent slide loupe (e.g. the ones from Schneider-Kreuznach or Rodenstock), delivering even better quality in comparison to the prints.
Some may say you can scan and look at it at a computer monitor.
Why using a high-tec medium like film (no matter whether reversal or negative film), and then using by far the viewing medium with the absolut lowest quality?
That does not make sense.
LCD monitors are unable to show real halftones, the colours cannot really match the real, natural colours.
And the resolution is ridiculous low with 1 - 1,5 MP.
The same is valid for DSLRs: It does not make any sense to spend huge amounts of money for a 16, 24, 35 MP camera, and then only using the tiny fraction 1 - 1,5 MP of it using the computer monitor for looking at the pictures.
Complete waste of money.
(spending so much money would make sense making bigger prints).
2. If you project your slides, you get pictures as big as you want, as big as your projection screen is.
To make such a big, brillant picture of e.g. 1 meter x 1,50 meter cost you the film and development, and a slide mount.
Here in Germany that is depending on film and mounts in the 50 Cent to 1,20€ region per shot.
Cost for projector and screen are negligible per shot, especially over a longer period.
So you get a 1m x 1,5m brillant picture for such an extremely low amount of money.
A print from a negative (or a digital file) of the same size do cost more than 150€ in good quality. And you did not get the brillance and sharpness from the print you get with an excellent projection lens.
So the difference in cost is extreme in favour of slides. Slides are ridiculous cheap in comparison.
The break from scanning and sitting in front of a monitor is worth it. Brings back memories of family nights looking at Kodachrome's.
Absolutely!
And with slide projection with a very good slide projector with an excellent lens (they can be bought at extremely attractive, low prices)
you can enjoy by far the best quality for big enlargements.
You cannot get that colour brillance, sharpness and resolution with prints (I've tested that lots of times).
And digital projection has worse colour reproduction and extremely low resolution. At insane prices.
It cannot compete at all with slide projection.
So far I have been using AGFA Precisa (very nice) and have some Provia waiting for a trip to Vancouver Island. I don't think I will start shooting slides exclusively but will definitely allocate a larger portion of my film budget to E6.
You will not regret it.
Provia 100F, CT Precisa (which is indeed cut from Provia master rolls, so to speak the 'amateur version' of Provia), Velvia 50 and velvia 100 are outstanding films.
I was a bit concerned that I would have problems with metering as both my cameras are meter less, but incident metering has been generally spot on.
Exposing slides is easy.I've started shooting slides when I was 12 years old, with normal Nikon with center-weigted metering.
Never had any problems with exposure.
Now with my Nikon F6 I get 99,8% perfectly exposed slides.
And the 0,2% rest is not completely off, but still usable.
Don't forget: Millions of photographers with much more simple gear as we have today had shot billions of well exposed slides for decades.
Thanks to this forum, in particular posts by HHPhoto and Taksoni (sorry if I got the names incorrect) I have discovered new enthusiasm for taking photos and am starting to appreciate the quality of the Summicron 50 v3.
Nice to hear my explanations have helped you.
I wish you much joy using colour reversal film!
Cheers, Jan
pismo923
Established
I agree on all fronts Jan. Just got my slides back from my trip to Vancouver Island and for the most part very pleased. However, on one day in particular the lighting was very harsh i.e. cloudy but very bright sky portraits taken by the ocean resulted in significant loss of detail in the background. I used a hand held meter in both reflected and incident mode, so while my subjects face was properly exposed the background was too light. Any tips as to how to compensate for this with slide film?
FrankS
Registered User
I agree on all fronts Jan. Just got my slides back from my trip to Vancouver Island and for the most part very pleased. However, on one day in particular the lighting was very harsh i.e. cloudy but very bright sky portraits taken by the ocean resulted in significant loss of detail in the background. I used a hand held meter in both reflected and incident mode, so while my subjects face was properly exposed the background was too light. Any tips as to how to compensate for this with slide film?
Seek out different lighting. Slide film is inherently more contrasty/less able to record a broad range of tones with detail.
segedi
RFicianado
Have you seen 6x6/7/9 slides yet? Simply awesome.
Learn to take advantage of the background detail loss - it is just background.
Learn to take advantage of the background detail loss - it is just background.
Vics
Veteran
...and therein lies the rub. In my Kodachrome days, I found myself looking for subjects in which all the tonal values were equal. To solve the problem, I used two bodies, one for chromes and one C-41 (Kodak Royal Gold 100 was my fave).Seek out different lighting. Slide film is inherently more contrasty/less able to record a broad range of tones with detail.
HHPhoto
Well-known
I agree on all fronts Jan. Just got my slides back from my trip to Vancouver Island and for the most part very pleased. However, on one day in particular the lighting was very harsh i.e. cloudy but very bright sky portraits taken by the ocean resulted in significant loss of detail in the background. I used a hand held meter in both reflected and incident mode, so while my subjects face was properly exposed the background was too light. Any tips as to how to compensate for this with slide film?
Oh yes, the solution is easy and gives you excellent results. Even in very complicated lighting situations with high contrast of 15 stops or more.
Just use what digital and colour negative photographers use to manage high contrast situations, especially outdoor portraits:
Fill-in flash with a compact flash light.
And make a manual - 1 or - 1 1/3 (or - 1 2/3; it is also a bit up to your personal taste and reference) correction on the TTL flash metering.
The results of this technique are awesome: The built-in meter (matrix-metering in modern cameras is perfect for this) is metering the correct exposure for the far background.
And the (corrected) fill-in flash in combination with the matrix metering is delivering correct exposure for the foreground (the face of the persons you have portrayd).
I am mostly using my Nikon F6 with the SB-800 compact flash for that:
The results with colour reversal film are perfect: Excellent exposure with both shadow and highlight detail even in the highest contrast scenes. Because of the manuel flash correction the foreground looks absolutely natural. You mostly even don't realise that a flash was used.
Wonderful technique and extremely easy to use.
With the F6 I even have FP flash synchronisation with shutter speeds from 1/250s to 1/8000s.
So I can use open aperture for small depth of field, even have the perfect light for the foreground (via fill-in flash), and the background is also exposed correctly.
It is just a joy to use.
The SB-800 is quite small small and compact, so no problem having it in the camera bag.
In the fill-in flash mode the flash works up to more than 20 meters even with ISO 100 film.
High contrast scenes? No problem with this technique (no matter whether you are using slide film, negative film or digital).
Cheers, Jan
Spanik
Well-known
I don't use colour negative film, only slides and a tiny bit of b&w. Yep, nothing beats a projected slide. Missing slides is what drove me back to film. And a 6x4.5 or 6x6 slide is beautifull. Then you have 6x9 but I have no idea how to project that. And this holiday I did some 6x17 on Velvia 50. Jawdropping...
As the film itself is the result it means you have to work at your exposure and composition at the moment itself. No means to recover in post. But the rewards!
As the film itself is the result it means you have to work at your exposure and composition at the moment itself. No means to recover in post. But the rewards!
HHPhoto
Well-known
I don't use colour negative film, only slides and a tiny bit of b&w. Yep, nothing beats a projected slide. Missing slides is what drove me back to film. And a 6x4.5 or 6x6 slide is beautifull. Then you have 6x9 but I have no idea how to project that. And this holiday I did some 6x17 on Velvia 50. Jawdropping...
6x9 slide projection?
No problem at all.
Don't forget, the Germans produce everything you need for slide projection
Here you go: New top-notch quality slide projector for medium format up to 6x9!!
http://www.jensen-diaprojektoren.de/index.php/de/
This company is also making the 6x8 and 6x9 slide mounts.
Cheers, Jan
Skiff
Well-known
Oh yes, the solution is easy and gives you excellent results. Even in very complicated lighting situations with high contrast of 15 stops or more.
Just use what digital and colour negative photographers use to manage high contrast situations, especially outdoor portraits:
Fill-in flash with a compact flash light.
And make a manual - 1 or - 1 1/3 (or - 1 2/3; it is also a bit up to your personal taste and reference) correction on the TTL flash metering.
The results of this technique are awesome: The built-in meter (matrix-metering in modern cameras is perfect for this) is metering the correct exposure for the far background.
And the (corrected) fill-in flash in combination with the matrix metering is delivering correct exposure for the foreground (the face of the persons you have portrayd).
I am mostly using my Nikon F6 with the SB-800 compact flash for that:
The results with colour reversal film are perfect: Excellent exposure with both shadow and highlight detail even in the highest contrast scenes. Because of the manuel flash correction the foreground looks absolutely natural. You mostly even don't realise that a flash was used.
Wonderful technique and extremely easy to use.
With the F6 I even have FP flash synchronisation with shutter speeds from 1/250s to 1/8000s.
So I can use open aperture for small depth of field, even have the perfect light for the foreground (via fill-in flash), and the background is also exposed correctly.
It is just a joy to use.
The SB-800 is quite small small and compact, so no problem having it in the camera bag.
In the fill-in flash mode the flash works up to more than 20 meters even with ISO 100 film.
High contrast scenes? No problem with this technique (no matter whether you are using slide film, negative film or digital).
Cheers, Jan
+1 for the fill-in flash technique.
I can highly recommend it!
It works perfectly.
I've used it in the past with my Nikon F90X, F100 and F80.
Now I am using the unsurpassed Nikon F6 with SB-800 or Metz MZ 54 compact flashlight as well.
Just brillant combinations.
A dream to use, the results are amazing.
Friends of mine are using the fill-in flash technique in high-contrast situations with their Dynax 7 and 9.
Other friends with their Canon EOS 1n and 1V, also with the EOS 3.
My brother is successful using it with his Canon EOS 33 V.
You can indeed finetune the flash so exact that you don't see in the final picture that the light is coming from a flash.
It looks absolutely natural.
Reversal film in very high contrast scenes? No problem at all with this technique!
Fernando2
Well-known
6x7 slide (Velvia50). That's why I love film. 
Fernando


Fernando
pagpow
Well-known
6x9 slide projection?
No problem at all.
Don't forget, the Germans produce everything you need for slide projection
Here you go: New top-notch quality slide projector for medium format up to 6x9!!
http://www.jensen-diaprojektoren.de/index.php/de/
This company is also making the 6x8 and 6x9 slide mounts.
Cheers, Jan
Jan,
Thanks for this link. Any notion of the price? I couldn't find it.
and now we return you to our regularly scheduled program.
Thanks.
Giorgio
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
^ I Tried The Link To The German Projector Company, Home Page Comes Up But That's Pretty Well It. Any Other Suggestions? Regard Peters,
HHPhoto
Well-known
You can indeed finetune the flash so exact that you don't see in the final picture that the light is coming from a flash.
It looks absolutely natural.
Reversal film in very high contrast scenes? No problem at all with this technique!
Exactly!
It is by far one of the best and most powerful photographic techniques.
Cheers, Jan
HHPhoto
Well-known
Jan,
Thanks for this link. Any notion of the price? I couldn't find it.
Hi Giorgio,
I think it is in the range of the Götschmann projectors.
Best is to send a email and ask, and tell them what you want.
AFAIK they build the projector according to your wishes.
Cheers, Jan
Last edited:
Spanik
Well-known
Jan,
Thanks for this link. Any notion of the price? I couldn't find it.
and now we return you to our regularly scheduled program.
Thanks.
Giorgio
I'm afraid this is going to be in the "if you have to ask you can't afford it" territory. Think I stay with my P11.
I'll add something done in Provia 400X

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