chowpi
Member
Dear all,
I recently got an used R-d1, i have the CV21mm, Summicron 40mm C, 35mm Summaron, 50 J8. Just want to see if i should get something between 21mm and 35mm which I would like to have a lens like the 35mm after the crop factor. Any suggestion? Also would like to have comments on whether it has vignetting problem. tks.
I recently got an used R-d1, i have the CV21mm, Summicron 40mm C, 35mm Summaron, 50 J8. Just want to see if i should get something between 21mm and 35mm which I would like to have a lens like the 35mm after the crop factor. Any suggestion? Also would like to have comments on whether it has vignetting problem. tks.
back alley
IMAGES
28 is very nice on the rd1, with crop factor you get a 43mm fov.
but i would go wider and get a cv 15. small, sharp, vignettes a little (i like the look) and you can use it like a point and shoot with hyper focal focussing. it's like a 21 on a full frame.
great combo with the rd1.
but i would go wider and get a cv 15. small, sharp, vignettes a little (i like the look) and you can use it like a point and shoot with hyper focal focussing. it's like a 21 on a full frame.
great combo with the rd1.
pagpow
Well-known
OP asked about a 35mm equivalent. 21mm real is between 32 and 33 equivalent -- I would shoot it and see if that does it for him.
But if the lens is going to be his go to lens -- there's a lot to be said for 25mm or 28mm and no aux VF.
back alley, I am surprised, shocked that you would recommend a 15mm.
kermaier
Well-known
A 28mm is really nice on the R-D1. My favorite is the M-Rokkor 28/2.8, but a more practical choice would be the CV 28/3.5 Skopar (if you can find one), which is very sharp and beautifully made. The Skopar does show noticeable light fall-off in the corners on the R-D1, but I don't mind it - I kind of like the look. I haven't used the 28/1.9, but by most accounts it's an outstanding lens (though several times larger than the Skopar).
I also like my Canon 25/3.5 on the R-D1, but those aren't easy to come by. I have the CV 25/4 Skopar P, but f/4 crosses over to the slow side for me, and I'm going to sell it. Maybe a ZM 25/2.8 is in my future?
Note that the exaggerated perspective of the 25mm and 21mm is still very much present, even with the crop factor. So, while you may approximate the FoV of a 35mm lens, the images still will look much "wider" than a real 35mm.
Ari
I also like my Canon 25/3.5 on the R-D1, but those aren't easy to come by. I have the CV 25/4 Skopar P, but f/4 crosses over to the slow side for me, and I'm going to sell it. Maybe a ZM 25/2.8 is in my future?
Note that the exaggerated perspective of the 25mm and 21mm is still very much present, even with the crop factor. So, while you may approximate the FoV of a 35mm lens, the images still will look much "wider" than a real 35mm.
Ari
chowpi
Member
Thank you all. Kermaier, I have thought about the rokkor 28mm, any good experience on it? Does your copy has white dot, any effect on photo quality? Will the white dot get worst?
"Note that the exaggerated perspective of the 25mm and 21mm is still very much present, even with the crop factor. Any vignetting like the CV28 f3.5? So, while you may approximate the FoV of a 35mm lens, the images still will look much "wider" than a real 35mm. " I read about similar comment on other thread which I don't quite understand. Doesn't 28mm be 42mm after the crop factor? Any further explanation? Many thanks.
Heard a lot good comments on CV28 f3.5, how does it compared to Canon LTM 28mm f2.8 or f3.5?
many thanks all.
"Note that the exaggerated perspective of the 25mm and 21mm is still very much present, even with the crop factor. Any vignetting like the CV28 f3.5? So, while you may approximate the FoV of a 35mm lens, the images still will look much "wider" than a real 35mm. " I read about similar comment on other thread which I don't quite understand. Doesn't 28mm be 42mm after the crop factor? Any further explanation? Many thanks.
Heard a lot good comments on CV28 f3.5, how does it compared to Canon LTM 28mm f2.8 or f3.5?
many thanks all.
kermaier
Well-known
I love the Rokkor. It's great wide open, nice and sharp, good contrast but not harsh, the most compact 28/2.8 other than the Canon. Mine had a coating problem similar in nature to the typical white spots. I had it cleaned by FocalPoint (not cheap!) and it's been fine ever since. There are a few threads on the white spot issue. As long as the spots stay on the edges of the front element it doesn't affect the pictures, but it can worsen and spread into the light path.
I'm sure you've seen how a wide angle lens emphasizes objects in the foreground, while making the background seem farther away than it really is. (The inverse of the telephoto compression effect.) So, for example, a close-in frontal portrait with a 25mm often makes the subject's nose look too big. This spacial perspective effect is a property of the lens/focal length, and is not changed by the crop factor of the sensor (or the film format, for that matter).
The CV is sharper and more contrasty than the Canons, and more flare resistant. My Canon 28/3.5 is sharper and contrastier than my Canon 28/2.8 - but there's considerable sample variation when it comes to lenses 50-60 years old. YM, as they say, MV.
Ari
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LCT
ex-newbie
28 is a must have IMO. Will give you the closest feeling of 35 with FF bodies. And there is a 28mm frame in the R-D1 VF of course. I have 3 of them: Summicron 28/2, Elmarit asph 28/2.8 and M-Rokkor 28/2.8. All vignette more or less on the R-D1 but it is easy to adjust in PP. My favorite is the 'Cron, followed by the Elmarit and the Rokkor. I have a 'Cron 40 as well and it makes a fine combo with the Rokkor. Beware of white spots into the latter though. They don't alter the image quality if they don't reach the glass so the lesser the better.
jonwo
Member
Would a Jupiter 12 35mm f/2.8 works on a RD-1?
Would a Jupiter 12 35mm f/2.8 works on a RD-1?
This guy does put one on and seems no one doubt if it would not work with RD-1, wouldn't it?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sikaheimo/2743239350/
Would a Jupiter 12 35mm f/2.8 works on a RD-1?
This guy does put one on and seems no one doubt if it would not work with RD-1, wouldn't it?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sikaheimo/2743239350/
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menos
Veteran
When the R-D1 was my only DRF, I stated to use the 35 Cron ASPH a lot and found, that it doesn't work well with the R-D1 (strange aberrations - likely due to sensor/lens incompatibility - causing flare and very blurry corners).
When I got a nice deal on a 28 Cron ASPH, I stopped shooting film - this is THE combo, when using a R-D1 and wanting something slightly more open than a 50mm.
I suppose the CV 28 1.9 is similarly good.
The 28 Cron gives a slight (but easy to correct) barrel distortion and very slight (but nice) fall off in the corners - it is of course super sharp, can be shot violently wide open directly into bright light sources and just fit's the R-D1 best.
When I got a nice deal on a 28 Cron ASPH, I stopped shooting film - this is THE combo, when using a R-D1 and wanting something slightly more open than a 50mm.
I suppose the CV 28 1.9 is similarly good.
The 28 Cron gives a slight (but easy to correct) barrel distortion and very slight (but nice) fall off in the corners - it is of course super sharp, can be shot violently wide open directly into bright light sources and just fit's the R-D1 best.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
CV 25mm f/4 (discontinued, but available used) would give about a 38mm equivalent at a reasonable price. you could use it with a CV 35mm aux. finder and get a very close match to the FOV. It will also be nice and compact on the R-D1. Not RF coupled (the one I have is not), but scale-focusing works well with such a short lens. It is in LTM mount, so needs an adapter. The Leica 24mm ASPH would come even closer at 36mm equivalent, though at a much higher price; and it's bulkier.
A 28mm is also a good idea, if it will cover the desired FOV, and if you can see the 28mm framelines in your finder. But it will be harder to obtain an aux. finder in the necessary 42mm equivalent, if needed.
A 28mm is also a good idea, if it will cover the desired FOV, and if you can see the 28mm framelines in your finder. But it will be harder to obtain an aux. finder in the necessary 42mm equivalent, if needed.
menos
Veteran
Good point - I don't wear glasses and the 28mm frame is clearly and comfortable visible - right or left eye - easier than the 28mm frame on a Leica 0.72 film body.