Human Relations [fingers in eyes]
Mortensen began his career as a Hollywood studio photographer, turning out glamour portraits of stars such as Clara Bow and Jean Harlow. In the early 1930s he established a photography school in Laguna Beach, where he refined and promoted his own aesthetic—an eccentric blend of late Pictorialism, Surrealism, and Hollywood kitsch. Restlessly inventive in the darkroom, he employed a wide variety of techniques, including combination printing, heavy retouching, and physical and chemical abrasion of the negative. At times, his use of textured printing screens gave his photographs the appearance of etchings or lithographs, as in this audaciously grotesque picture, which was prompted, according the artist, by an overcharged long-distance telephone bill.
Jean Harlow
By the time this photograph was made in the 1920s, Pictorialism--with its fuzzy contours and overt print manipulation--had fallen out of favor among avant-garde photographers, who insisted instead on "straight photography" as the purest expression of their medium. Mortensen, rejected by modernists as hopelessly retrograde, steadfastly practiced pictorialist techniques for the duration of his career, maintaining Steichen's position of twenty years earlier--that frank artifice in photographs was key to their success as works of art.
In this portrait of Jean Harlow, the starlet lolls in a timeless sphere of softened forms and abstracted space. For the Hollywood portrait, at least, Mortensen's idealizing approach had mass appeal.