X-pro1 "M60" edition
- Thread starter olakiril
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vteknical
Newbie
Interesting. I have the same lens/camera setup. Curious why you covered the controls/lcd?
olakiril
Well-known
I did not cover them, I removed them 🙂
It was more about aesthetics than anything else really.
But in practice not having the ability to playback an image, even if I rarely do it, brings up the same feelings that I had with film.
calebarchie
Established
What the hell 😀
gavinlg
Veteran
I'm impressed. I wouldn't want to shoot it, but I'm impressed.
GaryLH
Veteran
Out of curiosity what did u set the ISO value to, now that u don't have a way to change it.. or anything else in the menu system for that matter. Nice job btw.
Gary
Gary
olakiril
Well-known
Thanks, Fn button and thumb wheel are still working 😉
But most of the time it is set to auto with 6400 max anyways.
I rewired the cable that connected the buttons in the back of the camera to the side port for the HDMI/USB so when I need to access the menu I can still plug in the board with the buttons...
jarski
Veteran
Yes nice job indeed. Was it difficult and what are risks of having it a brick instead of still working camera?
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
I am the infamous MP Classique guy to those who know (I took the entire metering circuit, battery box, ISO dial off of MP, made the shutter release step-less and made an M-A before there was M-A) so I totally admire all sorts of project cameras and daredevils. 😀
Well done. Now I want to see X-Pro Monochrom 😉
Well done. Now I want to see X-Pro Monochrom 😉
Leica All Day
Veteran
I remember you doing that and all the comments that you got. I salute you my friend, I thought tit was awesome that you did that.
As far Olakiril doing it to his X-pro1, I think it looks cool.
cheers, michael
willie_901
Veteran
Shooting raw with a ISO psuedo-invariant camera means there is no significant IQ loss performing all global brightening in post-production rendering. Typically one would just leave ISO at 200 and set the shutter time an aperture as required.
On the X-Pro 1 I found in low light situations (where in-camera JPEGs would require ISO 1600) ISO 400 produced a modestly higher signal-to-noise ratio in shadow regions.
I leave the X-T1 and X100T at base ISO (200).
While I have not covered my X100T or X-T1's LCD and controls, I always almost just leave ISO at 200, set the EVF for "PREVIW EXPOSURE IN MANUAL MODE = OFF".
Besides the selecting the appropriate shutter time and aperture, all I have to worry about is clipping the sensor. With this technique clipping the ADC when the sensor is under exposed but ISO is too high is never a worry.
Hsg
who dares wins
I empathize with loathing the camera LCDs, but this operation was a bridge too far.
calebarchie
Established
Next up: M9!
shawn
Veteran
olakiril
Well-known
Thanks guys.
It also crossed my mind but
1. I could not find a method that worked reliably.
2. by scrapping the sensor I would remove all the micro-lenses and at least it would not improve the sensitivity
3. Fuji probably does some preprocessing of the x-trans files even with raw which could make the photos look funky...
Thanks, I wasn't sure either but I got the camera for $300 so not too much to lose for something that I always craved.
Removing the electronics was the easiest part. My only worry was 1. if the camera needs them to start operation normally 2. if I accidentally press the view mode button, the camera locks. I tested both before proceeding ...
The hardest part is modding the back. It requires a lot of drilling / epoxy and relative precision so it can fit back to the body. I had to remove the protruding LCD back, trim all the borders of the buttons, and finally fill in all the holes ... The back is a thick alloy that is hard but relatively easy to break, so I guess this is the only dangerous part.
Also I wasn't sure about the re-skinning since I had never done it before, but it worked alright. Got the glue and skin from hobby-nexus at ebay.
Exactly. But in my case I rarely have to change any functions anyways. Again, I can still use the removed buttons externally if I have to change the lens framelines or anything that might come up.
It crossed my mind but bricking a $2200 camera wouldn't be something that my wife would like.
It also crossed my mind but
1. I could not find a method that worked reliably.
2. by scrapping the sensor I would remove all the micro-lenses and at least it would not improve the sensitivity
3. Fuji probably does some preprocessing of the x-trans files even with raw which could make the photos look funky...
Thanks, I wasn't sure either but I got the camera for $300 so not too much to lose for something that I always craved.
Removing the electronics was the easiest part. My only worry was 1. if the camera needs them to start operation normally 2. if I accidentally press the view mode button, the camera locks. I tested both before proceeding ...
The hardest part is modding the back. It requires a lot of drilling / epoxy and relative precision so it can fit back to the body. I had to remove the protruding LCD back, trim all the borders of the buttons, and finally fill in all the holes ... The back is a thick alloy that is hard but relatively easy to break, so I guess this is the only dangerous part.
Also I wasn't sure about the re-skinning since I had never done it before, but it worked alright. Got the glue and skin from hobby-nexus at ebay.
Exactly. But in my case I rarely have to change any functions anyways. Again, I can still use the removed buttons externally if I have to change the lens framelines or anything that might come up.
It crossed my mind but bricking a $2200 camera wouldn't be something that my wife would like.
Hsg
who dares wins
The LCD makes the camera a fragile device, its like a chink in the armor and a big one at that.
So I can identify with the OP; however, taking away parts from a camera is never a good idea.
One can stick a LCD protector on a LCD and then put tape on it.
olakiril
Well-known
olakiril
Well-known
Thanks!
I also like "personalizing" the cameras to my needs...
For quite some time I was thinking of marrying a Nikon FE with a sony nex (no LCD of course), but I don't have access to precision machining or the time to do it yet.
The idea is a digital FE but with the advantage that the viewfinder will offer greater viewing distances than what the sensor would capture, similar to the rangefinder cameras.
shawn
Veteran
Understood. That is nice you can plug in the buttons but I'd rather have them still on the body. Just thinking of shooting things like metering mode, DR Mode (through DR Auto does work well), Film simulation (I shoot JPEG often), WB and the ability to adjust auto ISO. But I shoot multiple lenses so some of those settings are a little lens specific. Could maybe get almost all the way there with a couple of custom settings but with only the function button you probably can't change custom settings and ISO.
Still, it is a daring project and I understand where you are coming from.
Shawn
Huss
Veteran
Now do this with the world's best selling camera - the iPhone 6s