peripatetic
Well-known
Right so this is a difficult one. Maybe the most difficult set of choices to make.
First of all. We're all using the OVF right? In standard display mode the Autofocus distance indicator along the bottom of the VF overlay is shown with a white bar to show DOF. This is absolutely brilliant. If you manage to accidentally turn it off, then go back in an turn it on again.
Focus Mode is selected via the focus selector button on the side of the camera.
I haven't even tried AF-C. (Well I did turn it on by accident once, but it eats the battery apparently.) It might work. Frankly I'd be amazed. I'm pretty much of the opinion that anything short of the very top end DSLRs are a bit rubbish. Canon 1D series - brilliant! Nikon D3 series - awesome! Canon 7D or Nikon D300/D700 - well maybe. Anything else - forget it.
So what's left? AF-S single focus or MF manual focus. I've played around with them both a fair bit now. AF-S is okay. Plain old MF using the ring is good where you have nice light and can stop down a bit for zone focussing. The throw on the MF ring appears to be tuned for Macro or something. You have to do a LOT of rotation at closer distances. This makes it a lot slower at close distances than using a RF camera. When you do have things set for a good distance however shooting is instant and completely quiet. This is awesome for discreet event or crowd shooting. Note that you can set the ring to turn either way to cater for both the Canon and Nikon DSLR users.
And then it came to my attention (I'm a bit slow) that pressing the AFL/AEL button on the back of the camera with your thumb when in MF mode will actually kick in the AF. You can then fine tune (or not) with the focus ring. I haven't yet played around with the Setup menu -> FOCUS CHECK option. But I do find it difficult to hit the OK button when I'm looking at the back of the camera, never mind with my eye to the viewfinder, so I expect it to be of limited utility, and unlikely to be usable in a time-limited situation. The only irritation is that it doesn't light up the focus area with green to give focus confirmation, so you have to keep an eye on the distance meter.
Focus Frame selection.
Okay first off: Multi-mode ... what's that about? Just focus on the highest contrast thing you can find in the frame. The mind boggles.
Then secondly Area-mode + selecting an off-centre focus area - meh, this just seems completely pointless. This is not something I will ever be able to do in the field. Lots of button pressing and scrolling and fiddling, meantime you've missed half-a-dozen moments, just because just because you're worried about hypercritical focussing with a 23mm lens? I don't think so. Maybe for Macro. So no, it's centre-focus then recompose.
Final recommendation?
1. OVF.
2. Make sure your distance scale and focus distance is showing.
3. MF mode.
4. Use AFL/AEL button to focus and recompose. Look for high-contrast objects at the right distances.
5. Don't subsequently refocus unless your distance to subject has changed significantly.
Now I'm not saying it's easy. And it's not at all on par with even a semi-pro DSLR autofocus capability (like my 5DMkII), in fact it's probably not even close to most entry-level DSLRs. However, for taking pictures of people at moderate distances it sure is a lot faster than I can manage with my Zeiss Ikon RF. I know some people can focus demon-fast with their Leicas. Good for them! If I can get a picture focussed with my RF in less than 3 seconds or so I'm jumping up and down with happiness inside. After only a few hours really using this camera I'm getting pretty good focus results at a reasonable speed I think. Sports-shooting DSLR users are going to think it's rubbish, but RF users might like it rather a lot. In particular RF aficionados who can fine-tune their focus as the subject changes distance will get very good mileage out of this.
And when you have a subject that's not moving much it's quite a revelation to be able to shoot at 5fps completely silently! If the subject isn't looking at you they won't. Try that with a DSLR. People feel like they are being machine-gunned and ALWAYS turn to look at you. So when you're working close to people this AF system might have some significant real-world advantages over DSLR AF, where you sometimes just get their backs as they run away from you, or hostile glances, anyway you get the point.
I'm definitely getting more comfortable with the X100 now.
Also this morning I had my X100 round my neck and my 5D2 with telephoto slung off my shoulder. No trouble at all switching between the two.
This post replicated with a few more X100 pics at my blog post.
First of all. We're all using the OVF right? In standard display mode the Autofocus distance indicator along the bottom of the VF overlay is shown with a white bar to show DOF. This is absolutely brilliant. If you manage to accidentally turn it off, then go back in an turn it on again.
Focus Mode is selected via the focus selector button on the side of the camera.
I haven't even tried AF-C. (Well I did turn it on by accident once, but it eats the battery apparently.) It might work. Frankly I'd be amazed. I'm pretty much of the opinion that anything short of the very top end DSLRs are a bit rubbish. Canon 1D series - brilliant! Nikon D3 series - awesome! Canon 7D or Nikon D300/D700 - well maybe. Anything else - forget it.
So what's left? AF-S single focus or MF manual focus. I've played around with them both a fair bit now. AF-S is okay. Plain old MF using the ring is good where you have nice light and can stop down a bit for zone focussing. The throw on the MF ring appears to be tuned for Macro or something. You have to do a LOT of rotation at closer distances. This makes it a lot slower at close distances than using a RF camera. When you do have things set for a good distance however shooting is instant and completely quiet. This is awesome for discreet event or crowd shooting. Note that you can set the ring to turn either way to cater for both the Canon and Nikon DSLR users.
And then it came to my attention (I'm a bit slow) that pressing the AFL/AEL button on the back of the camera with your thumb when in MF mode will actually kick in the AF. You can then fine tune (or not) with the focus ring. I haven't yet played around with the Setup menu -> FOCUS CHECK option. But I do find it difficult to hit the OK button when I'm looking at the back of the camera, never mind with my eye to the viewfinder, so I expect it to be of limited utility, and unlikely to be usable in a time-limited situation. The only irritation is that it doesn't light up the focus area with green to give focus confirmation, so you have to keep an eye on the distance meter.
Focus Frame selection.
Okay first off: Multi-mode ... what's that about? Just focus on the highest contrast thing you can find in the frame. The mind boggles.
Then secondly Area-mode + selecting an off-centre focus area - meh, this just seems completely pointless. This is not something I will ever be able to do in the field. Lots of button pressing and scrolling and fiddling, meantime you've missed half-a-dozen moments, just because just because you're worried about hypercritical focussing with a 23mm lens? I don't think so. Maybe for Macro. So no, it's centre-focus then recompose.
Final recommendation?
1. OVF.
2. Make sure your distance scale and focus distance is showing.
3. MF mode.
4. Use AFL/AEL button to focus and recompose. Look for high-contrast objects at the right distances.
5. Don't subsequently refocus unless your distance to subject has changed significantly.
Now I'm not saying it's easy. And it's not at all on par with even a semi-pro DSLR autofocus capability (like my 5DMkII), in fact it's probably not even close to most entry-level DSLRs. However, for taking pictures of people at moderate distances it sure is a lot faster than I can manage with my Zeiss Ikon RF. I know some people can focus demon-fast with their Leicas. Good for them! If I can get a picture focussed with my RF in less than 3 seconds or so I'm jumping up and down with happiness inside. After only a few hours really using this camera I'm getting pretty good focus results at a reasonable speed I think. Sports-shooting DSLR users are going to think it's rubbish, but RF users might like it rather a lot. In particular RF aficionados who can fine-tune their focus as the subject changes distance will get very good mileage out of this.
And when you have a subject that's not moving much it's quite a revelation to be able to shoot at 5fps completely silently! If the subject isn't looking at you they won't. Try that with a DSLR. People feel like they are being machine-gunned and ALWAYS turn to look at you. So when you're working close to people this AF system might have some significant real-world advantages over DSLR AF, where you sometimes just get their backs as they run away from you, or hostile glances, anyway you get the point.
I'm definitely getting more comfortable with the X100 now.
Also this morning I had my X100 round my neck and my 5D2 with telephoto slung off my shoulder. No trouble at all switching between the two.
This post replicated with a few more X100 pics at my blog post.
yanidel
Well-known
Interesting write-up, thanks.
The manual focus fiddling is exactly why I feel the X100 is not good enough for street photography. Nothing beats a mechanical focus ring in speed and I feel 3 seconds is an eternity in street photography.
The manual focus fiddling is exactly why I feel the X100 is not good enough for street photography. Nothing beats a mechanical focus ring in speed and I feel 3 seconds is an eternity in street photography.
peripatetic
Well-known
My post was obviously too long-winded. I think the MF/AFL combination is fine for street photography.
3 seconds is how long I take to focus manually with my RF. The X100 is much faster for me, certainly < 1s, probably < 0.5s most of the time, and if you zone focus in good light, well it's instant of course.
However if you are very adept at focussing manually the X100 may not be faster, I'm sure there are many RFF members who can focus very quickly and accurately. They may find the X100 disappointing in this regard. But for those of us who find RF focussing quite difficult to do at any speed the X100 is better.
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Arjay
Time Traveller
Interesting report - thanks a lot for your effort!
I wonder if you are also planning to write something about the camera's exposure metering system.
I wonder if you are also planning to write something about the camera's exposure metering system.
peripatetic
Well-known
Yes that is on my list to do. 
For street, use MF and pre-focus. Nothing is faster. Or just use AF, it's quite fast.
The X100 in AF mode is far faster than manually focusing a rangefinder patch.
Or just use AF, it's quite fast.The X100 in AF mode is far faster than manually focusing a rangefinder patch.
Vagabond
Accomplished Malingerer
Thanks so much for the reports. I'm sure that they will speed up the initial set up and eliminate a lot of unnecessary experimentation when I get mine.
Niels
Established
Thx for the work peripatetic - much appreciatet!
A few comments:
Agree that the OVF is the right choise, the EVF may have a small advantage i badly lit surroundings though.
However there are a small but significant lag in the EVF, best visible when panning. This lag will multiply when using the Focus Check Option (obs: also when in OVF, this is a EVF zoom function) , to a degree that makes this feature useless, unless on a tripod or doing your best 400-yards-sniper-shot. The Oly VF2 has lower resolution but allmost zero lag, and is ultimatly a tool you can use. A classic split screen focus aid (or indeed a RF overlay) in the OVF would be wellcome. (Firmware upgrade anyone?) PS: To use the Focus Check Option press the Command Control - upper right corner.
As for the focus ring I think you are too kind :=) As you say it seems best suitet for macro work because of the low gearing. In all other surroundings it is, for practically reasons, close to useless.
This much more so as the AF works like a charm. I agree that the focus times as a rule are below 0.5 s. As for RF competition here... well let me just say I know nobody that can focus their RF's sub .5 s 9 times out of 10 (or more). I of course have read of some that claim they can do it.
(Oh and using the LCD screen for focusing? - why not if thats whats gets your picture.)
For street photo Id set the AF/AE button with the AF function, and in ON/OFF mode, doing the AE on the trigger. This makes pre-focus tecniques work like a charm. But I really wish Fuji would give us an extra programmable button (RAW as suggestet by most) + expand the Custum Setting options heavily. These settings are pointless as of now.
Kind Regards
A few comments:
Agree that the OVF is the right choise, the EVF may have a small advantage i badly lit surroundings though.
However there are a small but significant lag in the EVF, best visible when panning. This lag will multiply when using the Focus Check Option (obs: also when in OVF, this is a EVF zoom function) , to a degree that makes this feature useless, unless on a tripod or doing your best 400-yards-sniper-shot. The Oly VF2 has lower resolution but allmost zero lag, and is ultimatly a tool you can use. A classic split screen focus aid (or indeed a RF overlay) in the OVF would be wellcome. (Firmware upgrade anyone?) PS: To use the Focus Check Option press the Command Control - upper right corner.
As for the focus ring I think you are too kind :=) As you say it seems best suitet for macro work because of the low gearing. In all other surroundings it is, for practically reasons, close to useless.
This much more so as the AF works like a charm. I agree that the focus times as a rule are below 0.5 s. As for RF competition here... well let me just say I know nobody that can focus their RF's sub .5 s 9 times out of 10 (or more). I of course have read of some that claim they can do it.
(Oh and using the LCD screen for focusing? - why not if thats whats gets your picture.)
For street photo Id set the AF/AE button with the AF function, and in ON/OFF mode, doing the AE on the trigger. This makes pre-focus tecniques work like a charm. But I really wish Fuji would give us an extra programmable button (RAW as suggestet by most) + expand the Custum Setting options heavily. These settings are pointless as of now.
Kind Regards
peripatetic
Well-known
Wow - thanks! Outstanding tip.
You actually have to press the thing in, not just left and right.
I have been trying to find a use for the "Command Control" widget since I got the camera. Couldn't. Now I see how to trigger it.
Very useful for focus fine tuning. Not fast mind you. But excellent for slow-situation focus precision.
Niels
Established
Talking of the Command Control:
AFAIU this 3-button control only have 1 specific task: Focus Check Option (pressing down). Pressing left or right just dublicates the Command Dial pressing left or right - waste of possibilities. These functions should be programmable as well.
Kind Regards
AFAIU this 3-button control only have 1 specific task: Focus Check Option (pressing down). Pressing left or right just dublicates the Command Dial pressing left or right - waste of possibilities. These functions should be programmable as well.
Kind Regards