Xpan 2 questions...

[Ben1]

Hey all, new to this, got a few q's as a potential hassy buyer - ive never shot manual focus cameras before. THey reckon this is simple to use, from reading about it, i think not... Anyways :bang:

1) the xpan has TTL metering, so when it meters, what info does it "suggest" to you?.. aperture, shuttter speed or both?.. you then select the app and shutter on the lens and snap the pic? correct ?.. i think im confused.
It also has aperture priority automatic mode - how does this work?.. Im guessing you select the shutter speed and it will select aperture for you (same as SLR)?>???? Maybe someone could run me down through a typical photo with this camera, from turning the camera on right through to pressing the shutter ????? (in a few different scenarios)... 😕

2) (May also apply to above question) The XPAN is rangefinder, how does this work? something about two images in the viewfinder having to line up to achieve focus?.. or have i got this wrong?. please explain?


3)Exposure Compensation??.. please explain, an example of how/where u might use this would help..

and finally,.. Do i need a lightmeter for this camera, as i will be taking landscape images in low light, sunsets and sunrises etc etc....


Thank you all in advance who attempt to answer my questions. I really wanna buy this camera but im just a lil paranoid that i may find it too difficult and wont understand how to use it!!!

THANKS HEAPS!
Ben 😀

 

[Ben Conover]

🙄

Hey there, I'm new here and a beginner for 18 months, so bear with me! I use Two Fuji 69's, Rolleicord 4, and two mamiya 35mm systems. So far!

So here's my first post. Disclaimer: I have never used the camera you refer to, too expensive!

1.

TTL means through the lens, so all the information you get about exposure etc. is coming through the lens and will be what the film sees. You can use filters etc. better that way since the changes are measured TTL.

With most cameras of that ilk you can adjust the aperture or shutter speed to give a correct exposure, according to what the meter is reading. Aperture priority is where you might set an aperture of say 5.6, quite wide, then the meter gives a corresponding shutter speed automatically, thus giving a correct exposure.

2. A rangefinder works by using the image as seen through the viewfinder and the iage from the lens to focus, two separate images. You Twist the focus ring until what you want to see in focus is in focus. The focus patch is in the center of the viewfinder and has a split-image, two images. If you point that patch at an apple and get the two images to co-incide then you will have that apple in focus. The advantage of rangefinder focus is that you can always get maximum light, rather than focusing through the lens as all slr cameras do. So, rangefinders are good for low light stuff. Also, you may want to do a Google search on Hyper-focal distance focusing, it works very well for fast street photography, a la Henri Cartier Bresson.

3. Exposure compensation is what you use when you want to change the exposure setting just slightly, a stop over or under, thus giving a slightly brighter or darker photo. It is useful when metering scenes like snowy mountains etc.

4. You can always use a light meter, the camera has one, I think. Anyhow, most light meters will be fine, try a very sensitive one like Profisix, for low light work. The best light meter you can have is your brain, so you can get used to exposures. Example: I know that if I use my Fuji 69's with Efke 25 film on a bright day, the correct exposure will be F5.6 @ 1/60 sec. or thereabouts. The light meter is designed to prevent you guessing!

Buy it, and don't be paranoid, it is far simpler than learning digital. The analogue world has alot to offer, and prices are low. Try ebay, I saw one going cheap.

All the best mate,

Ben Conover.

😀

 

[rardinger]

Aperture priority = set aperature, camera sets shutter speed.
Shutter priority = set shutter speed, camera sets aperature. This mode ( and "program" modes require a mecanism for the camera to adjust the f stop on the lens).

Less difficult for a fixed lens camera or a SLR lens that is viewed through while wide open and the camera already has to close the lens diaphragm down to take a picture even if the metering was "manual", In most interchangable lens rangefinders (Xpan, Leica, Bessa) the camera cannot control the diaphragm. Since one is not looking through the lens there is no need to stop the lens down only at the time of exposure so the lens is always at the f stop setting that one has chosen.

I use the internal meter of the Xpan. A hand held spot meter may be useful in some situations but I have not felt the need to drag one along.

The camera displays the shutter speed in the viewfinder (Xpan II). One can sort of see the aperture ring on the lens throught the corner of the viewfinder but there is not a designed in way to see the f stop setting in the viewfinder.

The Xpan is a joy to use one is at least comfortable with rangefinders in general. There is a BIG difference between a modern AF SLR with zoom and all settings either set by the camera of set using camera (not lens) controls and a interchangeble lens rangefinder with overlap focus (remember that the image in the finder is always in focus to your eye, the focus is set by the overlap in the rangefinder patch), manual f stop settings, frame lines to approximate what the content of an image should be with different lenses, etc.

The fact that this the RFF exists attests to the joy many feel when using these cameras but they are not everyones cup of tea.

The Xpan overall is a well built, easy to use rangefinder camera and if it your first one you will have no more diffuculty using it than using a modern Bessa or Leica but you really should try out a camera of this type (Bessa, Leica) for at least a few hours to see if you can deal with the differences from what you are used to. If you borrow and use a Bessa R with a normal lens as an example and really do not like it then you likely will not like the Xpan.