Xpan Scanning with LS-5000 ?

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noimmunity

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Are there any tutorials that would explain how to use the Coolscan 5000 to scan XPan negs? I have no trouble doing separate scans and then merging when it is just two frames at the beginning of a roll, but I haven't had any success once I get further into the roll. Yet I see comments occasionally by people who claim they use the LS-5000 to scan entire rolls of Xpan pano negs.

Below is a scan made with the frame at the start of a roll, my first Xpan frame:


Across the street by areality4all, on Flickr
 
I do it on a V. It's incredibly annoying in my mind, but it does work. I emailed Ed about it at one point and he didn't have any great suggestions - I'd be interested to see if someone else got something different.

I use the V with Vuescan and the strip feeder. The annoying part is that it takes a bit of trial and error for pretty much every strip of negatives to find the starting point of each frame. But here are my notes:


1. Turn off 'Frame Alignment'.
2. Set frame to '1'
3. Scan first frame
4. Lock exposure.
5. Set frame to '2'
6. Change 'Frame Offset' by -10. This part is very consistent.
7. Scan second frame.


For the 2nd and 3rd frames on a strip, you do essentially the same as above, but setting the 'Frame' control to 3 and 4 for Xpan frame 2, and setting it to 5 and 6 for Xpan frame 3. Also, the starting offsets for each frame on the negative are a bit different. And they seem to change depending a lot. The numbers below are really only rough guidelines - I've had negatives be very different depending on where Vuescan decided to position the negative in the scanner.

Frame 1:

- 1st half: frame 1, offset 6.3
- 2nd half: frame 2, offset -3.7

Frame 2:

- 1st half: frame 3, offset -9.2 (sometimes -4.5)
- 2nd half: frame 4, offset -19.2 (sometimes -14.5)

Frame 3:

- 1st half: frame 5, offset -14 (to -18)
- 2nd half: frame 6, offset -24 (to -28)
 
agianelo said:
Why don't you email Ed Hammrick, the author of Vuescan and see if he can help you with this problem.
Click to expand...

I did that time ago.
Mr. Hammrick, very kindly, told me that the internal mechanics of this scanner did not allow to scan negatives this wide. It's not a matter of software.

A couple of times I've done two partial scans and then stitched them together. They look good, but I'm certain that my technique is not worth sharing it.

MP
 
I use Nikon Scan with Coolscan V ED.
The SA 21 was not simple to use for Xpan neg.

Now I use FH-3 Strip film holder that I have removed the separation's strip.
Two scanned files to be merged.

I have cut my film by 3 frames.

Arnaud
 
rodinal said:
I did that time ago.
Mr. Hammrick, very kindly, told me that the internal mechanics of this scanner did not allow to scan negatives this wide. It's not a matter of software.

A couple of times I've done two partial scans and then stitched them together. They look good, but I'm certain that my technique is not worth sharing it.

MP
Click to expand...

I, too, received a kind answer explaining that the LS-5000 would not support the scanning of Xpan frames.

While it is clearly impossible to get the scanner to scan a single Xpan frame in one pass, it is possible to merge two scans of alternate sides in a single frame. I was hoping it would be possible to do this for a whole roll. Tim's approach is a bit more refined, but indicates that there is still a lot of hit and miss involved.

Arnaud, may I trouble you to explain a bit more the use of the FH-3? I thought it was just useful for keeping the strips flat. When you say that you have eliminated the separation strip, would that be on the black plastic part? I'm looking at web photos of the FH-3, trying to extrapolate.

It still seems to me that the best method will be to cut the roll into strips of two Xpan pano negatives (i.e, four 135mm frames) and scan separately by inserting the film strip from each side.

Maybe the mods could make this a sticky?
 
FH-3 is a device that can hold 6 frames of 24 x 36.
3 frames from one side and the other 3 from second side of FH-3.

With Xpan neg. I scan the first frame as 24x36 then the second scan as 24x32 (to have 2-3mm more to be safe).

The second Xpan frame is to be scanned same way but by sliding the first Xpan frame outside of the FH-3.

The other simplified "Xpan neg scan", I use my M9 with BEOON:
http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=39399&sid=aaceaa18bba4868af494a7fb66dd68f9
sorry in french but you can use an SLR also.

Arnaud
 
Arnaud,

that BEOON set-up looks so cool. Only too bad I do not have an M9. (I suppose it would not work with an M8).

I live in Lyon and teach some of my courses in French (also some in English and some in mandarin Chinese, both of which I speak much better than French). I'm registered on Summilux.net but haven't spent a lot of time there yet.

Jon

a.noctilux said:
FH-3 is a device that can hold 6 frames of 24 x 36.
3 frames from one side and the other 3 from second side of FH-3.

With Xpan neg. I scan the first frame as 24x36 then the second scan as 24x32 (to have 2-3mm more to be safe).

The second Xpan frame is to be scanned same way but by sliding the first Xpan frame outside of the FH-3.

The other simplified "Xpan neg scan", I use my M9 with BEOON:
http://www.summilux.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=39399&sid=aaceaa18bba4868af494a7fb66dd68f9
sorry in french but you can use an SLR also.

Arnaud
Click to expand...
 
I do the scanning of my widelux shot by utilizing the roll film adapter. I do two scans of the roll named a and b. I stitch the 2 or 3 frames to get whole image.

Regards,
Steve
 
Steve Ash said:
I do the scanning of my widelux shot by utilizing the roll film adapter. I do two scans of the roll named a and b. I stitch the 2 or 3 frames to get whole image.

Regards,
Steve
Click to expand...

Aha! I do have the SA-30 adapter, and so was curious if there was not a way to do this. Are there certain settings that you use to offset the first scan of the entire roll from that of the second scan of the entire roll?
 
For each scan of the roll adjust the offset of the first image of the roll only. The first scan of the roll is adjusted for the left border, the second scan for the right border of the frame. For stitching you take the inner scan of one scan of the roll (i.e. without any border of the frame) and the images to the left and right of the other scan of the roll.

Steve
 
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