Xtol or TMax developer?

I have used both. I never liked the tonality of Xtol with any film I have tried it with. I prefer the tonality I have gotten with Tmax Developer but Tmax is rather grainy. The only film I actually prefer Tmax develop for is Tmax 3200. I know that seems strange since its a grainier developer, but its grain is not bad with 3200, and the tonality is far superior to any other developer with this film.

You didn't mention what film you're using. For Tmax 100, Plus-X, Tri-X, or Ilford Pan-F, try D-76 1+1. Thats my favorite for those films. I like Rodinal too for Tmax 100 and Pan-F, but its grainier....but NICE tonality.

Tmax 400 delivers real nice tonality in Tmax Developer but its kinda grainy.
 
I'll second D76. It's cheaper, more consistent and lasts longer in solution (regardless of the Kodak hype about XTOL). The Tmax developer has given me noting but fits. XTOL is great for very fine grain, but be careful not to over dilute.

Best wishes
Dan
 
I really liked the results I was getting with D76 with HP5 but had trouble with Neopan 400 and switched to XTOL. In hindsight I think it was agitation that was causing the problems ... the Neopan really doesn't like a lot of agitation with either developer and I may go back to D76 when I have finished the XTOL I have mixed.

I shot some HP5 at 1600 and D76 and the results blew me away for my first attempt at pushing 400 film in very low light.

PCYCBall_07.jpg
 
I'm shooting with Tmax 100 right now. I think I'll give the D76 a try since everyone seems to like it so much. I have to admit, I did get good results with it in the past, but that was with Tri-x 400.
 
Mudman said:
Well I've ordered up some D76, a new changing bag and some archival strips. Can't wait to see how it comes out.
Click to expand...


You'll like it, I think. One thing to keep in mind with D-76 is that its not a very strong developer. If you dilute it 1+1 (which gives the nicest tonality and sharpness) you need to make sure there's at least 15oz of total solution for each 35mm or 120 roll processed. With 120 film this is easy....it takes that much developer to cover a 120 roll in most developing tanks. But 15 oz is enough to fill a 2-reel 35mm tank, and if you actually put 2 rolls in the tank with D-76 1+1 it will be underdeveloped a bit. Put one roll in a 2 roll tank and fill the tank up. If you have 2 rolls, you use a 4 roll tank filled with developer.

Tmax Developer is stronger and can do 2 rolls in a 2 roll tank, but D67 can only do that if you do not dilute it, which is ok, but D-76 gives its best quality diluted 1+1.
 
Well I was planning on taking the the packet and mixing it with water to make 1 gallon. The solution I'm getting is to make a Gallon. I'm guessing that should be 1:1 correct?
 
No. that makes a gallon of the fullstrength developer. you can use that as-is, or dilute with water. Equal amounts of water and the fullstrength developer gets you the 1+1 dilution.

If you look in the data sheets for films, they'll list a D-76 time and often a D-76 1+1 time. The plain D-76 time is for the fullstrength solution...what you get when you dissolve your powder in the amount of water specified on the package.
 
rocking thank you. The last time I did this, the teacher made up all of the chemicals for us, and I either was never told how to mix it, or didn't write it down in my notes. Either is possible I guess.
Thanks again,
Eric
 
I've only ever really used Xtol. I've been happy enough with it. It gives a bit of a speed boost, and is relatively easy to mix up. You can mix it up at room temperature. Those two things were enough for me.

It has been relatively decent with a variety of films too - PanF+, P3200TMZ, Tri-X, Plus-X....
 
I just tried the d-76 1:1 at the suggested 9.5 minutes and it looks like it worked great. Can't wait to scann some of the negs and see the true results. Thanks everyone!
 
Mudman said:
I just tried the d-76 1:1 at the suggested 9.5 minutes and it looks like it worked great. Can't wait to scann some of the negs and see the true results. Thanks everyone!
Click to expand...


I think you'll like it a lot. The grain isn't bad, the tonality is nice. I do it for 9 minutes and expose at 320 because I find the highlights a little easier to manage at that time and EI (this is probably because of my scanner, I probably wouldnt see a difference if I printed in the darkroom and your scanner may give a different look anyway)
 
Mudman said:
Here's a link to the results
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21102978@N04/sets/72157603565469698/
One of my favorites (and shows off the dynamic range)
2143604851_136409715e_b.jpg


I've missed good B&W!
Click to expand...


Nice. I know how you feel about missing good black and white. I tried to go all digital a few yrs ago after I got my Kodak 14n camera. The black and whites were very nice with that camera but nowhere near as good as I got with real black and white, using film. I went back to film about a year ago myself, though I was not new to it. I'd developed my own film for 15 years before my digital experiment.
 
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