Your B&W digital workflow...

T

Todd.Hanz

Guest
... care to share? Instructions with examples of how you suck the color from an image would be great!

Todd
 
I don't use it any more but I spent much time figuring a work flow, here is/was mine:

I converted the digital file with a PSE/PS plug-in, free called; photo-plug-ins the A/W conversion plug-in.

(this is a channel mixer on steroids)

Then I used a curves the do something with the mid-tones as digital is so linear; I now use Easy Filter's Smart Curve with PSE, it is also free.

Brightness adjustment, and Unsharp Mask at AMT 20; RADIUS 50; and THRESHOLD 0. This adds a little snap to both ends of the tone scale. You can adjust the AMT but leave the others alone.

Finally, I sharpened if needed.
 
I use Adobe Raw, Desaturate temporarily and make adjustments to curves and brightness, then resaturate when opening into PS. In PS I use silver efex pro plug-in to then convert to black and white and adjust the brightness, contrast, and grain structure
 
Import RAW into Aperture, do a quick monochrome conversion in Aperture to get a preview. Undo the monochrome conversion, then (if I liked what I saw) open in Silver Efex. From then on, it's like darkroom work (not that I've done that much): dodge, burn, adjust microcontrast (what they call "structure"), etc. I leave sharpening till very last, and use Nik Output Sharpener (I need to learn more about this).
 
Last edited:
I downloaded A/W conversion and I'm making my way down the list, I'll have a look at Silver EFX next, any others?

Todd
 
I have no real work flow or pattern and treat each conversion on it's own merits after desaturation and I don't use any type of plug in or free standing software. The original exposure has a big effect on how the end result will turn out IMO. A stop of underexposure seems to give me the best results!

I like the black and white conversions from my D700 much more than those I was able to achieve with my M8 for some reason. The Nikons 1600 ISO files are ideal for this process!


U5265I1279790339.SEQ.0.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have several that I'm working with - here is one, apologetically simple. M8 files don't need a lot of work, at least for what and how I shoot.

First, RAW conversion
1. open dng in capture 1.4
2. adjust wb and exposure (note: my M8 is usually set to EC of -1/3 to -2/3)
3. select JFI profile (liking Tri-x lately)
4. process and save as tiff

Second, in PS:
1. open tiff file and crop a/or straighten, if needed
2. fine tune general and micro contrast (tool and degree depend on subject)
3. apply other tools as needed, e.g. dodge, burn, fall off, etc
3. add film grain to taste
4. USM - usually fairly mild, around 100/0.4

I would like to try the Silver Efex profiles at some point, but I'm liking JFI's for now. Most of the M8 shots in my RFF gallery were converted using the above method, or very close to it.
 
Last edited:
I was digging that shot in the gallery the other day Keith, the D700 is working well for you apparently, nice BW!

Todd
 
Todd,

Do not have Lightroom/Aperture, so for me it is Photoshop and ACR or DPP (Canon Software). Convert the RAW file and then in Photoshop it will all depend on the image whether I do a quick and easy conversion with Silver Efex plug in or whether I do a more complicated conversion. Recently I bought Vincent Versace's DVD on B+W conversions and although I do not always like the end results of his manipulations (a bit over the top now and then) he clearly has a lot of knowledge and I was curious to see what he had to tell. I really liked the way how he demonstrated the various methods of conversion with the same color picture as a base. Very interesting how varied the end results were. His approach: there is no good or bad conversion method, it is the end result that counts and you are the only that can say whether it is good or bad. He also was involved in the development of Silver efex by the way.

Anyway his more complicated conversion is based on 3 channel mixer layers with/without masks and if you use that technique on steroids you can also throw some Silverefex in. The simple method is of course Silverefex alone.

I also use a high pass filter to boost midtone contrast before I print. Still struggling to get a nice tone. I somehow want to replicate Agfa Portriga, but not succeeding sofar (most of the time way too warm).

Still learning a lot and by far not there yet, that is maybe why the majority of what I shoot is B+W film. Have started brushing up my PS skills as I feel digital is in the air for me.
 
I shoot all colour with the D700 and convert colour files to B&W in Nikon Capture NX2. First I get the colour files to look right to my eye and then I go to Filters and open the B&W Conversion. I usually play with the different colour filters and contrast to get what I want in a B&W. There are some examples in my gallery http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=557 . Rude and crude but I think it works.

Bob
 
I appreciate the comments and ideas, would love to see this become the go to thread for BW conversions.

Bob, that flower shot in your gallery is stunning, very rich blacks with alot of detail. I've never thought of loading Nikon Capture 2 into my computer, now I'm going to give it a try.

thanks,
Todd
 
Todd

Thanks for the compliment on the flower shot. I bought Capture NX2 because it was relatively cheap compared to other software and my PSE2 would not convert the NEFF files. I found NX2 a bit fiddly to use but it does a fine job on NEFFs and I have updated it also. The D700 never gave decent auto white balance out of the box but there was an update to it's software that took care of that issue for me. Others may never have encountered that problem as I got mine the first day it was released.

Bob
 
After a shoot, I download into a folder.
1. Use photoshop Bridge to do a batch rename of the raw files.
2. Use Capture 1 to convert to jpgs
3. Editing is done in Photoshop. I do basic dodging/burning, minor retouching and a small bit of sharpening. Black and white conversions are done with the Silver Efex Pro plug-in.
 
1. RAW files and scanned TIFs go into a 'raw/negative photo' folder, these are organised in LR 3
2. I have a separate folder for PSDs, or 'live' work that I edit from- in PS CS4
3. Finished pics are exported to the folder that corresponds with their destination (RoboterKam, etc)
 
I'll be happy to share once I'm at home *LOL*
I need my actions to show ya via PS - I also have Silver Efex which is pretty good too :)

Dave
 
Different pics require different conversion methods to get the final outcome. If you want a canned approach make some profiles in LR and use those as a starting point
 
Raw - Nik Efex (I'll choose one of the film profiles as a starting point) - dodge/burn/curves in CS.
This works for me though I've yet to fully utilize Nik's full potential.

Currently trying Alien Skin as well... another nice program.
 
Scan the BW negs using Vuescan or the Epson software. Use the 48-bit color mode. This will grab tons of info you may or may not need, but it has always worked wonders for me.

Turn OFF digital ice (if your scanner supports it) It will render your B&W files useless. It somehow posterizes the shadows.

Once in PS, use the channel mixer and fiddle accordingly. This is where most of the magic is gonna happen. I try not to make the conversion too contrasty.

After that, I usually make a small curves adjustment, and a sharpening using a Focal Blade.

Results here:

3324298830_2c3602a32f.jpg


Delta 400 pushed to... 1000? or 1600? I can't really remember.

The rest of the set is here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/xbleh/sets/72157614645496177/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom