Your Faves: Ridiculously Cheap Great Film Cameras!

[Pioneer]

A year or so ago I picked up a ratty looking Ikoflex II for $35.

Although a bit rough looking on the outside the camera actually works like a dream and the Tessar 75/3.5 lens is clear, producing very nice photos.

I am sometimes tempted to go find some new leather for it so it looks a little less like a hobo.

But then it wouldn't be such a wonderfully cheap camera. 🙂

 

[wakarimasen]

In the MF folder world, a Zeiss Ikon Nettar - at around £15 from eBay - is a very nice performer.

 

[Nokton48]

I walked into Midwest Photo one Saturday & Jim Andracki handed me a camera and said "Here Take This". It was a very nice (after recovering) Mamiyaflex C-2. Great user.

 

[ferider]

I have to disagree with the Olympus OM bodies mentioned several times above.

I love my OM system, but it's almost impossible to find OM-1 or OM-2[n] with working meter and no prism foam these days. So, yeah, you can buy either for 50 bucks on ebay, but more likely than not you'll have to put some work in.

I feel I got the best value for the money on the following film cameras that I bought over the last couple of years:

- 2 x Maxxum 9 (US 220 and 230)
- Maxxum 600SI (around US 100)
- Nikon FM and F3 (US 100 for the F3, less for the FM, I don't remember)

All of these feel like they will survive me.

Roland.

 

[Skiff]

I you talk about pure mechanical cameras, then maybe yes. But digital ones or even those with a minimum of electronics (if they need a battery) won't keep 50 years. Be happy if they last 10 years.

And why are electronic film cameras like the Canon AE-1, Nikon FE, Pentax ME and LX, Nikon F3 etc, which are now even in 35 - 39 year old range, still working?
Why has the F3 the reputation of being one of the most robust cameras?
Why has my camera repair man much more work and problems with the Nikon F2 compared to the F3?
Film cameras with electronic components have proved for decades now that they can last a very long time.
And even if an electronic part may fail after 30-40 years, then replace it with a part from a donor camera.
It's the same way my camera repair man give new life to mechanical cameras. No difference at all, because the spare parts problem is a general problem for very old cameras.

I am into photography for about 40 years now.
I have never had a single failure with any of my electronic based film cameras.
Had two repairs with my mechanical cameras.
If an electronic film camera is well designed, like the professional Nikon and Canon film cameras for example, it will serve you for decades.

And by the way: What is the "heart" of a camera? It is the shutter.
And the shutters of the EOS 1 V, F5, F6, Dynax 9 etc. are designed for robustness and durability in professional use, with a minimum of 150,000 - 200,000 releases.
The local Nikon professional service some years ago had a F5 from a customer (working flawlessly) with a number of shutter releases of 1 million (!!) releases.
You will not get that from a Nikon FM(2), Pentax MX, Minolta SRT, Olympus OM-1/2 etc.
Their shutters are not designed for that heavy use.

The main question for long term durability is not whether you have a purely mechanical camera or a film camera with electronic parts.
The main question is: How well is the camera designed and built.
And my Nikon F6 is definitely more robustly and better built than my former old F2 or younger FM2.

 

[codester80]

I'll second or third the F90(s/x). Wicked meter and not too heavy.
I have to talk myself out of bidding on Nikkormats every time I venture over to evilbay. They are SO cheap and just as good as the F.

 

[NickTrop]

Rarely use it these days, but the Nikon L35af with its 35/2.8 Sonnar (that's right -- "Sonnar". How much would a Nikon 35/2.8 autofocus pancake Sonnar set you back today?) is a fun little P-n-S I picked up for $1.00. Surprisingly Rockwell even reviewed this.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/l35af.htm

 

[Huss]

And why are electronic film cameras like the Canon AE-1, Nikon FE, Pentax ME and LX, Nikon F3 etc, which are now even in 35 - 39 year old range, still working?...

You need to google 'tin whiskers'.
Solder used back then is different from what can be used now. Electronics' longevity changed from 2006 onwards.

 

[CMur12]

You need to google 'tin whiskers'.
Solder used back then is different from what can be used now. Electronics' longevity changed from 2006 onwards.

For the better or for the worse?

- Murray

 

[pete hogan]

For the better or for the worse?

- Murray

Worse. Old solder contained lead, which mitigated whisker growth. New solder cannot contain lead, see RoHS. Risk of future short-circuits.

 

[Pioneer]

Since none of those cameras have reached their 20 year anniversary I guess we will all have to just wait and see.

Meanwhile I am having a ball with them. 😀

 

[CMur12]

Worse. Old solder contained lead, which mitigated whisker growth. New solder cannot contain lead, see RoHS. Risk of future short-circuits.

That's discouraging.

- Murray

 

[mike rosenlof]

Nikkormat - any of the full manual versions
Mamiya TLR - especially the later ones 330f/s
Crown Graphic - any of the ones with a Graflock back
Nearly any 4x5 monorail made after about 1960

 

[Skiff]

You need to google 'tin whiskers'.
Solder used back then is different from what can be used now. Electronics' longevity changed from 2006 onwards.

I am well aware of that.
But all the cameras I've talked about have the old tin with lead, including the Nikon F6.
Products which were designed before the new legislation are allowed using the old production method.

 

[Spanik]

I am well aware of that.
But all the cameras I've talked about have the old tin with lead, including the Nikon F6.
Products which were designed before the new legislation are allowed using the old production method.

They also have components with large scale features. Just a transistor and diode or so. Not much to go wrong and robust components. And if something goes wrong you can find something close enough that it will work or there are potmeters around to trim. Try that with one of those bga image processors or an lcd.

 

[David Hughes]

I have to disagree with the Olympus OM bodies mentioned several times above.

I love my OM system, but it's almost impossible to find OM-1 or OM-2[n] with working meter and no prism foam these days. So, yeah, you can buy either for 50 bucks on ebay, but more likely than not you'll have to put some work in... Roland.

Hi,

I had that trouble with my elderly (non-MD) OM-1 but had no trouble getting an "as new" prism from an OM10 fitted. And if you can't find a new prism on ebay (I've seen several sold in the original spare part packing) there's plenty of dud OM10's around to donate one. Although the OM10 is a bargain imo, especially with a lens on it for a pittance. I also had the camera converted to take SR44's at the same time. Result a very elderly OM-1 like new.

Regards, David

PS Just checked it's 1973/74 and Olympus say the shutter system is "capable of withstanding 100,000 operations".

 

[ChrisPlatt]

Pentax P3n

The Pentax P3n/P30T twins are really nice manual focus bodies with M, P and Av modes and AE lock.
So cheap they're almost disposable. I've got three of these now.

Another sleeper is the Pentax KM, a classic Pentax K-series mechanical manual exposure-only body.
Unknown and often underpriced, it's overshadowed by its cheapened successor, the venerable K1000.

I'd avoid any of the Pentax ZX/MZ bodies (except the MZ-S) due to the inevitable failure of the plastic gear that drives everything.

Chris

 

[John E Earley]

99 cent Canon by Earley Photography, on Flickr

 

[MrFujicaman]

Does my $8.29 Ricoh GR-1s meet the requirements ?

 

[Cameron]

Rarely use it these days, but the Nikon L35af with its 35/2.8 Sonnar (that's right -- "Sonnar". How much would a Nikon 35/2.8 autofocus pancake Sonnar set you back today?) is a fun little P-n-S I picked up for $1.00. Surprisingly Rockwell even reviewed this.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/l35af.htm

One of the best and most affordable point-and-shoots ever made.