Zeiss Contax prewar Collapsible Tessar ?

I want to add that recently I discovered that the 5cm f/2.8 Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar (silver version) exhibits significant (read: more than the Sonnar) focus shift all the way up to f/8. The good area of focus moves backwards quite significantly. This behavior was confirmed with a second (black) copy by Goliathus. (I don't know if he still posts here.)

I like the look of a Tessar lens, but practically I think the Tessar 3.5 is the better choice, a less stretched design. Or, just go for the masterpiece as Brian (IMO) correctly suggested.
The price difference today makes the Contax Tessars (exempting the brilliant Opton rigid Tessar) almost not worth it.
 
I have a 3.5/5 Tessar that will be used on a Contax II. I came across this thread while thinking about finding filters and lens hoods for it. From what I learned here I decided to try a few options. The picture below shows what I came up with.
Going down the vertical rows from the left and top:
First row is the lens, a black and silver face from about 1931. The lens cover is from another Lomo lens and is about 1-7/8 ID and fits nicely over the outside
Second row is a 35mm film container cap, a Kodak Series IV lens hood and a Kodak series IV to 27mm push on adapter ring with a Series IV daylight filter held in by a locking ring. The hood can be used instead of the locking ring to hold the filter. The film container cap fits the hood perfectly and can be used as a lens cap.
Third row is an Enteco Series V hood and has its own 27mm push on adapter ring and will accept any of the great variety of Series V filters. Below it is the Kodak Series V lens hood and last is the Kodak Series V to 27mm adapter ring with its locking collar and a daylight filter installed. The hood can be used instead of the locking ring.
Fourth row is a 42mm push on lens hood that fits the lens just inside the exterior in a groove probably made for this purpose. If this is used it allows setting the aperture by rotating the hood. Below it is a threaded Zeiss UV filter. This was a failed experiment as it did not thread on to the lens's 27 mm diameter. Below it is a KMZ M24x.05 threaded filter. This was also a failed experiment since it did not thread into the lens ID. What appear to be threads there don’t seem to be that size or may just be machined circles.
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Next this is the Series V adapter ring and filter. As has been noted elsewhere this works but obscures the index mark for the aperture ring, requiring removal to correctly adjust the aperture. The Series V hood can be used here but makes the access even worse.

IMG_0945.jpeg
Last are pictures of the Series IV adapter ring with filter and also with the hood installed. The aperture index mark is visible in both cases. this seems to be the best solution, and the adapter ring and filter alone could be used with the 42mm push on filter, though the cute little Series IV hood is more in keeping with this minimalist lens.

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IMG_0944.jpeg

Sorry for the poor quality of these photos.
I realize the 2.8/50 Tessar can apparently use a 25.5 screw in filter in addition to the 27mm push on, but it’s 3.5 brother cannot. I thought the 24mm screw in would work but no joy there.
The key to using Series IV filters is finding a 27mm Series IV push on adapter ring. I looked for quite a while before I found one. I have yet to use this setup with a roll of film, and I will be testing whether the smaller filter and hood cause any vignetting.
 
Thanks for this--I also have a black and nickel 50 mm f/3.5 Tessar and discovered that the front of this lens isn't threaded at all, it simply has concentric rings, so no filter is possible without something like what you have managed to rig up. I also have a later (but still uncoated) collapsible chrome 50 F/3.5 Tessar for Contax that is threaded for 25.5 mm filters. These filters aren't particularly easy to find, but they are out there. I am lucky enough to have picked up a 42 mm push on Zeiss hood a few years back which does work on both 50 f/3.5 Tessars along with a 50 f/2.8 that I also have. I wish that there was a Chinese copy of this hood, but I have never seen one.
 
My, it's funny to see this thread again. Near enough to 15 years...

Good luck & light, oldhaven & Cascadilla!

I think I need to take that Tessar 50/3.5 Brian remounted for me out today... :)
 
I'm newly into the Kiev/Contax system, and enjoying the ability to get into a camera for repairs with low stakes. Had to replace the ribbons on the Kiev 4a that I got.

Very curious about Brian's experience converting the I-61 L/D into Contax mount. I am wondering whether any Sonnar 5cm f2 mount will do, or whether I need to search out a collapsible version?
 
The I-61L/D will fit into a standard Jupiter-8 in Contax Mount and a Jupiter-8M mount. I just verified the latter has the same thread size, module screws in. Did not take it further, meaning did not do a full conversion.

@jc031699
 
It is unusual, but it is true that a Zeiss 5cm 1.5 is sharper than say a Zeiss 5cm 2.
 
Sonnar Brian said:
The I-61L/D will fit into a standard Jupiter-8 in Contax Mount and a Jupiter-8M mount. I just verified the latter has the same thread size, module screws in. Did not take it further, meaning did not do a full conversion.

@jc031699
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I did it! Converted a I-61L/D into a Jupiter 8M mount. That took a whole lot of shims... maybe 3.5mm worth. Good thing I've got a few options since beginning this endeavor. It works beautifully, collimated with my M240 and Amedeo adapter. Looking forward to using it on my newly repaired Contax II :). A few weeks' worth of work. Thanks Brian-

In the process I got an uncoated Sonnar f2 collapsible from the early 1930's, which I could just not bring myself to dismantle. It came with beautiful front glass and was super affordable... go figure!
 
Congratulations! Please post some pictures of the lens, and taken with the lens.
A 5cm f2 Pre-war Sonnar with a clean front element is a rare item, probably 75% of the ones I've seen are in bad shape.
I have mounts left-over from converting Sonnars to Leica mount.
 
Sonnar Brian said:
Congratulations! Please post some pictures of the lens, and taken with the lens.
A 5cm f2 Pre-war Sonnar with a clean front element is a rare item, probably 75% of the ones I've seen are in bad shape.
I have mounts left-over from converting Sonnars to Leica mount.
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Are they really? What are the common issues? I'm wondering if I'm just not picky or if I'm fairly lucky.
 
raid said:
I often bypass using a filter and instead use a good lens hood.
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I am a crotchety old bugger. I use a filter and a hood. Old glass is rarely coated or if coated not really well coated so the hood helps damp refraction, and protect the lens. The UV scrapes off the UV, and also protects the lens. Yes, I have bought a lot of UV and UV/IR filters and hoods. Belt and suspenders rule! ;o)
 
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Sonnar Brian said:
The M9 needs a UV filter, as does film. It does protect the glass from dust and lessons the number of times the surface needs to be cleaned.
I end up with a filter and a hood.
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I have a few habits. The filter + hood is a good one. ;o) Slow learned but once I have it I have it.. LOL
 
boojum said:
I am a crotchety old bugger. I use a filter and a hood. Old glass is rarely coated or if coated not really well coated so the hood helps damp refraction, and protect the lens. The UV scrapes off the UV, and also protects the lens. Yes, I have bought a lot o UV and UV/IR filters and hoods. Belt and suspenders rule! ;o)
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I also use both a filter and a hood on my old lenses. It isn't like there are lots of pristine replacement front elements floating around...
 
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