robert blu
quiet photographer
Great!
rob
rob
Nice work with a challenging lens. The thing I had the hardest time with was keeping my fingers out of the shot. And keeping the lens level in some situations can be challenging. I found the Frankenfinder much easier in this regard. Much better color results on the M8 than I would have guessed. Keep at it!
Yes. I have been using both Cornerfix and Adobe Flat Field with my older CV 21/4 and CV 15/4.5. Those software both work well. For me, Cornerfix works a little better -- I think it has something to do with the calibration images I'm using.
Personally, I wouldn't mind having a Hologon. Like you say Raid, it is pretty unique. But, I would probably pick up a vIII CV 15/4.5 first. Its just because I appreciate the lens handling characteristics along with the attention to using it on digital sensors. And, I think it costs less. 😉
However, I completely understand the attraction of the Hologon!😎 I think our brains are wired similarly when it comes to "interesting" lenses. Lucky for me, I have a limiting budget and an observant wife. 🙁
So, if I were Raid I would keep and enjoy the Hologon.....and eventually find myself a CV 15/4.5 vIII as well. One nice thing about already having a lens of a particular focal length is that I adopt a very casual and patient approach to pursuing other lenses in the same FL range.
JC: Thanks for reminding me to explore using Cornerfix or the Adobe Flat Field plugin. How would you go about getting either one?
Yes, jkcampbell has the download sites.
I have used both software. They are quite similar. Adobe Flat Field can be used while in Lightroom. Cornerfix is used outside Lightroom (at least that's how my system is configured).
For both Flat Field and Cornerfix you make your own calibration images. The number of images you need is up to you and how "particular" you are. I made 4 to 6 calibration images for each lens: They are determined by focus distance and aperture -- I used 3m wide open, 3m mid-aperture, 3m fully stopped down, near infinity wide open, near infinity mid-aperture, near infinity closed down. You simply take a photo of a blank evenly illuminated white or gray surface to make a calibration image. I used a big gray card (I think 18x24 inches) taped to the wall opposite a large window in my living room during a bright overcast day. The Cornerfix website has some alternative approaches to getting calibration images. Sounds difficult, but really quite easy. Hardest part is ensuring even illumination. I've heard of people simply photographing a fully overcast British sky (common condition?). Some people make an image through a transluscent plastic sheet against an overcast sky.
Once you have calibration images, you simply open your uncorrected image in Cornerfix, select the appropriate calibration image from a list, and click to correct. Works well. You'll find that if you choose a calibration image that doesn't really match the conditions of your target image, it still works quite well. So, don't get too hung up on getting a calibration image for every combination of focus distance and aperture.
I'll just say that I strongly recommend giving one of these softwares a try (try Cornerfix first?). You will be very, very happy with the corrections. I would be very unhappy with my older CV wides without Cornerfix or Flat Field. I could dig up examples if you're interested...