Zeiss Ikon Contaflex II Shutter Repairs

Found out one of my current spanners would work on getting the shutter out. I still didn't find anything totally wrong, but then I haven't torn down 50 of these things to know. Not much in the way of lubrication in evidence, and everything runs smoothly.

I worked the leading edge of the B Lever Release pusher, and the surface of the Release too with some 600 grit paper. Hope smoothing them out helps cut down the drag.

PF
 
Hi,
it might be timely to review what you've done to date and look at some of the causes of the malfunctions these SLRs can suffer from.

A delay between depressing the shutter and the mechanism firing with any model Contaflex—at least those with Compur shutters, I have no experience with the cheaper Prontor shutter models fitted to Pantar lens equipped types such as the Alpha and Prima—can be the result of dirty shutter blades. If these stick, it takes a finite amount of time for the mechanism to overcome the resistance of the blades and fire (if it can at all of course).

As you've previously got the shutter blades nice and clean, we can eliminate this as a cause of the sluggish operation of this example. I suppose it is still possible that there is an issue with the shutter itself (although it seems quite unlikely given the careful stripping and cleaning of the shutter you've done). But having removed the shutter from the body, you will be now able to manually cock and release it to ensure all is well and remedy any faults.

Following on from that then.
The first two models (Ie. the original Contaflex and the Contaflex II) that were fitted with a fixed 45mm Tessar and use front cell focus, are fundamentally different to any later 50mm Tessar model with interchangeable front components (which have their own little nuances, depending on which particular one you're talking about). Rather than featuring a central shaft with a pinion gear (or coupling) like the later types, these early models rely on those largish circular rings behind the shutter to drive it.

Note that it's possible to fire the camera body with the shutter removed: it will not damage it in any way. Before doing this you will, as I previously mentioned, want to make a note of the relative positions of the actuating rings, so that alignment for re-assembly is straightforward, since firing the body with the shutter out will disturb this. However as a fault finding operation it should be carried out to verify that the drive gears in the body, wind mechanism, mirror, rear capping plate, etc. are all functioning correctly and smoothly before introducing the shutter into the equation.

Having ensured that the body mechanisms are all OK, and that the separated shutter is functioning correctly, any delay in the mechanism firing is therefore highly likely to be the actuating mechanism for the shutter, so wind and release the body, paying attention to the shutter ring and the gears that drive this. These gears can be hard to see but are hidden inside a corner of the mirror box, and can *just* be accessed for cleaning and lubrication if you hold your head the right way and the moon is in the right phase. ;) They're a beautifully machined set of bevel gears. (You either appreciate these little design features or not, I suppose. Having recently persuaded an SRT-101 back into life, which relies heavily on the use of pulleys and bits of string, I'm more fond than ever of the German approach to camera manufacture, as laudable a camera as the Minolta is).

After carrying out these basic checks, and cleaning and carefully lubricating the actuating rings (I use small amounts of superfine clock oil that will not creep into the shutter) and paying particular attention to any surfaces that have to slide as they release etc. your Contaflex should be working as new.

They can be fiddly little things but were beautifully made. Any issue encountered with them are usually only the result of a need for cleaning and lubrication and rarely wear or breakage so keep at it. Hope this info helps and keep me posted.
Cheers
Brett
 
Hi,
That is the so-called "flick lever" I mentioned previously, which in the absence of the shutter assembly is free to swivel into the wrong location. Although it has only been a couple of months since I last remedied a Contaflex II off the top of my head I can't definitively recall the set position. I believe it is correct as shown in your image, but due to some particularly frustrating computer problems (I'm typing this on a touchpad) I can't access my reference photos. However. Examination of the corresponding lug at the back of the shutter (which is notched to receive the end of the spring) will reveal the correct position. From memory I think it is right as is, although the shutter needs to be teased into position to engage it as the first step in re-installing it, as I recall.

Cheers,
Brett
 
Now that I look at it, Brett, there is another notch on the shutter operating lever. Stands to reason then that the "flick lever" is in the proper position in the photo. I'll have to go back to my set page and change the description.

PF
 
Zeiss Ikon Contaflex II Reassembly and Tests

Zeiss Ikon Contaflex II Reassembly and Tests

With the help of members here, and on KyPhoto, I finally got the camera back together, and running smoothly. I have to run a test roll of film to make sure I have the aperture tension correct, and that the new focus setting is good (I used a different target this time).

Photos and videos at the link.


DSCN1016_2c by br1078phot, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634568879186/

PF
 
farlymac said:
With the help of members here, and on KyPhoto, I finally got the camera back together, and running smoothly. I have to run a test roll of film to make sure I have the aperture tension correct, and that the new focus setting is good (I used a different target this time).

Photos and videos at the link.


DSCN1016_2c by br1078phot, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634568879186/

PF
Click to expand...
This is good news. First time is always the hardest. But they're not so bad, they're just different. I rate a Bessamatic as much more fiddly to sort. I haven't experienced the insides of a Retina Reflex, yet, but suspect they may be even worse.

Now you've got an early Contaflex sorted you'll have to take on a Super B...
Cheers
Brett
 
Thanks, Brett. I think I'll hold off on doing a Super B until I get my two Ikoflexes done (one came partially disassembled, and the other looks like it was put back together wrong).

PF
 
Zeiss Ikon Contaflex II Test Roll

Zeiss Ikon Contaflex II Test Roll

The results are in, and somewhat mixed. On one hand, the shutter performed splendidly, and the meter is pretty much on the money. The aperture tension setting appears to be correct (four notches past close-down).

However, I used a more distant target for setting the infinity focus, and it looks like that's not the way to go. I'll have to wait until I can see my regular target (torrential downpours kind of getting in the way) before resetting the lens.

But here are some sample images, with the rest at the link.


Lace and Cones by br1078phot, on Flickr




Intentional Frogicide by br1078phot, on Flickr




Rolling The Hay by br1078phot, on Flickr




Tribute by br1078phot, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634588713764/

PF
 
Found one of those strings on a Mamiya SLR once, and decided not to go any further. It helped that it was a junked camera anyway.

PF
 
Test roll #3

Test roll #3

Okay, I've finally convinced myself that the old way is the best, and will set the focus at the film plane first, then adjust the mirror. I hope one of my tripod heads will clear the mirror adjustment port.

I also experienced some flares this time, and that may be due to my having the AC on in the truck for the first part of today's excursion. The two-step action seemed to hang a couple of times too, so maybe I'll go ahead and lube the B Lever Release tail. It didn't seem to bother the exposures any.

I used some Kodak ProFoto XL 100 today. I think it's repackaged something else, and the lab guy said the latitude and color renditions were much better. I like it.

Samples and link below.


Support by br1078phot, on Flickr




Stripes by br1078phot, on Flickr




Lattice Structure by br1078phot, on Flickr




Brenda Babe by br1078phot, on Flickr




Flowering Canopy by br1078phot, on Flickr




Rock Face by br1078phot, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634603525938/

PF
 
Zeiss Contaflex II Infinity Focus Setting

Zeiss Contaflex II Infinity Focus Setting

I finally got smart, and did it the old fashioned way, which is to use the normal procedure for a front-cell focusing lens. Then you adjust the mirror. It's decent now.

I also figured out that the spring on the B Lever Release was too tight, so I took some tension out of that, and now the shutter no longer stalls.

More pics and narrative at the link.


DSCN1024_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Remove Mirror Adjustment Port Cover


DSCN1019_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Mirror Adjustment Screw


DSCN1025_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Mirror Adjustment Tool Making


DSCN1021_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Focusing Aid


DSCN1028_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Mad Scientist!


DSCN1027_2c by br1078phot, on Flickr
Chipped and Scratched Front Element

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634617164668/

PF
 
Zeiss Ikon Contaflex II Test Roll #4

Zeiss Ikon Contaflex II Test Roll #4

And I hope it's the last one. Shutter is now working fine, and I have the focus about as good as I'm going to be able to. There is still some flare, but not as bad as what the partial fingerprint was causing (yes, mine). The chipped and scratched front element is not helping the sharpness any.


Ravenous Butterfly by br1078phot, on Flickr




Ravenous Butterfly (Crop) by br1078phot, on Flickr




Buy This Cloud by br1078phot, on Flickr




The Secret Lair by br1078phot, on Flickr




Bench Target 3 by br1078phot, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157634611027061/

PF
 
Some good work there, the mirror adjusting tool is nicely made, well done on a good result, clearly, you had to work for it this time. The next one will be a lot easier now. ;)
Cheers,
Brett
 
Hi Phil,
I was wondering, how do you set the focus at front cell focusing lens. When zi had ti reset focus. When I had to reset focus in several cameras, I set it at closest distance wide open. At the TLR, I made sure it is the same for both lenses. At rangefinder, I made sure it matches rangefinder close and wide open. And I let infinity focus fall where it might, and let depth of field take care of the rest. Is this the correct way of doing it? And how do you set it for an SLR with a front cell focusing?
 
I explained the process here http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGNUCUC , Sam. Set it at infinity, and the minimum should be correct, too.

Thanks, Brett. I almost feel like I could do one of these in my sleep, after having to take it apart so many times. I now have a better knowledge of how the Synchro-Compur works, so that will help me in any further repair adventures.

PF
 
Final Note

Final Note

Here is the part that turned out to be the culprit. That spring tail sticking out winds up at about a 90 degree angle while installing the B Lever Release lever. Then you have to bend it so it slides in place against the inner wall of the shutter base, giving the Release it's return tension.


DSCN0727_2 by br1078phot, on Flickr

However, that was too much tension, and it would block the return of the Pusher Rack as it made it's second pass of the Release. I took some tension out of the spring, and no more shutter hangs.

Sometimes, it's the simplest things that muck up the works. If I had caught this earlier, I never would have had the fun of learning about all the other internal parts of the Contaflex II.

Thanks again, Brett, for all your help.

PF
 
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