Beautiful images Roberto, very motivating. I had to clean the shutter and aperture of my Super B when it arrived, but it came good, and I've since run a couple of rolls through it (just some Kodax Ultramax 400 neg I had sitting around). I have quite a scanning backlog, but if I can work out how to post some images here, I will try to add some in the next week or two. I also have one of the New Super models on its way, and am checking the mail impatiently, every day, waiting for this to arrive...
Regards,
Brett
Regards,
Brett
Roberto V.
Le surrèalisme, c'est moi
Thanks Brett. Mine doesn't stop down past f/8 fast enough for the exposure, so in bright sunlight I shoot ISO 100. It needs a CLA, but it's more expensive than a new Contaflex!
Tomorrow (Well, actually in a few hours. I should be asleep
) after my car design class I'll go out to my favorite place for shooting, I'll walk around for a few hours, and just shoot when I feel like it, no pressure. It's a very relaxing exercise. I have a roll of Fuji Acros 100 loaded, and I'll take a roll of Ektar.
Contaflex+Ektar+Jazz= a happy Rob
Looking forward to seeing your shots, and everybody else's.
Tomorrow (Well, actually in a few hours. I should be asleep
) after my car design class I'll go out to my favorite place for shooting, I'll walk around for a few hours, and just shoot when I feel like it, no pressure. It's a very relaxing exercise. I have a roll of Fuji Acros 100 loaded, and I'll take a roll of Ektar.Contaflex+Ektar+Jazz= a happy Rob
Looking forward to seeing your shots, and everybody else's.
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Zentralverschluss
Member
Apertures-Contaflex
Apertures-Contaflex
Hi Roberto,
think I can help You regaining the lost apertures 11-22.
Presupposition is, that the causal parts of the mechanisms are not sticky/gummed-up too much.
The first three pictures are for Your understanding, only the last one is important for you.
First picture shows Contaflex I after removing the lens/shutter-unit. Second picture the steering mechanisms for the aperture activitys. The third one the aperture operation-ring on the backside of the shutter/lens-unit.
Now in medias res:
When the shutter is cocked, the aperture is full open, independently which aperture is set on the camera. When You release the shutter, - among other things ;-) the aperture will stop down to the preselected setting.
This is managed by back-turning of the aperture-ring inside the body to the pre-setted aperture, say f 22 for instance.
This movement is driven by the spring-loaded wheel seen on the bottom right corner (pictures 1 & 2)
If this spring has not enough tension, this movement stops at -in Your case- f 8.
You can increase this tension very easy by turning the star-shaped wheel in the film-chamber (picture 4):
Set the aperture on camera to 22.
Loosen the fixing-screw and hold the tension-wheel thight to prevent that it runs back by itself.
Now turn the wheel counterclockwise - You will notice, that tension is increasing and You´ll see that the aperture is closing more and more until f 22 is reached.
For safety, turn a little bit more, fix with screw - and enjoy Your full range of apertures!
Don´t overact - from unbended state to right tension are aproximately 1,5 to 2,5 turns!
Hope, this long description in my circumstantial school-English will help You.
Good speed (aperture) and
Best Regards
Peter
Apertures-Contaflex
Hi Roberto,
think I can help You regaining the lost apertures 11-22.
Presupposition is, that the causal parts of the mechanisms are not sticky/gummed-up too much.
The first three pictures are for Your understanding, only the last one is important for you.
First picture shows Contaflex I after removing the lens/shutter-unit. Second picture the steering mechanisms for the aperture activitys. The third one the aperture operation-ring on the backside of the shutter/lens-unit.
Now in medias res:
When the shutter is cocked, the aperture is full open, independently which aperture is set on the camera. When You release the shutter, - among other things ;-) the aperture will stop down to the preselected setting.
This is managed by back-turning of the aperture-ring inside the body to the pre-setted aperture, say f 22 for instance.
This movement is driven by the spring-loaded wheel seen on the bottom right corner (pictures 1 & 2)
If this spring has not enough tension, this movement stops at -in Your case- f 8.
You can increase this tension very easy by turning the star-shaped wheel in the film-chamber (picture 4):
Set the aperture on camera to 22.
Loosen the fixing-screw and hold the tension-wheel thight to prevent that it runs back by itself.
Now turn the wheel counterclockwise - You will notice, that tension is increasing and You´ll see that the aperture is closing more and more until f 22 is reached.
For safety, turn a little bit more, fix with screw - and enjoy Your full range of apertures!
Don´t overact - from unbended state to right tension are aproximately 1,5 to 2,5 turns!
Hope, this long description in my circumstantial school-English will help You.
Good speed (aperture) and
Best Regards
Peter
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Shahin
Established
Das ist eine fantastische Reparaturanleitung, vielen Dank.
Roberto V.
Le surrèalisme, c'est moi
Peter, thanks a LOT! I'll finally be able to shoot faster films in daylight! I have a question though. The aperture closes all the way down to 22, just not fast enough to be fully stopped down when the shutter opens. Do you think this method will fix it?. And how do I get to the screws? The screwdriver can only reach the screw at an angle and I can't loosen it.
Also, how can I remove the lens? The mirror could use a cleaning.
Thanks!
Rob
Also, how can I remove the lens? The mirror could use a cleaning.
Thanks!
Rob
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Zentralverschluss
Member
Hi Roberto,
for today only a brief answer to your questions, an explicit description with pictures will follow.
If the sequence and work of mirror, light-flap, shutter (sticky shutter blades can disturb this process) is alright with all shutter speeds (important: "B" included) - boosting the pretensioning of the aperture retrieval will of course heighten the speed of the aperture movement.
If you are not sure how to test it, tell me. Interestingly, according to original Zeiss directions, the whole cycle from "pressing the button" until the shutter releases is allowed to last only 1/50 of a second!
Yes, it is pretty difficult to reach the fixing-screw,
Zeiss-Ikon was famous all over the world for awkward solutions ;-) Try a little rust-remover first.
Do not dare to remove the lens/shutter-unit!!!
The surrealism in your avatar will catch and overtake you!
Luckily, this is not necessary, even useful for cleaning the mirror.
Bad news: cleaning the mirror will not solve your problems with mud and dirt in the finder. Only a complete disassembly and cleaning of all parts of the finder will help. No pro-repairman within the scope of a normal CLA makes this, i´ts a hell of a labour...
Roberto, I´m so enthusiastic that such a young man like you is using a camera like the Contaflex with such amazing results and it is a great pleasure for me to help you!
Next time more with detailed descriptions...
Best Regards
Peter
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Roberto V.
Le surrèalisme, c'est moi
It seems to be fine then. It all works as it should except the aperture.
I'll try getting at the screw again, I don't think I'll need any chemicals.
Oh well, it's not that bad, just a few specks in the finder.
I started using modern SLRs, but I became completely addicted to older SLRs and rangefinders. Thanks a lot for the help. This is one of my favorite cameras to use, right along my M4. I'll be very glad to be able to use faster films in daylight since sometimes I don't finish a roll under the same lighting.
Thanks!
Rob
Ronald M
Veteran
I saw some Contaflex slides done on a European trip done by my friends father. I could tell they were special, but did not fully realize why.
I was a high school senior.
In college, somone showed slides done in Switzerland. These were also special. Same camera.
It took me 20 years to understand, German optics you fool. Kick yourself.
Bought into Leica at that point.
I was a high school senior.
In college, somone showed slides done in Switzerland. These were also special. Same camera.
It took me 20 years to understand, German optics you fool. Kick yourself.
Bought into Leica at that point.
Thanks so much for your helpful and informative posts in this discussion thread, Peter. I've bookmarked it for future reference. I don't own a fixed lens Contaflex yet, but it is likely to happen, as I'm becoming increasingly fond of my Super B and can definitely see myself acquiring other examples of the Contaflex line.
Regards
Brett
Roberto V.
Le surrèalisme, c'est moi
Just adjusted the tension. It doesn't seem like it helped . Oh well, I'll just use it with ISO 100 in daylight like I always have
. Oh well, I'll just use it with ISO 100 in daylight like I always have Roberto,
could it be as simple as some old lube that has migrated onto the aperture blades? I realise the first model has a different type of shutter, but I have brought two Super Bs back to life now, by cleaning the aperture blades and when they arrived ex-ebay both were behaving the same as yours. I only ask because if they were dirty and sticking, fine tuning the mechanism won't be of much help, if they are not clean, and they are of the age where it is, by now, a distinct possibility.
I have no first hand experience (yet!) with the earlier types of fixed lens Contaflex so am unsure what is involved in accessing the shutter and aperture blades. Being a front cell focus I would hope it might be no harder than a Super B (which admittedly gives one a head start by being able to unclip the front lens group). As always, pay particular attention to the lens alignment before disturbing this if you go in.
Although access to the rear surfaces of the shutter and aperture blades is not available without removing the rear lens group (again, an unknown quantity for me with this model, but certainly not recommended with a unit focus model), patiently alternately cleaning the blades with naptha, and wiping off, will eventually pull any muck to the front and give results. This was all I did for both Super Bs with excellent results.
Note that in order to minimise contamination of the front of the rear lens array, if you leave this in situ, I preferred, (rather than flood cleaning the blades, as I otherwise might have), to apply a little naptha to some clean lens tissue, gently wipe the offending blades with this, and then wipe off with clean tissue. A little naptha residue will not hurt the lens providing it is not flooded, and as long as it is carefully cleaned at the end all should be well. Cycle the mechanism from time to time to help to pick up all the goo.
Patience is needed, but after couple of hours of this in front of the TV, success resulted with both cameras, and I've also had great success with other Synchro Compur equipped cameras.
It certainly sounds as though Peter has some excellent first hand knowledge of these early Contaflexes, so I am sure he would be able to add to, or correct any of the above suggestions which I hope may help. I have also found a link to a free copy of the Contaflex 1-4 repair manual on line, please let me know if you require this.
Regards
Brett
could it be as simple as some old lube that has migrated onto the aperture blades? I realise the first model has a different type of shutter, but I have brought two Super Bs back to life now, by cleaning the aperture blades and when they arrived ex-ebay both were behaving the same as yours. I only ask because if they were dirty and sticking, fine tuning the mechanism won't be of much help, if they are not clean, and they are of the age where it is, by now, a distinct possibility.
I have no first hand experience (yet!) with the earlier types of fixed lens Contaflex so am unsure what is involved in accessing the shutter and aperture blades. Being a front cell focus I would hope it might be no harder than a Super B (which admittedly gives one a head start by being able to unclip the front lens group). As always, pay particular attention to the lens alignment before disturbing this if you go in.
Although access to the rear surfaces of the shutter and aperture blades is not available without removing the rear lens group (again, an unknown quantity for me with this model, but certainly not recommended with a unit focus model), patiently alternately cleaning the blades with naptha, and wiping off, will eventually pull any muck to the front and give results. This was all I did for both Super Bs with excellent results.
Note that in order to minimise contamination of the front of the rear lens array, if you leave this in situ, I preferred, (rather than flood cleaning the blades, as I otherwise might have), to apply a little naptha to some clean lens tissue, gently wipe the offending blades with this, and then wipe off with clean tissue. A little naptha residue will not hurt the lens providing it is not flooded, and as long as it is carefully cleaned at the end all should be well. Cycle the mechanism from time to time to help to pick up all the goo.
Patience is needed, but after couple of hours of this in front of the TV, success resulted with both cameras, and I've also had great success with other Synchro Compur equipped cameras.
It certainly sounds as though Peter has some excellent first hand knowledge of these early Contaflexes, so I am sure he would be able to add to, or correct any of the above suggestions which I hope may help. I have also found a link to a free copy of the Contaflex 1-4 repair manual on line, please let me know if you require this.
Regards
Brett
Shahin
Established
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59872704@N03/5471873756/
Hi, here are my first shots with my Contaflex IV and I am very happy with it. everything seems to be working well on it.
What do you think?
Hi, here are my first shots with my Contaflex IV and I am very happy with it. everything seems to be working well on it.
What do you think?
Zentralverschluss
Member
Just adjusted the tension. It doesn't seem like it helped
Hello Roberto,
very sorry that adjusting the tension didn´t help.
It´s difficult to make a telediagnosis. As Brett said, there seems to be too much resistance in the aperture-mechanism against the operation of the blades and the lens/shutter unit must be removed for checking out the cause of the trouble / cleaning and repair.
Actually, the shutter with the aperture parts is essentially nothing special - a good repairman with Synchro-Compur experience can overhaul it.
As a matter of course, someone with Contaflex-know-how would be best.
Only the removing of the front lens unit (for cleaning and finally collimating) is a bit tricky and one should know how to do it.
Good luck and best Regards
Peter
Shahin
Established
Yesterday after I came back from the university I went to shoemaker and gave him the NEVERready case from the contaflex and let him do some changes
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59872704@N03/5475614657/
please take a look and tell me what you think.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59872704@N03/5475614657/
please take a look and tell me what you think.
Shahin
Established
What do you think is better, the contaflex Cameras or the Icarex?
Roberto V.
Le surrèalisme, c'est moi
The Icarex is something I definitely want to try, but I haven't used one yet. I've been wanting one for some time now, but I want to buy some Leica M gear first.
Nice modification to the case. The front of my case wasn't in good condition but the bottom was, so I just grabbed my dremel and drilled a hole through the rivet. It looks clean and I now have a half case. It looks so nice in it.
Nice modification to the case. The front of my case wasn't in good condition but the bottom was, so I just grabbed my dremel and drilled a hole through the rivet. It looks clean and I now have a half case. It looks so nice in it.
Shahin
Established
I found out, that the leathes used for the old cases is perfekt and very durable.
i used some creme(for leather) on it an now it is like new.
I red a lot about the icarex and i decided to got for an other contaflex instead.
I have been offered a Contaflex S (the very last contaflex model) for 50 EUR in a B+
Condition with working lightmeter and shutter.
I can`t wait to see hot it works.
I also looked up the history of the cameras and talked to the cameradealer who
serviced some of my fathers older cameras and he told me that the Tessar 50mm
are all the same and have not been changed, only the 45,85... where modified for the BC.
(where you able to open the flickr link i posted?)
i used some creme(for leather) on it an now it is like new.
I red a lot about the icarex and i decided to got for an other contaflex instead.
I have been offered a Contaflex S (the very last contaflex model) for 50 EUR in a B+
Condition with working lightmeter and shutter.
I can`t wait to see hot it works.
I also looked up the history of the cameras and talked to the cameradealer who
serviced some of my fathers older cameras and he told me that the Tessar 50mm
are all the same and have not been changed, only the 45,85... where modified for the BC.
(where you able to open the flickr link i posted?)
Roberto V.
Le surrèalisme, c'est moi
Yeah, I saw your link, it's a very nice job. Mine was missing the round part on the nose of the case and the hinge was pretty worn, so I figured if I ever need a full case, I can buy another one.
Why did you decide on the Contaflex instead of the Icarex?
Why did you decide on the Contaflex instead of the Icarex?
Shahin
Established
The reason why I decided to go for a contaflex instead of a Icarex was, that I loved the idea
of leafshutters and the contaflex IV was one of the last fully mechanical cameras(no batteries) which was very interesting for me.
The other reason was, that my Yashica MG-1 is light and very quiet.....so to compensate that I went for the loudest and heaviest camera of them all (only the icarex is heavier) XD
what do you think of the contaflex s??? It is a super bc with a different name as far as I found out, in good condition it should deliver good pictures.
of leafshutters and the contaflex IV was one of the last fully mechanical cameras(no batteries) which was very interesting for me.
The other reason was, that my Yashica MG-1 is light and very quiet.....so to compensate that I went for the loudest and heaviest camera of them all (only the icarex is heavier) XD
what do you think of the contaflex s??? It is a super bc with a different name as far as I found out, in good condition it should deliver good pictures.
tigerphil
Well-known
I have a contaflex 2 with is a very great camera: Solid as a rock, small, beautiful view finder and great Tessar lens (even wide open at f/2.8). I need to use it more. Also have a mint-looking contaflex B with sticking shutter. I should sell/give that one to someone who will fix and use!