Zeiss Ikon flash firing pretty unreliable

[kiss-o-matic]

I've gone through a few threads here, and am still at a loss when using flash on my Zeiss Ikon ZM. The flash in question is the Sunpak PF20XD. It seems that it will not fire every time... even with fresh batteries. I figured it might be the flash, but I've had very similar results on two Ikons. When I put the same flash on the other camera I had with me (Fujifilm TX-1), it fired every single time... even when the batteries were close to done. Frustrating.

Anything I could be doing wrong? I have the sync option turned off (far left).

 

[Huss]

Are you using the auto sync speed on the camera, or have you tried to manually select a sync speed? 1/125 or slower?

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Are you using the auto sync speed on the camera, or have you tried to manually select a sync speed? 1/125 or slower?

Manually setting it to 1/125 or slower. For the record, it can fire when in A mode, but if it goes faster than 1/125, you only get a portion of the image w/ the flash.

 

[sevo]

It probably is just a matter of different specs, by generation. In my experience, the low voltages and currents on a digital safe flash have a hard time getting through the (often burnt and corroded) high-voltage mechanical contacts on old cameras.

 

[charjohncarter]

You have probably done this but check the PC connections, sometimes they are loose, oxidized, or dirty. Also, set the flash on M rather than X if it has one and check that too. You didn't describe how you are attaching your flash I've had faulty remote hot shoes.

 

[Pioneer]

I am using the Yongnuo 560 and several Vivitar 284hv flash units with my ZI and they are very reliable. I always set the shutter speed at 1/125. I don't know why you would try the A setting.

I am not familiar with the Sunpak you are using but you should be able to set it up to work manually and attach it to the camera through the PC connection rather than the hot shoe.

If neither of those work for you than I would test the camera using another flash that can be used manually. Try borrowing one or the Vivitar 285hv is usually very inexpensive on E-bay, or for a tad more money the Yongnuo flashes have an excellent rep and can be used manually as well. Besides, a second flash unit can be quite useful so it really is not a waste.

If that won't work for you than you are probably looking at a dirty/corroded or defective synchro on the shutter.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

There's no PC Connection. Just a Hot Shoe. Have a gander at the manual.
http://sunpak.jp/english/support/download/pdf/pf20_eng.pdf

I am using the Yongnuo 560 and several Vivitar 284hv flash units with my ZI and they are very reliable. I always set the shutter speed at 1/125.

Am definitely thinking of trying another flash... hopefully something small and cheap. The Sunpak, on paper, is nice. Set your aperture and voila. I'm not shooting fashion models so it doesn't have to be exact. Just using it to fill.

I don't know why you would try the A setting.

To test. And there were a few scenarios when there was no way in hell I would get over 1/125 in A, but would want the ambient light for the background properly metered if possible. Pretty rare though.

If that won't work for you than you are probably looking at a dirty/corroded or defective synchro on the shutter.

I would have thought *something* was defective, but I've tried it on two Ikon's with similar (wonky) results, and one TX-1 with 100% results... at least through a couple of rolls.

 

[Moto-Uno]

^ My limited experience with these older flash contacts ( in the shutter assembly ) are that they are all in rough shape , not all that sealed against mother nature and when used
were with high voltage units ( which could cross these aged surfaces ). That you used another similarly old camera kinda reinforces the similar results you're getting . they're not always hard to access and clean up without too much effort ( fine sandpaper ) My 2 cents . Peter

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Define older. This camera was manufactured from 2005 to 2012 or so. The camera itself is pretty well made, and this second one I've bought seems to be in top shape. On the outside, the contacts looks pretty good as well.

Is there a way to measure the output w/ a multi meter?

 

[charjohncarter]

Define older. This camera was manufactured from 2005 to 2012 or so. The camera itself is pretty well made, and this second one I've bought seems to be in top shape. On the outside, the contacts looks pretty good as well.

Is there a way to measure the output w/ a multi meter?

Yes, run the continuity probes (NOT VOLTAGE) across the posts of your cable on the camera and the remote hot shoe or just the hot shoe if you camera has one. The needle will only jump for a slit second but you will see it. It should work every time. I have had (in much older cameras and older flashes) a flash that will not work with one camera.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Okay, I gotta see if I have a decent multi-meter... last one I remember in my closet was pretty lame. No instructions either.

 

[Moto-Uno]

^^ My bad as they say , never bothered to look past Zeiss Ikon ! Peter

 

[sevo]

Define older. This camera was manufactured from 2005 to 2012 or so.

But at the core it is a derivative of a successful manual focus SLR body whose design is very much late seventies. Its shutter still is mechanically (spring) driven and presumably still has mechanical sync through a contact switch closed when the first curtain reaches the far end. These contacts were originally designed around the 10-30V (with significant current) common of "electronic" AE flashes, but a modern (less that 5V, no current) digital gate signal may fail to bridge the gap created by grease or oxidation on the contact surfaces.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Cheers -- way more info than I can grasp, but I (kinda) get it.

Maybe I should stick with flash that people use here? I dig the Sunapk though -- nice and small.