Lucadomi
Well-known
I recently bought a Zeiss Super Ikonta B (532-16). The rangefinder patch is misaligned vertically. Horizontally is fine. Should I fix this or should I just trust the horizontal alignment?
I don’t want to be engaged in complicated repairs, considering the age of this camera. Hopefully, it is possible to disregard this issue and enjoy the camera.
Does anybody have experience with this camera and this type of problem?
Thank you.
I don’t want to be engaged in complicated repairs, considering the age of this camera. Hopefully, it is possible to disregard this issue and enjoy the camera.
Does anybody have experience with this camera and this type of problem?
Thank you.
elmer3.5
Well-known
Hi, i had the same camera and currently have the zeiss ikon contessa, they share the same kind of rangefinder mechanism.
Had to do the alignment job on this contessa, it´s very painful because it depends on a glass (prism) that rotates in order to achive both alignments vertical and horizontal, so if you do one you have to consider the other until both are in order.
I wouldnt bother unless the infinty alignment is incorrect but by far.
The 532/16 is great for subjects far away (15-20 ft) but painful when doing portraits, i never had the patience to deal with the parallax issue, but´s another story.
Try infinty and if it´s ok, don´t bother, at least not for now. Enjoy the superb lens it has, i had a coated one, wow!!!
Bye and luck!
Had to do the alignment job on this contessa, it´s very painful because it depends on a glass (prism) that rotates in order to achive both alignments vertical and horizontal, so if you do one you have to consider the other until both are in order.
I wouldnt bother unless the infinty alignment is incorrect but by far.
The 532/16 is great for subjects far away (15-20 ft) but painful when doing portraits, i never had the patience to deal with the parallax issue, but´s another story.
Try infinty and if it´s ok, don´t bother, at least not for now. Enjoy the superb lens it has, i had a coated one, wow!!!
Bye and luck!
Lucadomi
Well-known
Thanks Elmer3.5. That's very helpful. I got the camera last night and did not have a chance to try infinity. I will try when I get home tonight. Hopefully it will be ok. The camera looks surprisingly good and I can't wait to try it. I do like to do portraits too, so the parallax is definetly to be considered. I also would like to try the contessa one day.
Any other suggestion is welcomed.
Thanks
Any other suggestion is welcomed.
Thanks
Lucadomi
Well-known
I had a chance to use the camera today. The rangefinder is aligned horizontally also at infinity. Not vertically, unfortunately. I will have to wait and see the results. I got it at bargain conditions and i might return it if the focus will turn out to be off. The camera looks and feels great otherwise. I wish there was an easier way to adjust the rangefinder.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Resurrecting an old thread since the title covers my question 
Got my second (coated!) Zeiss-Ikon Super Ikonta B (532/16) today and while its overall condition is better than the prewar uncoated version I have, the RF is noticeable more dim.
How do I get under the top to clean the RF optics and touch up some parts with matte black paint there? Anybody got any recommendations or a pictorial?
No, I won't touch the RF mirror, don't worry
Eager to shoot it!!
Got my second (coated!) Zeiss-Ikon Super Ikonta B (532/16) today and while its overall condition is better than the prewar uncoated version I have, the RF is noticeable more dim.
How do I get under the top to clean the RF optics and touch up some parts with matte black paint there? Anybody got any recommendations or a pictorial?
No, I won't touch the RF mirror, don't worry
Eager to shoot it!!
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
??
Ten chars
Ten chars
Frontman
Well-known
You need to remove open the viewfinder as though you are using it, and remove the mounting screws (there are three of them on my C model, your B shouldn't be too much different), then you need to remove the small eye piece on the rear (the part you look through to focus), it threads out by turning it counter-clockwise. Then lift the cover off, the optics are easy to clean.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Frontman, Three screws I consider to be candidates are one left side of the RF 'bulge', one in the accessory shoe and one in the film wind.
Is that correct?
There's also two screws in the film counter but I'm thinking the top will clear the whole film counter assembly easily?
EDIT: Never mind, found it!
Nr.3 three screw was under the film counter.
Future reference:
One screw left of the RF 'bulge' (might be covered with black lacquer or wax, or by leather)
One screw under the film counter dial
One screw on top of the film wind dial
The RF assembly is very sturdy, but the prism and see-through mirror are combined: two pieces of glass with the 40-60% reflective layer sealed between them. I'm thinking the Canada balsam in my RF is turning yellow and partly is separating, which accounts for the RF image being unsharp. This is beyond my skills and I might send both my 532/16's over to Certo6.com to have them CLA'd and sorted out. The prewar one could do with new bellows, the postwar one needs a new prism. Both could probably benefit from calibration with the BPM Ikometer if they're over anyway
Is that correct?
There's also two screws in the film counter but I'm thinking the top will clear the whole film counter assembly easily?
EDIT: Never mind, found it!
Nr.3 three screw was under the film counter.
Future reference:
One screw left of the RF 'bulge' (might be covered with black lacquer or wax, or by leather)
One screw under the film counter dial
One screw on top of the film wind dial
The RF assembly is very sturdy, but the prism and see-through mirror are combined: two pieces of glass with the 40-60% reflective layer sealed between them. I'm thinking the Canada balsam in my RF is turning yellow and partly is separating, which accounts for the RF image being unsharp. This is beyond my skills and I might send both my 532/16's over to Certo6.com to have them CLA'd and sorted out. The prewar one could do with new bellows, the postwar one needs a new prism. Both could probably benefit from calibration with the BPM Ikometer if they're over anyway