Zorki 1 troubles!

[einolu]

So I have had a nice zorki 1 for some time now; I got it from Oleg and it works very well, its just that the rangefinder is very very dim. I also have parts zorki 1 that has a very nice rangefinder (bright and contrasty). I was wondering if there is anyway to replace the whole viewfinder/rangefinder top part of the camera, if anybody has ever done it before, and if anybody could help me out with this 'project'.

any replys would be appreciated!

 

[pshinkaw]

There are actually several components that have to be replaced. But, as long as you have matching parts it is fairly straitforward. The hardest part is removing the top w/o scratching it.

-Paul

 

[je2a3]

So I have had a nice zorki 1 for some time now; I got it from Oleg and it works very well, its just that the rangefinder is very very dim. I also have parts zorki 1 that has a very nice rangefinder (bright and contrasty). I was wondering if there is anyway to replace the whole viewfinder/rangefinder top part of the camera, if anybody has ever done it before, and if anybody could help me out with this 'project'. any replys would be appreciated!

Try this, I replaced a couple beam splitter mirrors last year and uploaded my experience doing it. Just be careful handling the good one because the silvering might rub off.

Good luck!

Joseph

 

[einolu]

Wow thanks! Glad there are tinkeres out there like you 🙂.

I will try this at some point next week when I find the time. Might have to pick up a few tools too.

Now my Zorki will be a true russian camera, a frankenstine like thing, heh. I also like it because it will be a mix of a zorki that has been CLAed and has new curtains, and my grandfathers Zorki that has a great viewfinder!

PS: if I dont succeed (or whimp out), do you think Oleg could do the 'transplant'?

 

[je2a3]

Hi Einolu,

It really isn't that difficult to change the beam splitter as long as you can manage to remove the top RF cover. The ring wrench is indispensible if the eyepieces are tight, but try to remove them by hand first since some were just finger tightened.

Actually transplanting the RF assembly can also be done if you don't want to risk handling the mirror but you have to pull out the top and shutter crate from the body which is shown in Jay or Rick Oleson's site. The RF assembly is secured by 5 or 6 "flat head" screws under the top plate. Also there are two versions of the RF assembly one with removable eyepiece tunnel and those that are soldered in place, if you do a transplant make sure the two units are identical. So before going any further remove the RF cover and see what's underneath the two cameras.

I'll admit that my first Zorki 1d with a dim viewfinder was serviced by Oleg and while it was already there I asked him to put strap lugs and a flash synch, now it's a great user!

Joseph

 

[einolu]

I succesfully replaced the mirror, though even after adjustment the vertical alignment is a bit off. I think I will have to go back in and adjust the mirror a little bit. It wasnt as hard as I thought it would be. As I was repairing I cleaned the camera and replaced the old top cover with the one from my grandfathers camera, just for kicks 😀. Thanks for the helpful guide Joseph!

I also just bought a well used Leica IIIa for $120 (I think its a good deal, no?). It might need a little cleaning too, but I think I will just send it to Oleg, heh.

God, I love how those cameras look!

 

[je2a3]

I succesfully replaced the mirror, though even after adjustment the vertical alignment is a bit off. Thanks for the helpful guide Joseph!

The vertical misalignment is not due to the beam splitter. Did you try to adjust the inner RF window mirror with 2 notches? As you turn it CW or CCW the moving image will go up or down sort of in a "circle". After you get the vertical right, you may have to fine tune the horizontal [infinity]. There's a link there to Jay's site on RF adjustment.

I'm glad the transplant was a success!

Joseph

 

[ZorkiKat]

Joseph & Einolu

There would intances (changing the mirror splitter is one) when alignment can't be corrected by turning the rf wedge (that 'glass' over the left rf port). You might have to
adjust the alignment by turning one or more of the screws found on the RF housing. There are at least 4 to be found on the top; each is responsible for aligning one orientation or another. Don't do this until it's certain that the rf image misalignment can no longer be corrected by the rf optical wedge. Got references for doing this correctly

Jay

 

[je2a3]

Joseph & Einolu
There would intances (changing the mirror splitter is one) when alignment can't be corrected by turning the rf wedge (that 'glass' over the left rf port). You might have to
adjust the alignment by turning one or more of the screws found on the RF housing. There are at least 4 to be found on the top; each is responsible for aligning one orientation or another. Don't do this until it's certain that the rf image misalignment can no longer be corrected by the rf optical wedge. Got references for doing this correctly
Jay

Yup, but that's only necessary if the the RF assembly took a serious beating. According to Maizenberg it's a last resort since they were set at the factory to be within tolerance of the optical wedge adjustment. The first time I handled a Zorki 5a I didn't know what to do since it doesn't have an RF wedge until I found out two screws that adjust the "tilt" of the RF prism. Seems like the Zorki 4/4K share similar arrangement....?

Joseph

 

[ZorkiKat]

Yup, but that's only necessary if the the RF assembly took a serious beating. According to Maizenberg it's a last resort since they were set at the factory to be within tolerance of the optical wedge adjustment. The first time I handled a Zorki 5a I didn't know what to do since it doesn't have an RF wedge until I found out two screws that adjust the "tilt" of the RF prism. Seems like the Zorki 4/4K share similar arrangement....?

Joseph

All of them do it one way or another. The Zorki-4 and 4k have large RF assemblies and it isn't even covered anymore. The brass tunnel which enclosed the RF in the prisms and mirrors in the Zorki-1 is gone. There are still screws on top of the prism blocks.

In those times that I replaced the split mirrors, I always had to adjust those aforementioned screws to set the images right. BTW, I silvered my own mirrors- using a recipe I found on the net and used microscope slide glasses for the glass.
The semi-silver coating tarnished in time- the tarnish actually increased the contrast between the images seen in the RF. Were the mirrors you used silver or gilded in colour?

Jay

 

[je2a3]

Were the mirrors you used silver or gilded in colour?
Jay

I got the mirror from Edmund Scientific [it's the 50/50 transmission] and cut it to size. As far as I can tell it's clear [maybe a slight grey?]. With the Leica II the VF window has a yellowish tint so there's contrast. The Zorki and Feds I worked on just looks clear but I don't have trouble with contrast in general although when it's bright it tends to flare but under low light it's better to my eyes than original.

Don't know about resilvering can you post the link? I kept all the original mirrors I replaced.

Joseph

 

[ZorkiKat]

I got the mirror from Edmund Scientific [it's the 50/50 transmission] and cut it to size. As far as I can tell it's clear [maybe a slight grey?]. With the Leica II the VF window has a yellowish tint so there's contrast. The Zorki and Feds I worked on just looks clear but I don't have trouble with contrast in general although when it's bright it tends to flare but under low light it's better to my eyes than original.

Don't know about resilvering can you post the link? I kept all the original mirrors I replaced.

Joseph

Joseph

Will have to look for that link again. Or you could do a search for 'mirror silvering' - the same recipe come up in several sites. Rick Oleson told me to use Edmund's mirrors for this purpose.

The mirrors in FED and Zorki are actually 'gilded' rather than silvered. They are yellowish in tint. The gilding is very easy to remove. Wiping will take out most of it, and wiping it wet will remove everything, as I've painfully found out :bang: ...guess why I had to do the replacements in the first place?? 😀

 

[je2a3]

Joseph
The mirrors in FED and Zorki are actually 'gilded' rather than silvered. They are yellowish in tint. The gilding is very easy to remove. Wiping will take out most of it, and wiping it wet will remove everything, as I've painfully found out :bang: ...guess why I had to do the replacements in the first place?? 😀

Now I understand the gilding part....same here.....that's why I wrote about my DIY experience as penance :angel:

Joseph

 

[einolu]

Hey guys,

The outer ring of the second RF window did it. It took a while to find the right vertical aligment because the movement seemed chaotic at first, but after 15 minutes I found it, then adjusted the infinity again and now I have a perfectly functional zorki 1! With this new mirror and all the insides cleaned out the RF is as contrasty as the one on my Bessa R 😀. Wonder how it will compare to the Leica IIIa I am getting in the mail. I think the thing that I am most looking forward to is the leather (the paint on the zorki 1 is depressing).

Speaking of leather, I actually have a skin for the zorki laying around (from aki-asahi) and would like to put it on the zorki, but I have no idea how to remove the current 'paint job'! Any tips?

 

[je2a3]

Hey guys,
The outer ring of the second RF window did it. It took a while to find the right vertical aligment because the movement seemed chaotic at first, but after 15 minutes I found it, then adjusted the infinity again and now I have a perfectly functional zorki 1!
With this new mirror and all the insides cleaned out the RF is as contrasty as the one on my Bessa R 😀. Wonder how it will compare to the Leica IIIa I am getting in the mail.

Yes, that can do it if you finger tighten the RF wedge and then do the same with the bezel. It will move....

The Leica IIs and IIIa I have has a very slight advantage in VF/RF brightness compared to a clean Zorki or Fed. But a hazy VF/RF on a Leica will pale in comparison to a clean FSU. But now you know what to do 😉

I think the thing that I am most looking forward to is the leather (the paint on the zorki 1 is depressing). Speaking of leather, I actually have a skin for the zorki laying around (from aki-asahi) and would like to put it on the zorki, but I have no idea how to remove the current 'paint job'! Any tips?

Pull the camera out of the body [watch out for lens flange shims and their proper location to assure proper registration upon reassembly] as per Jay or Rick Oleson's and apply paint stripper on the vulcanite as Aki-Asahi recommends. Let it sit for 15-30 minutes and then scrape the vulcanite off. Add more paint stripper if the first coat didn't melt all the vulcanite away. It's very tough!

I presume you have a Zorki 1d since that's the only Z1 releather kit he sells and don't know if he has 1c or 1b kits now. After removing the vulcanite you can also apply masking tape on the "leather area" and spray paint the outer edges of the body and lens flange to do a bang up job. Paint stripper will make the "frame" worse since it will be hard to control overflow to the edges.

OTOH, I've also spray painted just body itself with semi-gloss or flat black which is less time consuming and makes the camera look tidy. I don't like the effect of gloss paint on the vulcanite.

Good luck and post pictures when you are done, it would be a handsome looking camera.

Joseph

 

[einolu]

It might be some time before I get my hands on some paint thinner. I will have to remember to stop by a handware store. If I ever get around to putting the skin on, I will definitely post some pictures (its a pretty "ostrich emboss" skin).

In the long run I wouldnt mind painting the whole thing black or very dark grey. Painting the bottom plate and the rf/viewfinder housing seems simple enough, but I think painting the rest of the top would be a real pain.

 

[ZorkiKat]

It might be some time before I get my hands on some paint thinner. I will have to remember to stop by a handware store. If I ever get around to putting the skin on, I will definitely post some pictures (its a pretty "ostrich emboss" skin).

In the long run I wouldnt mind painting the whole thing black or very dark grey. Painting the bottom plate and the rf/viewfinder housing seems simple enough, but I think painting the rest of the top would be a real pain.

What sort of paintjob are you planning? Are you painting the vulcanite or the entire camera? If it's just faded vulcanite that concerns you, may I suggest that you paint it instead of replacing it? Ordinary black enamel should be a good, long-wearing solution. It would make the vulcanite look good again. Also, painting will not entail any disassembly. The paint-remover method seems to require some sort of disassembly to make sure that none of the solution gets into the camera's works.


Jay

 

[einolu]

No, I am going to take off the 'vulcanite' and will put leather on the camera (using lots of tape and plastic bags while I apply the paint thinner, so that it doesnt take dissasembly). I want to paint the rest of the camera black/grey...