Zorki 4 problem.

[totifoto]

I just got my first rangefinder camera, ran a film through it and everything worked smoothly, until i developed the film 🙁

It got this light shadow on all the frames exept for 2 frames. It lookes like the midle metal piece on the curtain.

Anyone know this problem?

 

[fidget]

Looks like it extends into the rebate of the film, so can't be coming through the curtains. you've got a leak from the back, I'd say.

 

[Xmas]

I'd say Fidget was correct it is not through the gate.

Colour film is useful as it indicates the direction of leak, load the colour in subdued light PVC tape the back seals and shoot of the film in good light.

Normal colour light leak from front (orange or) base colour light unto back of film.

The leak may be occuring unto the film just wound on to the take up spool rather than in the gate.

Noel

 

[fidget]

To add a little, it's useful to wind a few frames on without exposing them, that is fire the shutter with the lens covered for two to three frames. You can be quite confident that what you see didn't come through the lens. When doing this, I leave the camera in light for up to an hour to "attract" leaks. I always do this on a "new" camera. As you know that you have a leak(s), I would be very tempted to combine this with Noels suggestion of taping the back up. You could try taping say, one side then the other, then the back etc so that you have built up a sequence that will indicate where to look next. When you do this, don't forget to tape the turn locks on the bottom, these can let light in giving a similar patern to what you see (although I am very puzzled by the slant on the pattern, which makes it look like a badly behaving shutter, except that it's in the rebates too).

Regards, Dave.....

 

[rick oleson]

My method is similar to Fidget's, but I think maybe a little simpler. I take a fresh roll of film, load it in dim light and advance several frames with the lens covered. Then I make one exposure and, without winding on, expose the camera to sunlight from all directions for some time.

Then I take it back out of the light, cover the lens and advance it all the way to the end of the roll. Without releasing the shutter I place it back into the light again as before. After some time of that, I make the last exposure and take the camera back out of the light for rewinding.

When the film is developed, you can cut 2 short strips with the exposed frame in the middle of each. Place the film in the camera with the exposed frame matching the negative gate, and the leak marks on the film will show you exactly where in the camera the leak(s) are coming from. In case there is a difference between the shutter-cocked and shutter-released conditions, you have one example of each to look at.

 

[totifoto]

Thanx everyone for the advise. I think I found out where the leak is coming from, now I just have to seal it and then take a test roll. 🙂

 

[totifoto]

Took a test roll today, taped the back allround the back but I still got a leak 🙁

When I rewind it the curtain is a litlebit spread ,but not that much that I can see beetwen the curtains, but as it gets closer to the other end it comes together.

Can this be the problem?

 

[rick oleson]

If you just exposed one frame, leaving blank film on both sides, you can identify the source of your leak immediately: just place the film back in the camera with the exposed frame in the film gate and it will point you straight to the leak.

If you exposed the whole roll, it will be more of a crap shoot, and it would probably be easier to reshoot another roll with just a single exposed frame than to try to decode what you've got.

 

[DaveP]

Make sure your finger is not brushing against the shutter speed dial as itt spins, my photos look exactly like yours when I accidently do this.

 

[Xmas]

The slow increase in overlap is normal, Ricks suggestion is best...

Noel