Zorki 4 Top Plate Removal

[clarence]

Hello,

I've searched the threads, googled, and read Rick Oleson's instructions from top to bottom several times.

I still can't remove the top cover from my Zorki 4 after taking out every screw in sight.

Can anyone help?

Thanks.

Clarence

 

[xayraa33]

Did you loosen the tiny screw around the fash syncro dial?
I tend to forget that one sometimes.

 

[xayraa33]

try this thread :http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13942&highlight=grub+screw

 

[xayraa33]

if that link is dead try this one http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13942&highlight=zorki+cleaning

 

[clarence]

I think i've either loosened or broken the head off, but it still won't open. Also, I can't turn the advance knob counter-clockwise enough to remove it.

Clarence

 

[Iyidin_Kyeimo]

you need to take out the holding screw on the advance knob as well, before unscrewing it.

Just taking the cover off an run down zorki 4 I got very cheaply from eBay, here's a list of everything that I had to do:

1) take out screws from the middle of the front and to the left of the back of the cover.

2) loosen holding screws from shutter speed knob and pull that off

3) loosen holding screw from advance know and unscrew it counter-clockwise

4) take out the two screws revealed underneath the advance knob (can be tricky, the two zorki's I've taken apart both had one screw stuck in really tight, keep plenty of downward pressure so you don't slip and ruin the head)

a total of four screws on the table and three more loose but still in their sockets.

hope that helps.. 🙂

 

[clarence]

I decided to put the pliers of my Leatherman to the knob, and with a bit of effort, I could unscrew it. Now the camera's topless. Thanks, guys!

Clarence

 

[Bas]

I also have noticed a difference between my two Zorki 4. One is made in 67 and the other in 69. The 67 model has two screws on the back side of the camera holding the top plate, while the 69 model has only one screw.

Also, the rangefinders have substantial differences in constructions. It seems that the '69 model lacks a lot of material. Also, the '67 model has a small diagonal plate holding a piece of cardboard over the viewfinder section, which is missing on the '69 model.

Now... remember that after taking out the 1 or 2 screw/s of the back, the screw on the front, the wind knob (remember as Iyidin said, to take out the holding screw. Be careful because loosening it lefts as the only hold the hole where it is, so if you drop accidentaly the winding know probably the screw will jump out of it), the two screws under the wind knob and the screws of the speed dial, it can still be hard to take out the top plate. I usually lift one side, and insert a flat screwdriver and turn it to make the other side of the top plate loosen from the main frame.

And, keep turning the wind know. Once that I was cleaning the camera I forgot to take out the holding screw and realized of that after killing a couple of threads... 🙁 So it may be that someone did the same mistake as me before and now it is very hard to take out.

Cheers
Bas.

 

[clarence]

The second shutter curtain is really slow on the slow speeds and sometimes gets stuck. I assume that before attempting any invasive work, I should first try to see if cleaning/lubricating the gears with lighter fluid will solve the problem?

Thanks.

Clarence

 

[Bas]

If the second curtain is slower than the first curtain, BUT the speeds appear to be ok, that's ok, it is how it is supposed to be. The idea is to have a "clash" first curtain and "swoosh" second curtain. In my Zorki the same happens, I have a slow second curtain and a quite quick first curtain. The shutter speeds are very good compared with my Yashica reflex and my old man's Canon A1.

Now, if you see a noticeable difference compared with other cameras when you enter the slow speeds, the yoy may want to adjust the tension of the barrels. This is not easy, but it can be done with not too much effort.

Remember that in the Zorki 4, the first Slow Speed is 1/60, and the last fast speed is 1/30. This sounds strange, but the slow speed mechanism engages in 1/60 and then jumps to 1/15. As Rick Oleson explains, it seem that there were not too much space to put the 1/30 between 1/60 and 1/50, that's why 1/30 is in the opposite side.

Check if the shutter speeds are fine... if they are fine, don't touch the camera I'd say. To reach the needed gears you need to do a more complex disassemble of the camera... you need to take out the lens mount, the whole front cover, the piece that holds the lens mount and the light baffles, and the light baffles. If you do, remember to take a note if the disassemble procedure and where each screw goes.

Another solution is to put some lighter fluid in a small syringe, and put a small drop on the curtain guides. I did not do that since lighter fluid is very aggressive and these cameras are almost 40 years old... mine at least, and i'ts a younger one here 😉

As I said... if the shutter speeds are fine, leave the camera like it is, because it is supposed to be a fast first curtain and a slow second curtain.

I hope this helps!

Cheers
Bas.