lxmike
M2 fan.
Just got a phone call from my father, a neighbour has just given him a Zorki 4 with a Jupiter 8, mall fully working. My father has passed it straight onto me, I pick it up tomorrow
Thomas78
Well-known
Congratulations, a Zorki 4 and a Jupiter 8 are a nice combination. I have a Zorki 4 with an Industar 26. (But not used much up to now.)
Please remember to set the speed AFTER Cocking the shutter. And be careful not to loose the take up spool for the film.
Please remember to set the speed AFTER Cocking the shutter. And be careful not to loose the take up spool for the film.
lxmike
M2 fan.
Many thanks about the tip for the shutter,, good to know
Zorkiiglaza
Established
Ditto on what Thomas78 wrote.
look online and try getting a manual to read or learn all you can about the camera.
The biggest mistake people make with Soviet rangefinder is with the shutter. Change only after winding. I have numerous Zorki 4 and Zorki 4 K cameras.
Usually the shutter speeds are engraved on the dial unlike the later one which are just painted on and slowly wear off.
They are a pleasure to use with a big bright viewfinder and are easier to load than the bottom loading Feds and Zorkis
Enjoy the camera! The price was right!
look online and try getting a manual to read or learn all you can about the camera.
The biggest mistake people make with Soviet rangefinder is with the shutter. Change only after winding. I have numerous Zorki 4 and Zorki 4 K cameras.
Usually the shutter speeds are engraved on the dial unlike the later one which are just painted on and slowly wear off.
They are a pleasure to use with a big bright viewfinder and are easier to load than the bottom loading Feds and Zorkis
Enjoy the camera! The price was right!
lxmike
M2 fan.
I last shot with one in the early 1980's, a friend was really into Russian cameras, but its been a while, thanks for all the tips
wolves3012
Veteran
Enjoy the Zorki 4, it's a capable camera and the Jupiter 8 is a really nice lens. As noted above, pay attention to setting the shutter speed only AFTER cocking it - the Zorki 4 is one of the russian models particularly at risk of damage from not doing so.
If the VF looks blurred, don't forget it has eyepiece dioptre-correction - the small lever on the left, around the rewind-knob!
If the VF looks blurred, don't forget it has eyepiece dioptre-correction - the small lever on the left, around the rewind-knob!
lxmike
M2 fan.
I will let you know how I get on with it
Wulfthari
Well-known
Ehi Wolves, you have PM!
lxmike
M2 fan.
Well the zorki came and the shutter needs a service, it opens but is hesitant to close, however, the jupiter 8 has crystal clear glass, focus was stiff but after some appropriate light lube application and a lotbof manipulation, focussing is now smooth. I will use it on my Leica IIIa.
Thomas78
Well-known
Good to hear that the Jupiter 8 is in a good shape.
Will you do (or let someone do) the service on the Zorki 4?
Before doing critical work I would check the rangefinder accuracy of the combination Leica IIIa and Jupiter 8 at minimum distance. (FSU lenses use the Zeiss standard of 52.3 or 52.4 mm while Leica has 51.6 mm "normal" focal lenght.)
lxmike
M2 fan.
lxmike
M2 fan.
Well after 3 hours or more sitting exercising the focus ring on my j8 it is now very smooth, no stiffness, or rough spot when turning the focus ring
mburns
Established
What counts here is the calibration at infinity. At lesser distances, the Zeiss standard only makes for a 1.6% back focus on Leica cameras.
goamules
Well-known
I thought the Soviet cameras changed to the Leica standard film to flange distance right after WWII. Besides, I've never noticed any problems with J-8s, it was the J-3s people said were a problem, because of their wider aperture and corresponding short depth of field. I just shot a J-8 on a late 1950s Tower/Nicca, and the shots came out fine.
Thomas78
Well-known
Yes, they had the (right) Leica film to flange distance of 28.8 mm.
The different (standard) focal lenght does not matter at infinity (inf) but at close distances (and wide open aperture).
A 51.6 mm lens moves 2.979 mm from inf to 1 m.
A 52.3 mm lens moves 3.065 mm from inf to 1 m.
If you now put a 52.3 mm lens (FSU) on a Leica and adjust the rangefinder at 1 m (NOT the lens scale) the lens ist a 2.979 mm from its inf position and gives a focus at 1.026 m.
This does not seem much difference, but keep in mind that the DOF (circle of confusion 0.03 mm) for a
52.3 mm lens at 1.026 m is 1.011 - 1.041 m at f/1.5 and 1.006 - 1.046 at f/2.0
So at least IN THEORY this might matter for critical focus at close distance open aperture IF both lens and camera are adjustet at their own specifications.
mburns
Established
So if the rangefinder is calibrated to be accurate at 1m instead of at 1.5m, then this can make a significant difference.
(I have found a 1 inch difference in calibration between those two distances on my Yashica.)
(I have found a 1 inch difference in calibration between those two distances on my Yashica.)
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
With cameras you can frighten yourself with theory and then find that in practice it never happens. How often do you shoot at 1 metre distance at f/2 f'instance?
It's a decent camera with the right lens on it and, once checked and sorted - as you are planning, will probably delight you. Luckily it's not a pot luck one off of ebay and has a known history, so things should turn out well.
Regards, David
With cameras you can frighten yourself with theory and then find that in practice it never happens. How often do you shoot at 1 metre distance at f/2 f'instance?
It's a decent camera with the right lens on it and, once checked and sorted - as you are planning, will probably delight you. Luckily it's not a pot luck one off of ebay and has a known history, so things should turn out well.
Regards, David
pete hogan
Well-known
Good summary of the situation from Garrett, Thomas78, and David. It's good to be aware of the real limitations in any equipment you use, but there are many factors like wear and vision which can affect the results too. (There was a very heated debate on this J-8 backfocus precision topic on pnet a couple of years ago.)
Shooting shows that a Jupiter-8 will nearly always deliver a pleasingly sharp image, like from my IIf. Of course most of mine are f/8, 11, or 16 and DoF is loose. And I print with a Photosmart at 4x6 and view on an iPad, recognizing that's not too demanding an application. The results are as good as I want.
Shooting shows that a Jupiter-8 will nearly always deliver a pleasingly sharp image, like from my IIf. Of course most of mine are f/8, 11, or 16 and DoF is loose. And I print with a Photosmart at 4x6 and view on an iPad, recognizing that's not too demanding an application. The results are as good as I want.
AndersG
Well-known
This grainy shot taken with my Jupiter-8 at f/2.8 on my Canon 7 might represent one of the troublesome cases. As far as I recall I focused on the tip of the nose and focus is not that far behind that spot. Still, I would not know where to place the blame for the slight focus discrepancy between me interpreting the rangefinder patch, recomposing slightly, ordinary finger trouble and any difference in rangefinder calibration.
