Zorki 4K - "How to CLA"

POSTI-Tuomo said:
I would like to see a CLA guide for the Zorki 1! That's an undertaking I've been contemplating on for some time now. Being a newcomer to the whole RF business all help would be most welcome.

With the winter coming, I really need to remove the old lubes from the gears and such to prevent jams... I know there's Jay Fedka's guide on his site, but I'd like to see your approach on the matter as well.
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Well the "one" is running very nicely at the moment after some minor CLA work initially, plus it has film in it, so don't hold your breath! I'll bear it in mind, though Jay's site is a superb resource. I might use the FED instead though, which does need curtains and is more or less identical. To be honest, it's really quite a simple camera with nothing to trap the unwary really. If you're comfortable with a small screwdriver, go for it.
 
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Sure, thanks for the encouragement. In fact, I drew up a list of the equipment needed. It's as follows:

- a set of small screwdrivers (1, 2 and 3 mm)
- pliers (round nosed, flat nosed?)
- a small spanner
- tweezers
- picks made out of kebab sticks (to clean the I-22 lens threads)
- a rubber mat
- some small brushes (does the hair have to be natural or will artificial hair do?)
- lighter petrol
- oil (what types are acceptable, bear in mind the camera is going to be used in sub-zero temps)
- some Blu-Tack to hold the parts neatly in place
- a deep and broad tray
- and a digital camera to record the process

Is there anything that I have missed? What do I need to clean the lens? Are chemicals to be used on it, or is that a strict no-no? Don't want to start without any critical instruments!
 
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Tuomo

Pliers 2 off,
pointy (needle) nosed, ground (filed) off to seat on lens rings
smooth faced to hold things without marr
washing up or thinner material rubber glove, to protect things held with pliers

The close focus stop may need gloves and pliers to undo, the threaded part is very small and easy to snap.

I use PTFE liquid rether then oil, for stability given there may be some wax remaining and it might react with a mineral oil. The PTFE is not a real oil but the old wax and PTFE shold be ok even cold.

It does not get cold here.

Noel
 
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POSTI-Tuomo said:
Sure, thanks for the encouragement. In fact, I drew up a list of the equipment needed. It's as follows:

- a set of small screwdrivers (1, 2 and 3 mm)
- pliers (round nosed, flat nosed?)
- a small spanner
- tweezers
- picks made out of kebab sticks (to clean the I-22 lens threads)
- a rubber mat
- some small brushes (does the hair have to be natural or will artificial hair do?)
- lighter petrol
- oil (what types are acceptable, bear in mind the camera is going to be used in sub-zero temps)
- some Blu-Tack to hold the parts neatly in place
- a deep and broad tray
- and a digital camera to record the process

Is there anything that I have missed? What do I need to clean the lens? Are chemicals to be used on it, or is that a strict no-no? Don't want to start without any critical instruments!
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I think you have covered what you will need. Brushes don't need to be natural hair provided the petrol does not affect them (it shouldn't). Pliers should be sharp-nosed. Rubber or plastic sleeving over the jaws is useful for some jobs.

As for oils, you'll need very thin oil such as watch/clock oil, especially for low temperatures. Better still is a silicone oil if you can source it. For gears I always use a silcone-based grease since it doesn't age or dry up. I can't recommend a source in Finland, but Maplin electronics in UK does a small tube that contains plenty.

I'd leave the optics alone unless they are very bad - re-assembling a lens is tricky and almost impossible to do dust-free. it's also very easy to scratch coatings with a slipped spanner etc. Use alcohol to clean lens elements and a very soft cloth. Be gentle and don't flood assembled lenses.

Maybe a separate thread for this would be a good move, since it's not a Zorki 4/4K we are discussing?
 
Thanks for the responses: I think this covers all my questions for now. I'll make a separate topic once I get the CLA job underway and finished. Now, back to the topic; you people can take over from here on :).
 
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Great.. this is right up my alley since my zorki 4k had stalled some time ago and was meaning to do something about it.i REALLY MISSED MY ZORKI :( Excellent start for me!

Thankyou wolves3012
 
Hi all,
I was delighted to browse wolves' amazing description months after initial posting... along with instructions and photos. No, I do NOT intend to strip my two Z4's, yet I do appreciate knowing what makes them tick.

See my new Thread question on Z4 shutter care.
Cheers
 
Wolves, fantastic job: very detailed and excellent illustrations, thank you for the effort!

I would just add that it's useful when one of pliers is with copper/brass lips. Sometimes you need to use them on chrome parts, and those will not leave any scratches.
 
great instructions. but i had a little accident. the spring under the wind lever has got completely unwind and fall out. how can i put it back? how can i wind it? hhave you any photos of its original position?
 
in pictur 47 and 48 are suposed to be curtains right? how did you remove them? can be the drum removed and how? because i have a little problem with curtain that is suposed to be wraped around the drum
 
persefonia said:
great instructions. but i had a little accident. the spring under the wind lever has got completely unwind and fall out. how can i put it back? how can i wind it? hhave you any photos of its original position?
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Yes that's happened to me too! There are pictures of the spring in its correct position if you look above. You have to wind it back around the bobbin, carefully. I'd suggest some thin leather gloves or great care, you will cut your fingers very easily. Once wound around the bobbin, insert the pin as described above. The inner end of the spring hooks around a pin on the bobbin, by the way and the spring winds clockwise onto it (from memory!).
 
persefonia said:
in pictur 47 and 48 are suposed to be curtains right? how did you remove them? can be the drum removed and how? because i have a little problem with curtain that is suposed to be wraped around the drum
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Those pictures show the drum but without the curtains (it was a parts camera) to show the places to lubricate. The curtains came off with some gentle pulling, they aren't held very tightly by the glue and they don't need to be. If you have unglued curtains you need to look very carefully to see where they used to be attached. The correct position of the curtain end on the drum is critical if the shutter is to work properly.
 
wolves3012 said:
Those pictures show the drum but without the curtains (it was a parts camera) to show the places to lubricate. The curtains came off with some gentle pulling, they aren't held very tightly by the glue and they don't need to be. If you have unglued curtains you need to look very carefully to see where they used to be attached. The correct position of the curtain end on the drum is critical if the shutter is to work properly.
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thanks for the spring instruction, i have succesfully put it back. now i just need to know how to remove the drum. it wasn't curtain that unglued but two tapes(strings) that are supposed to pull curtain forward and backward(attached on the top and the bottom of curtain), so i have to take the whole drumm out so i can put tapes back in their position and glue them
 
persefonia said:
thanks for the spring instruction, i have succesfully put it back. now i just need to know how to remove the drum. it wasn't curtain that unglued but two tapes(strings) that are supposed to pull curtain forward and backward(attached on the top and the bottom of curtain), so i have to take the whole drumm out so i can put tapes back in their position and glue them
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To do this you need to remove the top plate. After removing the flash sync/slow-speed stuff etc on the top plate, take off the rangefinder. Under it there is a screw to be removed. Next remove another screw near the pillar for the shutter release/rewind collar. I think there are just those two that retain the top plate as long as the body front is removed. Lift it off carefully since several parts will fall out. Note the pin in the shutter mechanism that engages in the shutter drum, it will have to be replaced in the same position. Ditto the restrictor gear on the bottom of the drum.

Good luck!
 
PDF file

PDF file

wolves3012 said:
Zorki 4K "HOW TO - CLA" here. hope you like it!

NOTE 1 - most photos will be in the posts below the sections - there are more than 5
photos in most sections!

NOTE 2: You can use this for a Zorki 4 as well. Apart from the winder, the two models are identical. To remove the winder knob on the Zorki 4, slacken the small grub-screw in it and then unscrew it. Ignore the parts about the rewind lever and its associated gears thereafter.

UPDATE: freeranger has kindly turned this thread into a PDF file, which can be found at:
http://www.fileupyours.com/files/102206/zorki4cla.pdf
Thanks freeranger
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I have tried to open the PDF file using the link but I am told that no such file exists!

Have you any more info, please?

Peter:confused:
 
PMR said:
I have tried to open the PDF file using the link but I am told that no such file exists!

Have you any more info, please?

Peter:confused:
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The link got changed I'm afraid, although I thought there was an alternative. I didn't create the pdf file, another member did that. There's nothing in the pdf that isn't in the thread though.
 
sooner said:
Haven't followed this thread, but in my opinion the best way to CLA a Zorki is to buy a Bessa R!
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Buying a Bessa R patently doesn't achieve a CLA on a Zorki 4. Your point is what? The Bessa replaces everyone's Zorki 4, perhaps? How dull that would be!

Thankfully, some of us actually like these cameras, otherwise they'd all be junked and history would be lost.
 
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