Zorki 4k Shutter speed Dial

Yeah I'll check out the options - it would be nice to be able to fix things myself. Thanks for all your help.
 
Dom, as I mentioned earlier, I don't use my Zorki 4K, I prefer to use the Zorki 4, and I haven't used that for over a year. I had thought that I should trim down some of my unused kit. this being one of them. This near mint 4K would be available without the standard lens, but may be of interest to you?? Send me a PM if interested.

Dave....
 
dom said:
Yeah I'll check out the options - it would be nice to be able to fix things myself. Thanks for all your help.
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I'm just in the process of finishing off a "how to" based on my experiences of 4K CLA, which I was intending to put on here. If you fancy a go and aren't scared of a screwdriver the 4K is an easy strip.

Two things: (1) if you find the slow-speed escapement is damaged I have a spare in working (not pristine) order or (2) if you are really, really stuck I'd be prepared to have a peek and see if I can suss it, for postage costs. Taking it to a professional is certainly going to work out more than the value.
 
fidget said:
Yes, selecting slow speeds causes the knob to sit higher, this is what catches the mechanism when the shutter is released. And as you change speeds in the slow speed section, you wind/unwind the clockwork mechanism, so any damage here and you might not be able to change speed.....Sorry, posted before reading responses. I wonder if (also) crap is filling the selector hole (or is it a slot on these?) so that the bit that engages the slow speed mechanism is hit when it shouldn't be. So should we check that the selector knob will drop far enough? But, anyway, it's looking like a strip is reqd. The slow speed mech may be damaged (but who needs it anyway???)
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It is a slot, as you thought. The knob sits higher on 1/60: moving from 1/125 to 1/60 is where it has to be lifted higher. At 1/60 the selector touches the slow-speed winding pin but doesn't actually wind it. 1/30 or slower is where it does get wound. Winding the mechanism to any degree engages the lever that blocks the second curtain release until the mechanism unwinds back to its resting position.

As you say, it's in need of a peek to see the true cause....
 
Hey Wolves3012,
a Z4K/Z4 CLA How-To. That would be great. There's a lot of experience and talent within these forums, it's so good to see that members are willing to share their knowledge and experience.
(it's not your birthday today is it? 30/12)

Dave...
 
fidget said:
Hey Wolves3012, a Z4K/Z4 CLA How-To. That would be great.
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Let me echo fidget's sentiment! Good for you! The more documented personal experiene available, the better.
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dom, not to worry. It's a great, fun gift you've recieved and it'll work out. At first the thought of "fixing" one of these seems overwhelming, but remember that one reason some of these old FSU.RFs have survived this long is because they just aren't that complicated and a lot of simple repairs can be done at home. (...he says, as he looks down to see staring back at him, the pretty yet stubborn Zorki.3M he's been mis-adjusting for a MONTH!! . :( ) Hang in there and keep asking questions with these guys. They're quite a patient and willing bunch. :angel:
 
fidget said:
Hey Wolves3012,
a Z4K/Z4 CLA How-To. That would be great. There's a lot of experience and talent within these forums, it's so good to see that members are willing to share their knowledge and experience.
(it's not your birthday today is it? 30/12)

Dave...
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Erm, yes it might just be my birthday - top marks for observation - I just hit the half-century! :eek:
 
wolves3012 said:
Erm, yes it might just be my birthday - top marks for observation - I just hit the half-century! :eek:
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Congratulations!!!!! Now you can be extra rude to young and spotty shop assistants and the like, and maybe you could treat yourself to a few cameras. I bet there's one on your wish list!

Enjoy, all the best....
 
Hello again
you'll never believe it. I bought another 4K (this time with a J8). The seller had rolled a film through it etc.
However, I have managed to jam the shutter speed dial on 1/125.....AGAIN!
I honestly think I have not done anything wrong - I always check that the camera has been wound on before changing the speed, but the moment it clicks into that 1/125 slot it ain't coming out (until a picture has been taken, then it can be lifted out and wound on)
How bizarre - i'll have to read the tutorial, but has anyone had any other ideas further to the discussion so far?

Thanks

Dom
 
Someone before mentioned that the slow-speed mechanism gets wound only for 1/15, but that isn't true. Actually the first "slow speed" which uses the escapement is 1/60. Why? I have no idea, but notice that already at 1/60 the shutter speed knob sits higher and winds the escapement...

So the pin should get engaged somewhere between 1/125 and 1/60, but there is little space between these two speeds... and if the slow-speed escapement slips and unwinds a bit - the escapement actuating pin sits right above the shutter speed selecting pin when you set the shutter speed to 1/125...

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For someone with experience this would be an hour repair - removal of the top taking the longest part of that.

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To get this back to working order you have to move the sprocket wheel with pin one or two teeth in direction towards the slow speeds without moving the cam (previous picture). You have to separate the sprocket into 2 parts - (it can be unscrewed - the top and the bottom part) and then move it the one or 2 teeth and screw it together again...

It takes some time to understand the mechanism and my advices as well :D, but I know what I'm talking about. I played with it for really long time on one Zorki-4 which I bought in terrible shape. At the end all speeds but 1s were what I'd call "within tolerances" or "as good as it gets" :D
 
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I am having the same problem on a Fed-3, shutter speed selector gets stuck on 125, how can I move the pin sprocket without moving the cam?
 
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