Zorki 4K speed dial don't turn.

[Zorki74]

Hi,

I recently bought Zorki 4K and everything was great but yesterday I shot few pictures with 1/125 shutter speed (I normally shoot 1/250 due to film speed) and today I was trying to change shutter speed but it won't move.

Speed dial can be lifted but it's not possible to turn it. For sure the camera needs CLA as it hasn't been cleaned for many years as last owner haven't cleaned it as well. It it possible that it's due to some dirt? 1/30 also wasn't work properly (sometimes works as 1/30, sometimes as B) but I usually shoot in good light and wanted to run one roll through it.

I have never turned speed dial before cocking the shutter speed.

Sorry, I have seen similar topic from few years ago but no cure was found then that's why I open this new thread.

Besides that camera works great on this speed and I haven't noticed any other changes.

I know there is a lot of experienced users on this forum and I will be grateful for your help.

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Z4k

Z4k

Did you have a look at the DIY pages. The Zorki 4K is quite easy to work on.

 

[Zorki74]

Hi Ron,

Thank you for your reply. I have seen DIY on this website and it seems that you can really dismantle Zorki completely and put it back together again. How hard it is? Is there anything I should be particularly careful about?

Also I'm thinking should I shoot this roll to the end or it's better to rewind it (I'm half way through)? Let me know what do you think 🙂

 

[apostasiometritis]

The only tricky bit is putting the advance lever spring back, just need patience and method, ie think before doing it.

As for what is actually wrong, I remember that it has happened to me once, taking it apart and playing with the rewind/shutter release fixed it. Just frustrating when it happens with film in.

If you *really* want that film, make a note of what frame you are at, rewind carefully till you stop feeling resistance; that will leave the leader out. When/if you fix it, put the film back, put aperture at 22 and with the lens cap on, advance to the point you were. Worst case scenario you'll have a couple of double exposures!

Sorry to not be very specific, but it is truly one of the easiest cameras to work with. Just make sure you got all the tools, don't attempt it without a decent set of screwdrivers.

Clean up the viewfinder and rangefinder windows/mirror while you're at it, spray some WD40 to the film advance gears & slow speed mechanism as well! It will make it a lot smoother.

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

The only tricky bit is putting the advance lever spring back, just need patience and method, ie think before doing it.

As for what is actually wrong, I remember that it has happened to me once, taking it apart and playing with the rewind/shutter release fixed it. Just frustrating when it happens with film in.

If you *really* want that film, make a note of what frame you are at, rewind carefully till you stop feeling resistance; that will leave the leader out. When/if you fix it, put the film back, put aperture at 22 and with the lens cap on, advance to the point you were. Worst case scenario you'll have a couple of double exposures!

Sorry to not be very specific, but it is truly one of the easiest cameras to work with. Just make sure you got all the tools, don't attempt it without a decent set of screwdrivers.

Clean up the viewfinder and rangefinder windows/mirror while you're at it, spray some WD40 to the film advance gears & slow speed mechanism as well! It will make it a lot smoother.

+ 1 indeed the tricky thing is to not let slip the spring in the winding mechanism. Further - which I do many times when testing a camera with film - in order to reduce cost I always have the film half finished and shoot the other half in another camera that needs some test shots...take an extra winding in between after putting the film in the second body and winding on until half the film.

 

[wolves3012]

Apart from the WD40, I agree with the above. Please do NOT use WD40, it dries to a sticky consistency and is not suitable. Use grease and thin or thick oil, as appropriate. For the winder gears, a lightweight grease is best.

If you read the sticky at the top of the sub-forum, you will not have much difficulty disassembling the 4K. Please read carefully the part about the rewind spring. If you do not follow that carefully, it WILL fly off! By the way, I seem to recall coming across your exact problem myself. I took the top off again, removed and re-fitted the slow-speed escapement and all was well. I suspect that it can foul the speed-selector mechanism unless positioned exactly. However, once assembled it is impossible to see if that is the case so I cannot be sure.

 

[apostasiometritis]

Apart from the WD40, I agree with the above. Please do NOT use WD40, it dries to a sticky consistency and is not suitable. Use grease and thin or thick oil, as appropriate. For the winder gears, a lightweight grease is best.

That’s odd, I never had an issue with WD40. Then again, I usually take it apart and clean it at least once a year. what kind of thin oil would you suggest (if there is any specific you’re using)? I’ll give it a try next round.

 

[Zorki74]

Thank you for your replies. I will have to prepare tools and study DIY. Also good idea about reusing film. I will certainly do it.

While we are on the subject of shutter speed dial, I've noticed that that shutter speeds printed on the dial don't match line on the selecting knob. Is it something that can be regulated while doing CLA?

 

[wolves3012]

While we are on the subject of shutter speed dial, I've noticed that that shutter speeds printed on the dial don't match line on the selecting knob. Is it something that can be regulated while doing CLA?

Yes, quite simple. Slacken the tiny grub-screws (set screws) around the edge of the dial - don't take them out, just slacken them. You'll find that you can turn the dial freely now. Align it correctly and re-tighten the screws. Job done. You'll have to do this anyway as one of the last steps of re-assembly, so you might want to wait.

 

[wolves3012]

That’s odd, I never had an issue with WD40. Then again, I usually take it apart and clean it at least once a year. what kind of thin oil would you suggest (if there is any specific you’re using)? I’ll give it a try next round.

WD40 is not intended as a long-term lubricant, it's primarily a water-dispersant/penetrating oil:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wd40

On FSU cameras, for winder gears I use Castrol LM, which is a light automotive grease. For shutter bearings and pivots I use a precision oiler which came with a lightweight mineral oil and for things like slow-speed mechanisms I use a quality clock/watch oil. You can use something like 3-in-1 oil (or an equivalent) instead of clock oil but it needs to be thin for the escapements.

 

[BradM]

WD40 should be used on ... military vehicles and that's it. Wolves3012 is right with what he uses. I also use quality silicon spray on some parts but I'd never use WD40.

 

[Zorki74]

Great! wolves3012, apostasiometritis, Ron (Netherlands), thank you all for your replies 🙂 . It was extremely helpful, I try to follow your advices and maybe I will post pictures of my CLA to contribute to the community 🙂