Zorki-4K with Nikkor 85mm/2.0

[raid]

I used this combination recently, and I got back a roll of slide film with the results. I was not too careful with framing, and using the Zorki-4k resulted in a few unintended chopped off scalps!

Anyways, I have played with the slides to see whether leaving the colors intact looks better versus changing the colors to Sepia with PS.
Both have nice flavors but they are different.

I got the 85mm Nikkor from Roland (thanks) and I got the Zorki-4k on nelsonfoto.com (thanks). Most shots were taken around 2.0~2.8 when possible.

I now know that I need to better frame my portraits of my daughters in the future, but as most Dads, I am always happy with my family photos 🙂 Sometimes I try to get such images by my wife as "artistic", but she does not buy this excuse.

I am now leaning towards using slide film again as I have exclusively been doing in the past. The colors come out just as they were when I took the photos and the overall control over the exposure is of course the main reason for slide photography [for me].


Your input is always welcome, even if negative. [no pun intended] :angel:



Raid

 

[robin a]

Raid,I like the color.......Robin

 

[dazedgonebye]

I've got no problem with the "crop."
So, you like that lens I take it?

 

[Ash]

Great pics.

I ran possibly my last roll through my Zorki-4k this afternoon. They're really nice cameras to handle. Pity they're so loud

 

[rbiemer]

Lovely portraits even with the "scalping". Raid! My preference is for the color versions as well. Learning the 85/90 framing is (well for me any way) an on going exercise. The one thing I have the hardest time remembering is to adjust the external VF to the distance I've focused at. Depending on which(if any) VF one is using, there is more or less precision--the FSU turret finder I have has basically two marks; infinity and 1 meter. I also have had some fun switching between a lens marked in meters and a VF marked in feet.
If you were not using an external VF, then I am honestly impressed!
Rob

 

[dll927]

Using slide film won't do a thing for the framing - that's part of the construction of the camera. If you're going to use something different from a 50mm lens on a Zorki of any stripe, you need a viewfinder for that focal length. Accessory viewfinders fit into the accessory shoe on top of the camera. Or you can get an M-series Leica, which has frames built-in for certain lenses other than 50mm.

For the Zorki, another solution would be one of the "turret" finders that have several (usually five) different focal lengths available. The Soviet versions aren't alwasy as accurate as the genuine Leica ones were, but they may be better than depriving your daughters of their hair-do's.

 

[raid]

I've got no problem with the "crop."
So, you like that lens I take it?

The Sonnar design 85mm Nikkor lens is very good for portraits. I prefer the
85mm~90mm to the 105mm length of a Nikkor 105mm/2.5. Roland has both lenses, and there was a recent thread on them by him. While the 105mm is good with an SLR camera, I perfer slightly shorter lenses with a rangefinder camera.

Raid

 

[raid]

Lovely portraits even with the "scalping". Raid! My preference is for the color versions as well. Learning the 85/90 framing is (well for me any way) an on going exercise. The one thing I have the hardest time remembering is to adjust the external VF to the distance I've focused at. Depending on which(if any) VF one is using, there is more or less precision--the FSU turret finder I have has basically two marks; infinity and 1 meter. I also have had some fun switching between a lens marked in meters and a VF marked in feet.
If you were not using an external VF, then I am honestly impressed!
Rob

Rob: Some of the older external multi-focal length finders actually change position as I take photos, so I may end up with a 5cm view when in fact the lens used is a 85mm lens. This can be rather problematic. I agree with you regarding the tendency to forget adjusting the distance lever on these finders. I don't think that I ever take them away from the infinity setting. This is another thing to worry about next time.

Don't be overly impressed; I was using some type of external viewer. :bang:

Raid

 

[ampguy]

Hi Raid, great photos, I like the color ones the best. Did you scan the slides yourself, or have a lab/store do it?

Does your Nikkor work ok on an M body, or does that ~1mm fsu/m issue affect close focus?

 

[raid]

Great pics.

I ran possibly my last roll through my Zorki-4k this afternoon. They're really nice cameras to handle. Pity they're so loud

Ash: Thanks. The film advance seems to be super smooth in my Zorki-4K. I still hate the rewind mechanism/switch in this camera.

Raid

 

[raid]

Hi Raid, great photos, I like the color ones the best. Did you scan the slides yourself, or have a lab/store do it?

Does your Nikkor work ok on an M body, or does that ~1mm fsu/m issue affect close focus?

ampguy: Thanks. I used a Nikon Coolscan III to scan the slides myself. People who are deep into digital stuff will change their equipemnt regulalrly, so I asked for a discount scanner online, and someone sold me his used Coolscan III. I like it for my limited use.

The Nikkor works on my M3 and M6. Maybe Roland could comment on such questions since he has been using the Nikkors for some time.


Raid

 

[rbiemer]

Raid,
In a situation like the one you showed us--with your daughter somewhat static, seems like you could have "foreknowledge" of the distance and set the VF accordingly. Probably for most of the time she is much too active for that kind of presetting, though!
Rob

 

[ampguy]

Thanks Raid

Thanks Raid

Your scanning setup works great. I might be missing something, but why not use your m3 or m6 with the non-50 lenses to get built in framelines, and use the Zorki with 50mm lenses?

ampguy: Thanks. I used a Nikon Coolscan III to scan the slides myself. People who are deep into digital stuff will change their equipemnt regulalrly, so I asked for a discount scanner online, and someone sold me his used Coolscan III. I like it for my limited use.

The Nikkor works on my M3 and M6. Maybe Roland could comment on such questions since he has been using the Nikkors for some time.


Raid

 

[raid]

Raid,
In a situation like the one you showed us--with your daughter somewhat static, seems like you could have "foreknowledge" of the distance and set the VF accordingly. Probably for most of the time she is much too active for that kind of presetting, though!
Rob

Rob: I offer no excuses here. I need to better use the external finders. This is especially applicable to tele photos and close focusing.

I have two more shots here. In all shots I find sharpness lacking.


http://gallery.photo.net/photo/5149330-lg.jpg

http://gallery.photo.net/photo/5149332-lg.jpg

Raid

 

[raid]

Your scanning setup works great. I might be missing something, but why not use your m3 or m6 with the non-50 lenses to get built in framelines, and use the Zorki with 50mm lenses?

ampguy: I use so many cameras because I enjoy using different cameras each week. What you say makes a lot of sense though. I think that what happened was this; I saw a Zorki loaded with film sitting on a table, and I saw my daughter bored, so I decided to quickly place a tele lens on the Zorki to finish the roll of film in it. After each use of a non-M, I appreciate the M even more.

Raid

 

[BillBingham2]

I like the first ones just as well as the second batch. I am switching over to my M6 classic now partially because I like the speed of built in frame lines.

Take out a tape measure and try the lens to see where she focuses. Take shots that are focused at the 12 inch mark on the tape from 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, and 15 feet away wide open. Use a tripod to make sure you do not sway. Might be a lot of different things that are giving you less than the sharpness you want.

Do you have the same issue closed down to say f8?

Great shots and a wonderful subject.

B2 (;->

 

[raid]

Bill: I have a feeling that the reason for lack of sharpness is the mismatch between the Zorki-4k camera and the Nikkor lens. This lens gave me sharp results when used on any M body I have.

Raid

 

[BillBingham2]

Not a surprise. I've heard the same from lots of folk. My Fed-2 seems to be fine (within DOF on every lens), but slightly different from my Ms (which are spot on).

B2 (;->

 

[raid]

I may have to do some testing here. With theM3, I am sure that I get sharp results with my M and LTM lenses.


Raid

 

[raid]

Raid, I used this lens on my M3 and it generated very sharp photos. I also sent you email with some pointers.

You can easily check RF/lens match by putting the camera on a tripod, setting the lens at 2m or less, and moving the tripod
back and forth until the RF patch is "in focus" for a given object (I take a door frame, typically). Then you take a
measurement tape and measure distance between object and film plane and compare to what the lens says.
The Nikkor distance scales are very accurate, with my M3 this setup was only a quarter to half inch off or so.

Nice pictures though. I like the sepia tone and the ones where only part of the face is shown.

Roland.

Roland: Thanks for the email and forthe tips above. Your photos taken with this lens are sharp. I will use this lens on the M6 next. As fo rthe Zorki, I put a Russian lens on it.

Regards,

Raid