tho60
Well-known
Hello!
I have bought a Zorki-6. My "new" camera is from 1964, but its curtains are blocked by dirt. Zorki-6 has a very intricated internal structure due to its monobloc shutter-camera part. A thorough cleaning is required, but how could I reach the shutter gears without a difficult disassembly maneuver?
I have read the terrific thread by TVphotog, but this question remained open for me.
Thanks
I have bought a Zorki-6. My "new" camera is from 1964, but its curtains are blocked by dirt. Zorki-6 has a very intricated internal structure due to its monobloc shutter-camera part. A thorough cleaning is required, but how could I reach the shutter gears without a difficult disassembly maneuver?
I have read the terrific thread by TVphotog, but this question remained open for me.
Thanks
fidget
Lemon magnet
You can see a lot when the top casing is off. The restrictor gear is on the bottom, under the cover.
Your first challenge is to remove the threaded collar around the film counter/shutter release button. It's a left hand thread. When removing it, you are turning against the winding gears and ratchet/peg stop. If you are unlucky, these may give way before the collar is slackened.
Dave
Your first challenge is to remove the threaded collar around the film counter/shutter release button. It's a left hand thread. When removing it, you are turning against the winding gears and ratchet/peg stop. If you are unlucky, these may give way before the collar is slackened.
Dave
Valkir1987
Well-known
Dear Tho 6,
Congratulations with your Zorki 6. I use one as my first shooter. It's in my opinion a very well built example of the Zorki series. Properly taken care of they can work as smooth as a watch.
The best way to reach the shutter mechanism for full cleaning and lubricating, is however the difficult way. You might consider oiling all visible axes and joints when the top and bottom covers are removed, but the main drum needs to be taken apart for correct lubrication.
A full CLA on this camera is definitely worth the time/patience/experience or money you put into it. When you decide to do it yourself, persist and recieve your experience in return.
With kind regards,
Valkir
Congratulations with your Zorki 6. I use one as my first shooter. It's in my opinion a very well built example of the Zorki series. Properly taken care of they can work as smooth as a watch.
The best way to reach the shutter mechanism for full cleaning and lubricating, is however the difficult way. You might consider oiling all visible axes and joints when the top and bottom covers are removed, but the main drum needs to be taken apart for correct lubrication.
A full CLA on this camera is definitely worth the time/patience/experience or money you put into it. When you decide to do it yourself, persist and recieve your experience in return.
With kind regards,
Valkir
tho60
Well-known
Hello!
I guess that I have repaired my Zorki-6. I pumped some petrol with syringe to the ends of the rollers and gears until the dried lubricants were flushed out. I did not take apart the camera; I just removed the lens and “attacked” from the front, through the lens mount. Having cleaned the key points I applied some brake fluid as new lubricant. Now the curtains are free and CRT tester shows that shutter speeds are quite accurate. After doing this, I aligned the RF both horizontally and vertically. Eventually I fixed the rewind knob- it had been twisted and the film type reminder could not rotate.
However, when I tested the camera with a test roll, I noticed a very peculiar problem. After some shots the sprockets mangle the perforation so I could not advance the film anymore. I wasted two rolls and I see that this malfunction occurs before the end of the film (after shooting 22 or 34 frames). The sprockets damage the perforation at the beginning as well, but they do not vandalize it utterly.
What could you propose?
I guess that I have repaired my Zorki-6. I pumped some petrol with syringe to the ends of the rollers and gears until the dried lubricants were flushed out. I did not take apart the camera; I just removed the lens and “attacked” from the front, through the lens mount. Having cleaned the key points I applied some brake fluid as new lubricant. Now the curtains are free and CRT tester shows that shutter speeds are quite accurate. After doing this, I aligned the RF both horizontally and vertically. Eventually I fixed the rewind knob- it had been twisted and the film type reminder could not rotate.
However, when I tested the camera with a test roll, I noticed a very peculiar problem. After some shots the sprockets mangle the perforation so I could not advance the film anymore. I wasted two rolls and I see that this malfunction occurs before the end of the film (after shooting 22 or 34 frames). The sprockets damage the perforation at the beginning as well, but they do not vandalize it utterly.
What could you propose?
fidget
Lemon magnet
Is the film take-up spool clutch too tight? Can you hold the spool with your finger and stop it from rotating as you crank the film advance lever. It should be easy to stop.
Dave
Dave
btaylor541
Member
Sorry I don't know anything about your sprocket problem, but I was concerned with the brake fluid used as a lubricant. Is this automotive brake fluid for hydraulic brakes? If so, it is not primarily designed as a lubricant and attacks certain materials including paint, some adhesives and some rubber.