Zorki vs. FED

dll927

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Since I have several Zorkis, and with a couple models have pairs, I recently decided to try for some of those cute "different color" cameras. So I decided on some FED 2's.

I ordered an all-black one (I understand they were not factory-done that way) which I paid something of a premium for compared to others listed, and I also ordered a red-body one. Both have arrived and were from the same seller(Asterliks571). I right now have a gray-body one on order.

As luck or whatever would have it, neither of them wants to cooperate very well on taking off and replacing the back - as in film loading. Specifically, the two keys at the bottom that fasten the back on the camera won't return properly to their original positions when back is put back on.

This raises a question I'd like some feedback on. Some websites I've read on
FSU cameras seem to imply that FEDs were not as well-made as Zorkis. Now with this experience, I'm beginning to wonder myself. I should mention that I've had no such problems with any of the Zorkis. (Two Zorki-1s and a Zorki-5 have bottom loading, which is a different kettle of fish.) None of my Zorkis - or for that matter, Kievs - have presented this kind of problem.

Considering that some sites I've read seem to consider the FED-2 to be one of the better models, I'm beginning to wonder. Any reactions?
 
Fed's generally are simpler cameras, very utlitarian in design. Keep in mind that most are very old and the manufacturer may not have had access to the best materials that German and Japanese camera makers had.

Because they are simpler there is less to go wrong. However, because the materials are oftem weaker those fewer parts may go wrong more often. When they do, a screwdriver or pair of pliers will fix most problems.

Zorki's can be just as beat-up as Feds. However, I have noticed that most are in generally better shape. It's almost as if their owners took better care of them.

When I first started buying Sovier-era cameras 4 years ago, they seemed to be in better condition. It's seems like we are now buying from lower down in the barrel.

-Paul
 
I have three FEDs but only one of them is a FED 2. The back on it fits very tightly. To get it off I turn the fasteners or whatever they are called on the bottom. put the camera face down, wrap my fingers around the edge of the camera and use both thumbs to push the back down so it is free. Replacing the back requires pretty much the same thing in reverse. I have to push it back into place and I find again using the thumbs is the best way and again turn the fasteners when the back is in place.

I have a Kiev-4 which is kind of different. You open the fasteners on it and suddenly the camera is in two pieces and the take-up spool is rolling across the floor.

Dick
 
dll927 said:
As luck or whatever would have it, neither of them wants to cooperate very well on taking off and replacing the back - as in film loading. Specifically, the two keys at the bottom that fasten the back on the camera won't return properly to their original positions when back is put back on.

Congratulations on your recent acquisitions! This is normal on well cared for or repainted FED 2s. As long as the repaint job is well done it assures light proof operation. When the keys are unusually hard to turn make sure the back is properly seated on the groove, don't force.

I agree that Zorkis are better made and have brighter VF/RF but part of the FED 2s appeal is the simple design, IMHO the nicest "original design" from that factory.
 
I hear you on that bit about the takeup spools. I happen to have a Welta Welti that dates from about 1937, and there is no way, short of ruining the camera, that the spool is going to come out at all!! By FED time, one would think that would have been standard.

The original Leicas and Contaxes had proprietary casettes, since it took Kodak until around 1936 to come up with the standard casette. But it seems a little odd that the Russians didn't think of built-in spools until somewhat later.
 
If the problem is that the bottom locks will not lock, it is posible that the screw holding them in is loose and has allowed the locking tabs to rotate out of position. If that is the case, a screwd river is all thatis needed to put the locks in the proper position.

Just remove the back, turn each lock on the inside so that tyabs are in the "open" position, place the outside lock handles in the "open" position, and tighten the screws on the inside.

-Paul
 
Having a fed-2 with a limited experience in such a world, i can't tell u which is better, but i know my fed's usual problem is the shutter speed, it needs a fix from time to time, initially i was planning t get some other cam as mine is soooo ooooold. But everyone i consult used to encourage me to try and use it, it's so simple..My experience witht he other types is just what i've tried in the stores..
 
I bought my original Fed2 in Leningrad (St Petersburg) in 1963, when I was there on a school trip, I still have it and it still works perfectly, a couple of tiny patches of the chrome has lifted off but thats all. I just bought a very late Fed2 a few weeks ago, couldn't resist it, have just covered it with leather.
I like the long base RF on the Fed2's, I know the Zorki 6 one is similar, but the Fed 's seems clearer to me ( I have a Zorki 6 BTW ), my 50mm f1.5 Nokton focusses fine on it. 🙂
 
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