Zorki/Zorki info please

rbiemer

rbiemer

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I'd been sort of idly looking for a rigid I-22 lens and found one with a Zorki/Zorki camera. Not too pricey so I bought it.

Any quirks of these Zorkis I can expect?

I have used a Canon IVsb2 before so the bottom loading won't be a complete surprise.

The last camera I've used with separate RF/VF windows was my grand-dad's Argus C-3 and I was not too fond of that experience so I hope I can appreciate the Zorki a bit better!

Thanks,
Rob
 
I guess it depends on what model Zorki you're talking about, as far as quirks are concerned, since each one was an 'improvement' on a previous model. And then, there is the question about the seperate view and range finders. All it does is slow you down a bit, but that's not neccessarily a bad thing. The Zorki finders are way better than the C3. Unless you are going for critical close focus, after a while you can get pretty good at esstimating distance and DOF, which will speed up the picture taking process, in case you are thinking of using it for street photography.

PF
 
Sorry, I should have posted a photo.
This model:
My%252520Zorki.jpg

( photo from: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350267163921 )


Good to hear about the finders compared to the Argus finders, thanks!

I don't do street photography but I do use the focus tab [on my lenses that have 'em] to set the approximate distance before I raise the camera.
Rob

farlymac said:
I guess it depends on what model Zorki you're talking about, as far as quirks are concerned, since each one was an 'improvement' on a previous model. And then, there is the question about the seperate view and range finders. All it does is slow you down a bit, but that's not neccessarily a bad thing. The Zorki finders are way better than the C3. Unless you are going for critical close focus, after a while you can get pretty good at esstimating distance and DOF, which will speed up the picture taking process, in case you are thinking of using it for street photography.

PF
Click to expand...
 
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First thing, check the curtains for light leaks, before you shoot any film on it. That may be one nastiest issue with the camera, if the curtains are aged and have holes.
Check the rangefinder for calibration by pointing at an object at a known distance and checking if the range is found correctly. I think these cameras are calibrated for focal length of lens they were originally coupled with, so if the lens was replaced for another focal length, the calibration may be off. Or it may be off because of mechanical issues, of course.
Is the lens really clean and clear as described in the auction?

With this type of cameras, the key thing to know is - never change the shutter speed without cocking the shutter first, because otherwise the shutter speed mechanism may disassemble and you will likely have to open the camera to fix it back. Do you know what I am saying or you need more detail?
 
Looks good Rob. They are simple cameras. Either it works or it doesn't.

I agree with Celesta, inspect the curtains, open and closed; but there is no easy

way to check light leaks. I would do a sunny sixteen and burn a roll quickly.

If you're paying for processing, just get it developed. Check the negs.

The Zorki 1d I've used for the past 10-years or so has been as good as

my Leicas, and presented no problems.

Good luck with your new friend.

Rick
 
Thanks, Celesta; good advice that bears repeating! I have bought oh, one or two ;)FSU cameras from the seller that had this and his descriptions are generally good so I'm not too worried about the lens but it is 60 years or so old so may need some attention. The I-22 that is on it is actually what I was looking for, the camera is a bonus.

Rick, good thoughts about checking for light leaks in this bottom loader.

Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll have it in my hands!

Thanks,
Rob
 
When I have to describe my Zorki, I have to qualify it with saying it's a D/B model, because it has a D body, with a B rangefinder. Thus, it has two serial numbers. But yours looks like a complete B, because of the leather covering the entire front of the camera. And, it's probably an export model, since it has Cyrillic and English engravings.

I got an I-26M for my camera to replace the collapsible I-22 that came with it, so I could use the 40.5mm filter set I have. It appears that your I-22 rigid takes the same size, but I haven't looked it up yet. Could be 39mm. I also like the fact that mine was an earlier model, with the focusing tab, instead of the knurled ring, which from what I hear, gets into the view from the finder.

Curtain holes can be patched up with fabric paint, available at craft stores. It may take a few coats, but the stuff really works. Just don't use it to coat anything else in the camera, as it might not adhere to the metal very good, and it doesn't dry to a good hardness. I was finally able to plug the holes in mine when I tore it down to make sure that there were no more film bits stuck in the transport and shutter parts, and was able to get to the back side of the curtains. Found out the pressure plate was in upside down, so now film loading is much better.

PF
 
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Have had a quick look at Princelle's book and, from what I've read, this is likely a "type 1c" which also seems to mean that the Industar on it could be original to the camera. the double engraving was also on some later Zorki cameras but the shutter speed progression is the earlier version.
Not rare, certainly, but this will be the earliest Zorki I've owned.

The photos from ebay aren't good enough for me to be sure, but it doesn't look like the lens is threaded for filters/hood...I'm hoping that my SOOGZ adapter will fit so I can get a hood on it.

The FSU bug reminds me of malaria; one can be free of symptoms for a long time then suddenly it's back...:D
Rob
 
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Congrats Rob!

Your hunch is right, there's no filter ring but the SOOGZ or Fison will fit since the barrel is standard A36. I also acquired my rigid I-22 mounted on a ZORKI/Zorki (1c) a while back from a US based seller...I think the double engraving was also intended for export.
 
Hi,

I agree about running a film through it but the leaks will show up on the film if the lens cap is left off and there's a bit of time between exposures. The leaks happen when the camera is not being used.

Take a lot of shots quickly and the light may not leak through enough to register.

Your one has the export (Latin script) on it and so should have standardised fittings. They are decent cameras if unloved because they were very popular and are now cheap. And a lot of people confuse politics with engineering. The FED 28mm ought to prove that the makers knew what they were doing.

Regards, David
 
Interesting to compare a Zorki to an Argus C-3, a.k.a. "the brick". I'm old enough to remember when the C-3 was every man's camera if they used 35mm and slide film.

But whether Argus or Zorki, we have to keep in mind that we are talking about 50-60 years ago. In their day, they were the 'state of the art', at least as far as amateur use cameras were concerned. Yes, there were Leicas, Contaxes, et. al., but back then those cost more than most people earned in a month, at least.

No, there were no auto-exposures, auto-focuses, digitals, point & shoots, or other modern bells and whistles. But when you never heard of them, you don't miss them.
 
My late father had an Argus CC during his time in the Army/WWII. After a while, he bought a C-3, which he used to take a lot of our family photos. A while back, he gave me the CC along with a box of all his gear that was left. The box for the C-3 was in there, but not the camera. I guess he sold it somewhere along the line. You do things like that to feed your family.

So I've aquired a few Argi along the way. Another CC to see if I could use any parts to fix Dad's camera, and some other models (a couple of A2B's, an A-four, a half dozen C-3's, a C-4 Geiss, and a 520 See-Through). While the A was designed to be a 'poor man's Leica', when the C models came out, that concept went out the door. It was just a poor man's camera. But they weren't cheaply made or designed, they were just inexpensive to make. All the while, the FED and Zorki's were just copies, and thus were truly a 'poor man's Leica'. And still are. That's why I own one.

PF
 
David Hughes said:
I agree about running a film through it but the leaks will show up on the film if the lens cap is left off and there's a bit of time between exposures. The leaks happen when the camera is not being used.

Take a lot of shots quickly and the light may not leak through enough to register.
Click to expand...

All true, and I'd like to add this: My IIIf leaked light through the stitches of the curtains, that is, only during the wind-on. So for testing purposes, you'd want to wind on slowly and with light shining on the lens.

Depending on your mechanical aptitude, you may just prefer to pull the sleeve and check the curtains directly.
 
Thanks for all the pointers, folks!
The Zorki arrived with yesterday's mail boat and it seems to be fine.
I'll know better after I finish the roll of BW400CN I loaded.

SAM_0786.JPG


The combination of SOOGZ and the hood I have might vignette, it seems a bit deep for the 50mm I-22 but I don't have a native a36 hood so this will have to do until either there is a problem or until I get something else.

And this camera is small; I really like that.
Not sure what I'll do about the lack of strap lugs, though. Probably get one of Gordy's tripod mount wrist straps.

The separate RF/VF windows aren't as annoying as I feared they'd be,
the RF patch is pretty good and the VF is small but very good, I think.
Lots of FSU fun ahead!
Rob
 
That's a mighty fine looking rig there, Rob. I use a simular hood (straight, not canted) on my I-26M and have seen no vignetting. And if BW400CN doesn't show light leaks, then nothing will. Good luck.

PF
 
One thing I have noted since yesterday is that the RF patch is much better when I'm wearing my polarized sunglasses.:cool:
I'm still about in the middle of the first roll--I shot a few photos quickly, then left it sitting in the sunlight for a while and will likely finish the roll later today.
Some shots have been metered and some were by Sunny-16. Near and far subjects, and at various f stops. I should have a pretty good idea of how well--or not--this one is working once I get the film back.
Rob
 
Looks good Rob. Got a 1c for Father's Day several years ago; my first [of 3] Zorki.1. Gotta say, once I landed on my Zorki.1's and Leica.3's I was pretty much done. I just don't grab for anything else. Their size and simplicity just fit me pretty well I guess. And the 1c is by far the smoothest working Zorki.1 I have and has a heck-of-a hair trigger. Couldn't even use the mini-soft release on mine; too many accidental misfires! Enjoy! Me thinks you're gonna like it.

p.s. ~ actually, just noticed, mine is about 50 numbers older than yours - #230970 - probably in assembly about the same time.
 
Thanks, Reagan!
I was not honestly sure I'd like this one; it doesn't have some of the amenities I generally look for: no slow speeds and no strap lugs to mention two, but it is growing on me as I use it!
Interesting coincidence about the serial numbers! According to Princelle's numbers, a bit more than 351,000 of the 1c were made. Which works out to 350 a day. So, likely to be made on the same day... Now I wonder how many people KMZ had making these cameras?

Rob
 
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