zorki1 vs zorki3

fabrice

Member
Local time
11:07 PM
Joined
Mar 2, 2006
Messages
14
Hi there,
I recently put an eye behind a leica M6 ... and the seller had to smash hard to make me loose the grip (just kidding ! ... well huum ....)

The fact is I shoot with a zorki 1, great cam, but tiny rangefinder.

As I really don't have the bucks for a leica, is it reasonnable to think a zorki 3, 3M or even a 4 could do great, in terms of rangefinder sight ?

I must say that the tiny zorki 1 RF, with is bit of magnification, runs well even on my j9 and J11 (I read here and then that RF with little base were hard to focus with long lenses, I must say this is not true on this one)
 
The Zorki 3 has a fantastic viewfinder I think. The "problem" with modern wide viewfinders is that the 50mm lines are in the middle, so technicaly the physical size of the image is not that much bigger that what you would see in a zorki 1. Ok you see the "outside" of the frame, but you lack the magnification and precision of the Z1 rangefinder...
The Z3 has a 1:1 50mm viewfinder, it's awesome... if you don't wear glasses :D It combines the Z1 precise rangefinder with a much bigger viewfinder. I really like mine !

It's really great for shooting 50mm lens. the "modern" Bessa or Leica are of course better for versatility sake...

I haven't tried other more recent Zorkis, altho some have a large rangefinder base that could be interesting. But hard to beat the Z1 & Z3 for the looks :D
 
there are two factors in easy of focussing - baselength, and magnification. The Zorki-1 does have a small actual baselength, but because of the magnification, the effective baselength is more than capable of focussing fast lenses.

If you don't mind the split view- and rangefinder, you could get an external 50mm finder. I use an old beat-up leica SBOOI that I bought for $35 on ebay. It's brighter than any in-camera finder, and it gives a lovely 1:1 view.
 
Hello Jonas,

Do you know what the effective base length is on the Zorki 5 you gave to me? I don't know what the magnification is in the viewfinder, but the baselength of the rangefinder is certainly long!

Thanks.

Clarence
 
If you enjoy shooting with Zorki 1, then you'll be happy with the Zorki 3 or 3M. You'll still have the feel of small Leica II series even though these are larger cameras.

The Zorki 3 and 3M still has the low top plate, which keeps the shutter-release and the winding knob in a low position. These models still fit the right hand in natural manner.

In my view, once the Soviet designers, put the flash synch on the later 3S and 4 models the whole feel of the Zorki cameras changed.

The three features that you'll definitely appreciate on the Zorki 3 and 3M are the faster film loading and extra shutter speed at the fast end. I very rarely use the slow speeds below 1/25th, but they are there. The third feature you'll appreciate is strap lugs.

The 1:1 viewfinder is large and bright, but it isn't in the same league as the Leica M3.

If you wear eye glasses, I would think that the smaller viewfinder of the Zorki 1 would be more precise with regards to framing. With that said, the combined rangefinder in a single viewfinder does speed things up a bit.

Personally, for dead-on accuracy, I prefer the Kiev when using the Jupiter 9 at wide open apertures. However, in addition to their heft the Kiev, you really do loose that small 35mm camera hand-hold that I discussed earlier.
 
Solinar said:
In my view, once the Soviet designers, put the flash synch on the later 3S and 4 models the whole feel of the Zorki cameras changed.

The three features that you'll definitely appreciate on the Zorki 3 and 3M are the faster film loading and extra shutter speed at the fast end. I very rarely use the slow speeds below 1/25th, but they are there. The third feature you'll appreciate is strap lugs.

If you're interested in using flash with your cameras, FSU rangefinders can be rather limited in what they offer. Having said that, I found some ways to work around some key problems.

1. High speed flash sync for standard lenses:
Flash-enabled FSU rangefinders sync at 1/30 and below. This is quite pathetic as it prevents you from using handheld flash with a 50mm standard lens and anything longer. If you set the shutter speed any higher, you will get 'banding' - portions of the frame will be visibly dimmer as the shutter moves too fast to synchronise with the flash.

Using a 50mm lens handheld at 1/30 is only an issue, however, if you want ambient light in your picture. If you stop down the aperture small enough that little or no ambient light is lighting the picture, and your main source of light is the flash, then 1/30 and below will work fine with your long lenses, even when handheld, because the duration of the flash output is extremely short.

If you want to retain ambient light in your photo, you will have to find some form of a support, like a monopod.

2. Low shutter speed ambient light fill:
One reason why low shutter speeds are useful is that they allow for ambient light to act as a fill light when you're using flash as your main light. The instantaneous flash output will give a sharp foreground image, while the ambient fill will ensure the background is not completely dark.

Many FSU rangefinders lack slow speeds, but you can simply use the Bulb or 'B' setting instead. On my Zorki 5, I activate the shutter when it's set to B and release my finger immediately. The resulting speed is something close to 1/8s. You can leave your finger on a little longer and get speeds of 1/4 and lower. It's not terribly accurate, but it works.

I hope this hasn't been too much of a digression. The point I wish to make is: you can use flash effectively with FSU rangefinders.

Clarence
 
Last edited:
The actual baselength of the Zorki-5 and 6 rangefinder is 67mm. However, I am not sure of the magnification, so I can't tell you the effective baselength.

-Paul
 
I wear eyeglasses, so i can't see the full field of view on my Zorki 3M, but what I can see corresponds pretty closely to the field for my Jupiter 9. Works better than an auxiliary finder for me.
 
Back
Top Bottom