Dent removal question

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Sparrow

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I have an almost perfect M2 body, a real dentist camera, unmarked bottom cover, zero brassing on the sprockets or spool and pressure-plate.

4716994702_269a94c2b8.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4716994702_269a94c2b8_b.jpg


4716995476_4c33834d42.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4716995476_4c33834d42_b.jpg


Even the strap lugs don't look like they've ever been used and there are none of the normal meter marks on the top deck and speed-dial. It looks, feels and sounds perfect.

4716997270_068c300d23.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4716997270_068c300d23_b.jpg


Unfortunately I don't use it much as it has a small depression over the finder where it looks like a meter has impacted the top-cover (yes I do know I'm being anal here)




Anyway I've decided I really have to do something about it so I can get some use out of it, so the options I can think of off the top of my head are;

1) Buy the tools to take the top off and try to straighten it myself
2) Find someone who could do that for me, (recommendations welcomed)
3) Send it to CRR and have it re-finished in black

Anyone got any thoughts, suggestions or recommendations?
 
I vote for sending it to CRR for repair and a black finish ... yum!

And with this fine idea of course I'm spending your money! 😀
 
Oh and I meant to add ... you're not alone, because that dent would drive me insane also! 😛
 
I have repaired dings like that before, or worse, with paint. But if you came to me for that, I'd decline the job...it's too nice to paint. 😉 There may be a way to hammer it out while leaving it chrome but there is always the chance it will look worse afterwards...
 
digitalintrigue said:
I have repaired dings like that before, or worse, with paint. But if you came to me for that, I'd decline the job...it's too nice to paint. 😉 There may be a way to hammer it out while leaving it chrome but there is always the chance it will look worse afterwards...
Click to expand...

Have you ever tried to knock-out a dent?

I can't find anything on the interweb, or maybe I just can't get the right question to ask google

PS I'd prefer to keep it chrome too
 
If it was mine and I had the cover off I'd be placing it on a solid block of hardwood and tapping the dent out from the inside with a brass drift or similar.

Alternately ... here in Oz we have dent removal services for cars that can remove quite ugly small dents without breaking or marking the external paint ... I'm sure you'd have them there in old blighty also. I had a very ugly dent on the bonnet of my Subaru from a golf ball size hail stone that these people managed to remove so successfully I couldn't even tell where it had been ... all for about forty dollars from memory.

Maybe thay could do something like that fairly simply?
 
Keith said:
If it was mine and I had the cover off I'd be placing it on a solid block of hardwood and tapping the dent out from the inside with a brass drift or similar.

Alternately ... here in Oz we have dent removal services for cars that can remove quite ugly small dents without breaking or marking the external paint ... I'm sure you'd have them there in old blighty also. I had a very ugly dent on the bonnet of my Subaru from a golf ball size hail stone that these people managed to remove so successfully I couldn't even tell where it had been ... all for about forty dollars from memory.

Maybe thay could do something like that fairly simply?
Click to expand...

That was my thinking too, but it would be nice to hear from someone with experience

I get nothing but those dent-doctor websites when I type it into google!!
 
Stewart, I have the tools to pop a top plate and think I can instruct you to do it careful enough not to mar the chrome at all.

You can borrow my tools (you pay shipping to and fro) in a few weeks time if I'm done using them with the user grade M3 summer project I'm currently fixing.

Once the top is off, I'd proceed like Keith suggested, but not use a brass tool, but a piece of pine wood (large oval carpenters pencil?) to carefully tap the dent out.

PM me if you like to borrow.
 
buzzardkid said:
Stewart, I have the tools to pop a top plate and think I can instruct you to do it careful enough not to mar the chrome at all.

You can borrow my tools (you pay shipping to and fro) in a few weeks time if I'm done using them with the user grade M3 summer project I'm currently fixing.

Once the top is off, I'd proceed like Keith suggested, but not use a brass tool, but a piece of pine wood (large oval carpenters pencil?) to carefully tap the dent out.

PM me if you like to borrow.
Click to expand...

That is very kind of you, but I'm putting an order in with micro-tools anyway so I'm getting the M tool-kit anyway, none of my gear is getting any younger anyway.

I was thinking of making a hardwood mandrill to hold the top, and then using a block and G-clamp to push it flat, a plan?
 
Sparrow said:
That is very kind of you, but I'm putting an order in with micro-tools anyway so I'm getting the M tool-kit anyway, none of my gear is getting any younger anyway.

I was thinking of making a hardwood mandrill to hold the top, and then using a block and G-clamp to push it flat, a plan?
Click to expand...

Doing it with clamps and flat blocks of wood would be the safest, but might not take it out completely. I would go this route, and get it as flat as I could with this method. I wouldn't move on to hammering if it wasn't completely gone. It's hard to control the angle of the piece of wood you're hammering, and if you tilt it, you put another dent in. Dry ice looks interesting!
 
How quick does the dry ice temperature spread through the metal, and into the underlying parts? There's an RF assembly under there and you do not want that to split due to sudden cold impact.

I'd go with the flat hardwood block underneath and the pinewood stick / big pencils blunt back end to softly tap it out. The carpenters pencils diameter would be large enough to cover the dent completely, which is what you want. Maybe even use a small wooden mallet to tap with, since the brass is very soft anyway. Better to invest a lot of time by giving 200 small taps and end just right (check sheen under lamp light) than to tap once too hard when rushing.
 
For something that minor I'd just leave it. When metal is bent it's also stretched. So it's usually not possible to get it exactly like it was. If it were a car you'd use a filler to get it brought back up, and then sand it down perfectly smooth. Obviously w/ unpainted metal this is out.

This is one of the reasons (actually THE reason) I like using old beater cameras. Just sling 'em on your shoulder and go shoot.
 
M2 Dent removal

M2 Dent removal

What ever you do don't hammer it! The only way is to support the top after removal on the undented flat top and gently ease the dent out with a flat tool (metal) applying pressure from the inside. The emphasis should be on the cautious approach, checking regularly that the progress is successfull. I have never found it best to support the dent on the concave side as to fully remove the indentation you will have to spring it beyond tha flat state.

Best of luck!

normclarke.
 
The problem with dents is that when metal becomes dented, it also stretches. This makes removing dents more complicated than it might first seem. The normal way to remove dents is to heat the metal being worked, which causes it to shrink back to it's previous size. Good body workers in a car body shop can remove dents without using filler when they follow this method.

The dent in your M2 does not look bad at all, and shouldn't require any application of heat. To remove the dent I would use a piece of hardwood (perfectly flat) and a flat aluminum mandrel together in a press (a shop press used in car repair shops).

You need to set up the block of wood on the press table and make sure it's level. It should be quite large, so that the top cover does not overhang any part of it. You set the camera cover on the block of wood, and then put the aluminum mandrel (a small block of aluminum) inside the top cover over the dent. The mandrel should completely cover the dent. You then use a fixture on the press to press down on the mandrel, just a bit. You must make sure that the mandrel presses down squarely inside the top cover. Remember that a press can generate tons of pressure, so apply a little pressure, check the cover, and if the dent is still there, repeat the process and add a little more pressure.

If you have a friend who has or works at an auto repair shop, you should ask to use his press for a few minutes. You can also buy a small press at Harbor Freight for $30 or so (presses come in handy for many kinds of projects).

Do not use a hammer to remove the dent. The pressure applied to the dent must be very precisely applied, a few millimeters error can end up making even more dents along the perimeter of the existing dent.

I used to be a jeweler, and I have had a bit of practice at repairing dented jewelry and such.
 
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