Is there a general No-No list for handling manual cameras?

[HLing]

I've learned the hard way. NOW i know with the Leica IIIf I should not adjust the shutter speed before I've cocked the shutter.

Now that I know that, I've even begun to see information about how this could potentially damage your camera. is it that serious?

My question at the moment is, with what other cameras do I have to beware of in this respect?

Also, is there somewhere a list of things like this that may be very obvious to users, but not to beginners?

 

[Roger Hicks]

I've learned the hard way. NOW i know with the Leica IIIf I should not adjust the shutter speed before I've cocked the shutter.

Now that I know that, I've even begun to see information about how this could potentially damage your camera. is it that serious?

My question at the moment is, with what other cameras do I have to beware of in this respect?

Also, is there somewhere a list of things like this that may be very obvious to users, but not to beginners?

In general, no. If it's obvious, it's obvious. The main reason not to set shutter speeds on rotating-dial cameras is, well, because they rotate and the indices don't line up.

If something doesn't appear to work properly, the way you expect, don't force it. Try to find a manual on line somewhere. And consider the possibility that it may be broken already.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Brian Legge]

'Don't force it' is probably one of the only completely generic rules. Almost everything else is specific to particular types of cameras.

 

[Roger Hicks]

'Don't force it' is probably one of the only completely generic rules. Almost everything else is specific to particular types of cameras.

Dear Brian,

There's an old English saying: "Do not force it: get a bigger hammer."

Cheers,

R.

 

[HLing]

So...what about an Olympus Pen Original? and how about a Canonet Original with the bottom winder? Does the rule apply to both?

I've got both fresh from repair and clean, so I know they are working well ( pictures came back nicely). I don't want to be breaking the camera unknowingly from this point on.

As for "don't force it" for a general rule, I've suffered the opposite, where I don't wind completely for fear of breaking something.

Thank you both for your input!

 

[sevo]

So...what about an Olympus Pen Original? and how about a Canonet Original with the bottom winder? Does the rule apply to both?

"Do not force it" applies to anything. "Don't alter the shutter speed on a un-cocked camera" is generally untrue - you may lose or mis-expose a frame on cameras using a classic Leica style cloth shutter, but that is the worst that will happen, even if something appears to break in that context, it already was broken. Nor is the inverse any truer - you cannot set some leaf shutters past some internal thresholds if the shutter is already cocked, but only forcing them would damage the shutter.

 

[Michiel Fokkema]

My hassy must be cocked before removing or mounting the lenses.

Cheers,

Michiel Fokkema

 

[HLing]

My hassy must be cocked before removing or mounting the lenses.

Cheers,

Michiel Fokkema

I was just going to ask about changing lens mid roll in general for both Leica screwmount and Minolta SLR SRT 201, though I never owned or used a Hasselblad, and hadn't heard about cocking it before romoving or mounting lenses. That's interesting. What happens if it's not cocked before removing and mounting?

I've found with the SLR that on occasions some frames seemed solarized with sort of yellowish fade. It's especially when changing lenses in a hurry and under bright sun (which is not a wise thing to do, I know).

".... "Don't alter the shutter speed on a un-cocked camera" is generally untrue - you may lose or mis-expose a frame on cameras using a classic Leica style cloth shutter, but that is the worst that will happen, even if something appears to break in that context, it already was broken.

Sevo, losing a frame or two on the Leica would have been alright had I known the cause was changing shutter speed before cocking, but when I didn't know, it just made the camera seem unreliable;instead of holding the operator accountable.

 

[rogerzilla]

Change the lenses on any rangefinder in subdued light. The shutter curtains don't always keep out sunlight entering the lens throat at unexpected angles. SLRs are fairly immune from this.

 

[Calzone]

A general rule is that it is bad for mechanical cameras to sit unused. One of the best things you can do for longevity and trouble free use is use your camera daily.

Cal

 

[HLing]

A general rule is that it is bad for mechanical cameras to sit unused. One of the best things you can do for longevity and trouble free use is use your camera daily.

Cal

THAT I can and do do!

 

[oftheherd]

I was just going to ask about changing lens mid roll in general for both Leica screwmount and Minolta SLR SRT 201, ...

Interchangeable lens cameras usually don't require that. I hadn't heard of the need on a Hassy, but then I don't own one either. An old SLR where the lens only communicated with the body on exposure (usually to set the aperture) would not be a problem. That was so on the old Minolta SRT series, all models as far as I know.

Even on my Fujical ST 901, the body communicated to set the aperture, and also to tell the body what the aperture would be on the lens when the exposure was made. Didn't need to worry about anything there.

Also when going manual on shutter speeds, the dial on the Fujica could be moved before or after cocking the shutter as it was electronic. Same on the non-electronic Yashica TL Super and Pentax SV.

 

[Vickko]

1. on RF, make sure the lens cap is off when you take the photo
2. make sure the rewind lever turns when you advance the film
3. check the shutter and aperture settings

....Vick

 

[sevo]

I was just going to ask about changing lens mid roll in general for both Leica screwmount and Minolta SLR SRT 201, though I never owned or used a Hasselblad, and hadn't heard about cocking it before romoving or mounting lenses. That's interesting. What happens if it's not cocked before removing and mounting?

You cannot take off or mount the lens. That is the same for all medium format leaf shutter SLRs - lens and body have to be in the same state (usually cocked) so that the lens/body couplers can mesh.

 

[mwooten]

... NOW i know with the Leica IIIf I should not adjust the shutter speed before I've cocked the shutter. ...

The FED3 that I have is the same way. Cock the shutter, then set the speed.

Included in the Medium Format SLR's that are referred to above in sevo's post is the Bronica ETRSi.

Also, I guess you shouldn't point a cloth-shuttered rangefinder at the sun any longer than you should look at the sun with your naked eyeball. It will mess them both up.

 

[Phil_F_NM]

You can't immerse them in saltwater (except for the specific underwater cameras like the Nikonos).
I found that out after falling into the Bay of Cadiz with my M4. Oops.

Phil Forrest

 

[FrankS]

Rollei 35 models - cock shutter/wind on film, before attempting to collapse lens.

Retina and Fuji folding cameras - set lens to infinity before folding

 

[Gumby]

'Don't force it' is probably one of the only completely generic rules. Almost everything else is specific to particular types of cameras.

I agree with this one! I just sold a RF camera to a yokel who forced the self-timer without cocking the shutter and destroyed the shutter. He lied to me and said "something must have jiggled loose in the mail" but there is NO WAY. I can't imagine how much forcing it took but it was a considerable amount.

 

[peterm1]

The other big lesson is that cloth shutter curtains can be fragile. It is too easy to put your finger through a curtain when loading film - especially in an LTM camera which is extra fiddly. And more especially if you are clumsy. (Like me)

The other problem I have had is that when I trimmed the leader on an LTM camera I once cut through one of the notches in the edge of the film. This created a weak spot and when the film was wound on it tore the film longitudinally - part of which bunched up inside the camera body and part of which wrapped around the spool.

Do you know how difficult it is to remove a torn film from an LTM camera without destroying the shutter? Pretty hard!

 

[FrankS]

The other problem I have had is that when I trimmed the leader on an LTM camera I once cut through one of the notches in the edge of the film. This created a weak spot and when the film was wound on it tore the film longitudinally - part of which bunched up inside the camera body and part of which wrapped around the spool.

Do you know how difficult it is to remove a torn film from an LTM camera without destroying the shutter? Pretty hard!

That happened to me once too. Since then I trim the leader back further.