Vickko
Veteran
To you repair enthusiasts, can you tell me what to fix on an Nikon S2 where the slow speeds mostly don't fire, or only fire after I release the pressure from the shutter button, or, when I hold the camera upside-down?
Thanks
Vick
Thanks
Vick
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Not a DIY type, but wanna know. Bump.
KHW
Established
It can be DIY if you have the skill and tool. A 1mm screwdriver would be very important.
Seems like that it is a lubrication issue only. I did that many time on several S2 and SP. You will need to remove the focusing unit to get access to the slow speed component.
The simplest way is to google for "Nikon Camera Repair Handbook", and go to Section for S3 repair. Figure 1.15 shows the slow speed escapement. A drop (or less) of WD40 would work.
Seems like that it is a lubrication issue only. I did that many time on several S2 and SP. You will need to remove the focusing unit to get access to the slow speed component.
The simplest way is to google for "Nikon Camera Repair Handbook", and go to Section for S3 repair. Figure 1.15 shows the slow speed escapement. A drop (or less) of WD40 would work.
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
WD-40 is a great solvent for removing lubricants. It's not a lubricant itself. Well, not one that should be used in a camera. All it will do is to cause the old lube to slough off and get stuck in places it shouldn't be.
If it's only a lube issue, the old stuff needs to be cleaned off completely (ronsonol is best for this) then the ronsonol residue needs to be removed then the parts need to be re-lubed. If you use silicone-based lube, use it for all lubed points; if you use oil-based lubes, use it for all lubed points. Don't mix and match, they won't really like each other. Also, make sure the weight of your lube matches the purpose of the geartrain, escapement, helicoid, metal-metal interface.
Phil Forrest
If it's only a lube issue, the old stuff needs to be cleaned off completely (ronsonol is best for this) then the ronsonol residue needs to be removed then the parts need to be re-lubed. If you use silicone-based lube, use it for all lubed points; if you use oil-based lubes, use it for all lubed points. Don't mix and match, they won't really like each other. Also, make sure the weight of your lube matches the purpose of the geartrain, escapement, helicoid, metal-metal interface.
Phil Forrest
_goodtimez
Well-known
Indeed I WOULD NEVER use WD40 on any camera gear train. The stuff become heavy and sticky after the solvant has evaporated; this could make a mess inside a camera.
Vickko
Veteran
Okay, fixed it. Had to open up the top, but didn't need to go underneath. Used naptha to clean out the shutter feelers and cams, and light shutter oil to relube.
I will let it sit overnight and retest in the morning.
Vick
I will let it sit overnight and retest in the morning.
Vick
Stefcuoz
Established
Very simple....
Very simple....
Very simple.....
first Ship S2 to me....
add a simple present of low value in the box for me and 30 usd for shipping a "new" S2, fully revisioned i will ship to you...
Steve.
Very simple....
Very simple.....
first Ship S2 to me....
add a simple present of low value in the box for me and 30 usd for shipping a "new" S2, fully revisioned i will ship to you...
Steve.
To you repair enthusiasts, can you tell me what to fix on an Nikon S2 where the slow speeds mostly don't fire, or only fire after I release the pressure from the shutter button, or, when I hold the camera upside-down?
Thanks
Vick
Vickko
Veteran
aargh. Camera repair curse ..... it doesn't work in the morning.
I learned from one very wise repair person to always "season" a repair.... meaning, let it sit overnight without putting it all back together, and make sure it works.
Vick
I learned from one very wise repair person to always "season" a repair.... meaning, let it sit overnight without putting it all back together, and make sure it works.
Vick
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
The slow speed escapement is most likely dirty and needs to be cleaned.
It is a gear train unit at the bottom of the camera from the inside.
It is removed and let to soak in naphtha then gently blown dry and put back in dry without being lubricated with oil or grease.
If the slow speeds still hesitate a slight tensioning of the 2nd curtain will get them moving but use this as a last resort as too much tension will throw your high shutter speeds off (narrowed slit width).
It is a gear train unit at the bottom of the camera from the inside.
It is removed and let to soak in naphtha then gently blown dry and put back in dry without being lubricated with oil or grease.
If the slow speeds still hesitate a slight tensioning of the 2nd curtain will get them moving but use this as a last resort as too much tension will throw your high shutter speeds off (narrowed slit width).
ankaka
-
If you are having problems with your Nikon S2 shutter, the first thing you want to check are the batteries and memory card. If the batteries are low or dead, or if the memory card is full or improperly loaded, it can adversely affect the operation of the digital camera's shutter.
NIKON KIU
Did you say Nippon Kogaku
HaHahahahaIf you are having problems with your Nikon S2 shutter, the first thing you want to check are the batteries and memory card. If the batteries are low or dead, or if the memory card is full or improperly loaded, it can adversely affect the operation of the digital camera's shutter.
Kiu
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
If you are having problems with your Nikon S2 shutter, the first thing you want to check are the batteries and memory card. If the batteries are low or dead, or if the memory card is full or improperly loaded, it can adversely affect the operation of the digital camera's shutter.
That is great Coolpix advice.
Vickko
Veteran
Nothing warms me up more on a cold winter day than successfully CLA'ing a Nikon S2.
So, under the top cover, a rotating cam has to turn and strike the second curtain release lever, and trigger the slow speed escapement. It has to be immaculately clean and properly lubricated. And the shutter knob has to be installed, as it adds the necessary inertia and weight for the rotation.
It is just like the Leica IIIg.
It's working now, and all back together, and I'll again try it tomorrow. Okay, maybe I should have left the covers off, but, it was too close to "right" and I wanted to put it all back together.
....Vick
So, under the top cover, a rotating cam has to turn and strike the second curtain release lever, and trigger the slow speed escapement. It has to be immaculately clean and properly lubricated. And the shutter knob has to be installed, as it adds the necessary inertia and weight for the rotation.
It is just like the Leica IIIg.
It's working now, and all back together, and I'll again try it tomorrow. Okay, maybe I should have left the covers off, but, it was too close to "right" and I wanted to put it all back together.
....Vick
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