Vickko
Veteran
I find the viewfinder for my "new to me" Fuji GSW690II slightly hazy, or, lower contrast, compared to a Leica M.
Do you find that too, that a GSW/GW690II viewfinder isn't crystal clear?
Any fixes for this?
Vick
Do you find that too, that a GSW/GW690II viewfinder isn't crystal clear?
Any fixes for this?
Vick
Kenj8246
Well-known
I didn't have a problem with a 'new to me' GW690. Unfortunately, the nicely aligned rangefinder image didn't translate into a good image, as the rangefinder and the lens seemed to not be coupled. It's on its' way back to KEH for fixing.
Kenny
Kenny
Vickko
Veteran
Yeah, after I read your post, I tried the scotch-tape as a groundglass trick. It worked okay. My first film goes in tomorrow.
Kenj8246
Well-known
Care to elaborate on that? Am I hearing that you fixed the issue?
Vickko
Veteran
Oh, I put Scotch Magic Tape on the film plane and tried the focus (like a ground glass on a view camera). The focus looked good.
I should be able to get my first film back tomorrow, to confirm that photos are good.
Vick
I should be able to get my first film back tomorrow, to confirm that photos are good.
Vick
Steven Dooley
Established
How did your images turn out, Vick?
Do you like the camera?
Do you like the camera?
kuzano
Veteran
For checking actual focus against the rangefinder....
For checking actual focus against the rangefinder....
The Scotch brand magic tape works, but I use a plastic Opague bowl, like tupperware with a largish side or bottom. I cut a piece the size of the film plane and put the frosted side against the film plane rails where the film rides. It works just like a real Ground Glass although that is also a very good way to go.
Then, with the camera open and the plastic or GG tapes to the back:
1) Set the camera on a tripod.
2) Mark off distinctly, 3 or 4 different distances.
3) Focus the camera via the GG method on the first distance (3-5 feet)
4) Check through the rangefinder to see if the patch shows focus.
5) Check the remaining distances the same way, say at 8-10 feet, 15 feet, 25 feet.
6) If the RF is off, there should be an adjustment cam, ie on the cam follower for the Fuji, riding on the lens just inside the mouth of the camera. Other camera's may have a hole for a small screwdriver for adjustment from outside, while on others the hood may have to come off to adjust a screw on a cam.
I adjust front cell focusing folding cameras also using this method. Using the same steps, and checking the front cell pointer/distance ring against the view method through the back of the camera.
There are usually three tiny screws on the distance ring on the front of a front cell focus lens. You loosen them just enough to turn the ring without turning the lens cell. Turn to right distance to the pointer, as the lens is focused. After you check and set the first midrange distance... say 10 or 15 feet, all the others should be on the money through the other measured distances.
I started out with the large flat from a tupperware bowl. I now have a good 6X9 ground glass that I tape, etched surface to the inside of the camera, to the back film plane of my Fuji's.
I've never actually had a Fuji that needed calibration, except one. I sent that one to Frank Marshman (Camera Wiz) for adjustment and some other work.
For checking actual focus against the rangefinder....
The Scotch brand magic tape works, but I use a plastic Opague bowl, like tupperware with a largish side or bottom. I cut a piece the size of the film plane and put the frosted side against the film plane rails where the film rides. It works just like a real Ground Glass although that is also a very good way to go.
Then, with the camera open and the plastic or GG tapes to the back:
1) Set the camera on a tripod.
2) Mark off distinctly, 3 or 4 different distances.
3) Focus the camera via the GG method on the first distance (3-5 feet)
4) Check through the rangefinder to see if the patch shows focus.
5) Check the remaining distances the same way, say at 8-10 feet, 15 feet, 25 feet.
6) If the RF is off, there should be an adjustment cam, ie on the cam follower for the Fuji, riding on the lens just inside the mouth of the camera. Other camera's may have a hole for a small screwdriver for adjustment from outside, while on others the hood may have to come off to adjust a screw on a cam.
I adjust front cell focusing folding cameras also using this method. Using the same steps, and checking the front cell pointer/distance ring against the view method through the back of the camera.
There are usually three tiny screws on the distance ring on the front of a front cell focus lens. You loosen them just enough to turn the ring without turning the lens cell. Turn to right distance to the pointer, as the lens is focused. After you check and set the first midrange distance... say 10 or 15 feet, all the others should be on the money through the other measured distances.
I started out with the large flat from a tupperware bowl. I now have a good 6X9 ground glass that I tape, etched surface to the inside of the camera, to the back film plane of my Fuji's.
I've never actually had a Fuji that needed calibration, except one. I sent that one to Frank Marshman (Camera Wiz) for adjustment and some other work.