Fomapan B@W film

Check JandC Photo's website--they have times for the same film. To quote them in an email to me: " If you want to expose at 200 use Rodinal or that type of developer. At 400 Straight D-76 or Microphen are great. The film does not push extremely well, but for 800 I would suggest a speed enhancing developer like Microphen."
 
One thing, IMO, someone should never get married to is a certain developer. It's a look you are wanting; find out what combo got it.
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I am really feeling this, I have not used anything but Diafine in a while. I have to spread my wings. I have an unmade package of D76 and some DDX on hand. I may need to get some Rodinal and/or HC110 to bring in some more veriety.
 
rover said:
I am really feeling this, I have not used anything but Diafine in a while. I have to spread my wings. I have an unmade package of D76 and some DDX on hand. I may need to get some Rodinal and/or HC110 to bring in some more veriety.
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When you do try diafine with foma 100.. don't forget to try a stop slower, too. My experience with foma 200 was that it has very nice, creamy tones at 100 in diafine, and considerably less grain than at anything higher -- although highlights can get a bit much (not really blown, but sort of too vibrant). I did the testing after I asked for help, but almost everyone who responded told me so patronizingly "oh, you should figure out what you like". So there. :p
 
Fomapan 100 is in these times my favorit film,
dev. in ADOX ATM49 1+2 (same as Calbe A49)
 

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cachao said:
I get good results using Barry Thornton two bath development. It's a nice film. as is Classic Pan 100.
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Which one? ExactolLux or Dixactol Ultra? I'm using both right now, they are really something else. Cannot decide yet which I like better though I seem to be leaning towards the smoother and fantastic tones of the ExactolLux.
 
I used a lot of Foma in 120 in my toy camera phase - great film with loads of silver (except one variant, which I forget - is a new technology crystal type, like T-Max)

Good results in so many developers
 
Fomapan 200 works good with Rodinal 1:50, but it works best with FX39 - a tip I got from Roger Hicks. In both cases it is wise to expose at EI 125.
However, I have had a lot of PITA with this fim due to holes in emulsion. I managed to eliminate the problem only after starting to use Moersch Alkali Fix (alkaline fixer), and BTW I never use a stop bath.
It looks like acid process exacerbates the tendency to show these holes in the emulsion.
If you control this, the results can be very rewarding for the sharpness and tonality - particularly for metallic objects and potrtraiture. I would only avoid using this film for landscape, because the blue base seems to be helping to keep the skies well washed out, even when shooting with filters.


20081038 by mfogiel, on Flickr


20093716 by mfogiel, on Flickr


2008090313 by mfogiel, on Flickr


20095513 by mfogiel, on Flickr


MF20121110 by mfogiel, on Flickr
 
I like Foma film, the 100 is a good all rounder similar in character to APX and is certainly a multilayer cubic grain. The 400 is grainy for it's speed which unless you use a speed increasing dev is less than box speed probably 250-320 depending on developer.

This is the 200 in Rodinal 1:100

145436077.jpg


The 200 had problems with pin holes in the emulsion (although I never saw the problem) They shut the line down and reformulated the emulsion, any stock in the shops is now the new improved version.

Here are tests i did in 2007

100
http://photo-utopia.blogspot.co.uk/2007/03/fomapan-100-classic-foma-is-czech-firm.html

200
http://photo-utopia.blogspot.co.uk/2007/06/fomapan-200-creative-this-film-acording.html

The 400 is has probably the biggest grain of it's speed type, so it is great for getting nice traditional looking grain at wider apertures or brighter conditions.

95321312.jpg
 
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I've used the Foma 100 and 400 films developed in D-76 1+1. I like the 100 a lot. Here's an example in 120 size:

pure-sealed-dairy-1.jpg



The 400 has nice tonality too, but I have not used much of it since I have tons of Tri-X on hand. Here's a 35mm example of the 400 done by a friend:

3rf08-1.jpg


I have developing times I've tested on my website here:
http://chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/developing.php
 
mfogiel said:
I would only avoid using this film for landscape, because the blue base seems to be helping to keep the skies well washed out, even when shooting with filters.
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There may be a slightly different reason for the effect you have seen, as the image-forming light does not pass through the filmbase.

I have a suspicion that the Dutch 'Hema' films (store-brand, sold nationally until a few years ago) were from Foma too.
 
I love the Fomapan films and buy the Arista.EDU versions from Freestyle.

I don't use the 400 in 35mm (I use Tri-X there) but I really like the 100 film in both 35 mm and 120. I also use the 400 120 film.


Fomapan 100 (35mm)


Hydrant by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr


Grant 3 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr


Vespa by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr


Arista.EDU/Fomapan 400 (120)


Mini2 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr


Bathroom1 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr


Northport Harbor 2 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr
 
Revisited FOMA too these days.

Can someone compare the new version of the 200 vs. the old one?
I have seen, it lost the "T" in the name. Will this affect how it works with special TGrain devs?
The net is full with reports how well the old FOMA T200 worked with these developers.

Thanks,
 
haempe said:
Revisited FOMA too these days.

Can someone compare the new version of the 200 vs. the old one?
I have seen, it lost the "T" in the name. Will this affect how it works with special TGrain devs?
The net is full with reports how well the old FOMA T200 worked with these developers.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

It's still the same film it lost the T quiet a long time ago due to copyright problems T-Max

Dominik
 
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