Nikon FMs - close focusing, which aid?

[domagojs]

I have been having problems getting focus spot on from close distance with my FM and FM2, so I'm wondering which aid others use in those situations? I have regular screens in both cameras, one with three aids: outer circle, microprisms and split-image rangefinder screen. Sometimes my images are in focus, sometimes not, it's different cameras and lenses - so it's clearly operator error. Before you think about it, I had my sight checked last year and it was perfect 🙂

When I say focus for close distance, I mean situations when I focus on someone within 1 meter, usually indoors, and the aperture is usually around f/2, with lenses being 28mm, 35mm and 50mm. And yes, I do know that DOF is rather shallow in those situations 🙂

Also, I checked cameras on easy-to-focus targets using split-image RF, and they focus perfectly (the focus distance scale showed exactly what it was supposed to show - 1 meter).

I always use the split-image RF, I tried using microprisms but I wasn't even able to narrow the focus down with those, while I never figured how the outer circle works really...

So, which and how do you use?

 

[Jonnyfez]

It's likely more about camera shake than dof or focusing issues. Once those shutter speeds come down it's really a crapshoot whether you'll get sharp images.

FYI: I also shoot with an FM.

 

[domagojs]

thx for your answer. but it's really missed-focus, not shake. i know because very often it's either the collar or the sleeve which is in focus. and since we are talking about DOF of less than 10cm (4 inch) the face is blurry...

i also noticed that i usually miss it indoors, i believe that my hit-rate is much higher outside.

so, what's other people's experience and which aid do you use?

 

[Vics]

Are you talking about hand held shots? At close distances and wide apertures, it's REALLY hard to nail the focus. Either rhe subkect or the photographer is likely to move out of focus (just an inch or two will do it) just as you release the shutter. Therefore either shoot several shots in those situations hoping to get a good one, or use a tripod.

 

[KoNickon]

Have you checked the focus using a ground glass? It's possible the reflex mirror on the camera is out of adjustment -- and this can lead to misfocusing.

 

[Dwig]

... Either rhe subkect or the photographer is likely to move out of focus (just an inch or two will do it) just as you release the shutter. ...

... or when you reframe after focusing. Using the center prisms, split or micro, to focus a normally framed portrait requires that you reframe the pix after focusing. Under such conditions it is better to focus at the final framing using the off center "ground glass" image of the subject's face.

Another source of error is your vision. If these problem shots are more common in lower light it may be that you need an eyepiece diopter to help your eye focus on the focusing screen.

 

[Mablo]

What others have said above. I have +2 eyesight and use +1 correction diopter with my FM. It helps a lot with critical focusing.

 

[rbsinto]

I also use an FM on a regular basis, but I had mine customized so that it now has a modified FM2/FE2 grid screen instead of the standard screen they were originally made with.
For close up work done indoors, I always use a tripod to eliminate hand-held camera shake and find that the grid screens work well to get sharp focus.

 

[farlymac]

You could use a DG-2 Eyepiece Magnifier, with a DK-1 adapter so it will swing out of the way when not needed.

PF

 

[nikon_sam]

First I would eliminate what could be the problem...
Find a box of cereal with contrast and sharp lines, shoot in similar lighting like indoors, maybe the kitchen near a window...shoot wide open...set the camera on a tripod, meter, focus and shoot away...check your results...if they look good and sharp it's not the gear...
Cable release, mirror locked up or self-timer...maybe all three to know for sure the camera isn't moving...
Shoot, step down, shoot more...take notes on each exposure...

I find that I like to lean against anything I think will help steady me...also try practice shooting...empty camera semi-long lens...focus on a non moving object and check the steadiness of your camera handling...

 

[xxloverxx]

Video yourself shooting. You might be swaying back and forth without noticing it.

 

[sparrow6224]

Only one of you so far has given the OP an answer to the question he actually asked: he finds himself not seeing enough in the finder to get the focus he wants. What do any of us use for this? The screw in magnifyer that swings away is superb -- with a very sophisticated diopter dial on it. I use it all the time on the FM2n the FE and the FM3a. It's great.

 

[kshapero]

I have an FE and I put the K3 screen from the FM3A and it made focusing much easier.

 

[domagojs]

wow, so many answers! thank you all for your answers and suggestions! since there are too many to answer individually, i'll answer by topics raised.

generally speaking, i'm starting to believe it's unrealistic to expect to have a perfect hit rate in conditions i have problem with. it's very shallow dof, people move (i'm strictly talking people pics here!), shutter speeds are on the lower side (1/60, 1/30), etc.

with that said, i did what i should've done before: i read the manual (RTFM stupid!) 🙂 and it says the following:
The split-image rangefinder spot is considered the most suitable for precise, pinpoint focusing... The fine matte outfield, OTOH, is ideal for use with telephoto lenses or in close-up and macrophotography.

so, i'll try to use the outer circle for these shots and see if i can get a higher rate of hits.

re the cameras and their functioning, i believe they are in good shape. majority of times i hit the focus and i also did a test of focusing on a contrasty object from a tripod and comparing focus distance scale with real distance, both cameras showed the real distance most/all the time. i used split-image for focusing.

re my technique, when i don't hit it, i usually get sharp pics, but focus slightly missed, so i don't think there's anything wrong there...

ofc, there's always possibility to get that magnifier, but i'd still like to keep my cameras as simple as possible, so i'll leave it is a possibility.

thank you all for your support!

 

[ruby.monkey]

With practice an E screen (matte with grid) allows you to nail focus without having to recompose afterwards.