Help needed - ND Filter for Summilux

Murchu said:
Something like a 3 stop ND filter seems the ticket for what you want. Have one myself for just this purpose, a hoya I think, although bought it after I stopped shooting, so don't have any pics with with. You figure if you're exposing your TriX at 250, a 3 stop ND filter gets you down to f2.8 @ 1/1000 in bright sunlight, f2.0 in hazy sun, and f1.4 in overcast weather.

Here in Ireland, where its pretty much only ever overcast or hazy sunlight, 3 stops is ideal. If you need an extra stop on top of the 3, maybe consider stacking the ND with something like a medium yellow, as not sure how easy it is to get hold of something like a 4 or 5 stop ND or even if anyone makes anything aside from 1, 2 & 3 stop ND's, 10 stoppers or expensive variable ND's.

I shoot in all kinds of available light (when I do shoots), and find it very handy to be able to shoot everything from outdoors to indoors, and even night shots, all with one 400 speed film, a fast lens, and an ND filter when I need to shoot at wider apertures in daylight.
Click to expand...

Fascinating.

I follow the stop numbers you have above and agree with those...and if I have the R8, I could shoot in bright sunlight at f2.0@2000, or f1.4@4000 shutter speed...hopefully without problems.

This will be important as I hope to use this lens in Florida soon.:angel:
 
dave lackey said:
Fascinating.

I follow the stop numbers you have above and agree with those...and if I have the R8, I could shoot in bright sunlight at f2.0@2000, or f1.4@4000 shutter speed...hopefully without problems.

This will be important as I hope to use this lens in Florida soon.:angel:
Click to expand...

Yes, imagine you would need 5 stops in the Florida sun, to be able to shoot wide open with your R4 & 80 f1.4. A 3 stop ND filter, and a medium/ strong yellow filter, if you're shooting black and white, should get you 4 of those 5 stops when shooting in open, bright daylight, and imagine a few filters will be cheaper than an R8.. even if thats not what you want to hear, lol
 
Murchu said:
Yes, imagine you would need 5 stops in the Florida sun, to be able to shoot wide open with your R4 & 80 f1.4. A 3 stop ND filter, and a medium/ strong yellow filter, if you're shooting black and white, should get you 4 of those 5 stops when shooting in open, bright daylight, and imagine a few filters will be cheaper than an R8.. even if thats not what you want to hear, lol
Click to expand...


That is going to be one dark VF. Go for slower film or hold back development and rate at 100. I've rated HP-5 as low as 50 on several occasions. Sure that's not Tri-x but, HP5 would give you similar results. Personally I would shoot something with a lower Box rating (50-100) and use a lesser ND filter that will have minimal impact on your VF. If you want a preview of your VF brightness take it outside on a sunny day and stop it down to f5.6-F8 and hold in the DOF preview.
 
f16sunshine said:
That is going to be one dark VF. Go for slower film or hold back development and rate at 100. I've rated HP-5 as low as 50 on several occasions. Sure that's not Tri-x but, HP5 would give you similar results. Personally I would shoot something with a lower Box rating (50-100) and use a lesser ND filter that will have minimal impact on your VF. If you want a preview of your VF brightness take it outside on a sunny day and stop it down to f5.6-F8 and hold in the DOF preview.
Click to expand...


Good point...been thinking about the trip to Florida. Slide film may be the best bet both for speed and color. Slow B/W makes more sense than TriX during the day if I shoot B/W.

I knew you guys would be a tremendous resource! Now I still got homework to do.:D
 
f16sunshine said:
That is going to be one dark VF. Go for slower film or hold back development and rate at 100. I've rated HP-5 as low as 50 on several occasions. Sure that's not Tri-x but, HP5 would give you similar results. Personally I would shoot something with a lower Box rating (50-100) and use a lesser ND filter that will have minimal impact on your VF. If you want a preview of your VF brightness take it outside on a sunny day and stop it down to f5.6-F8 and hold in the DOF preview.
Click to expand...

That is true alright, much easier to play around with on a rangefinder :)
 
Dave, I'm going to be shooting a large project in late July with my large aperture primes on my M8/M9P bodies. I also want to be able to take advantage of those large apertures' shallow DOF outdoors in what will undoubtedly be harsh, bright mid-day light.

I was faced with the same issues you're looking at. I bought the B+W MRC 0.9 3 stop filters (52mm & 58mm.) I really like the B+W coatings and I think they minimize reflections better than just about any other brand out there. Hoya is good and I have several, but I spent the extra dollars for the B+W. The project I'm doing will be a one-time shot and I'm trying to maximize my ability to shoot keeper images.
 
hepcat said:
Dave, I'm going to be shooting a large project in late July with my large aperture primes on my M8/M9P bodies. I also want to be able to take advantage of those large apertures' shallow DOF outdoors in what will undoubtedly be harsh, bright mid-day light.

I was faced with the same issues you're looking at. I bought the B+W MRC 0.9 3 stop filters (52mm & 58mm.) I really like the B+W coatings and I think they minimize reflections better than just about any other brand out there. Hoya is good and I have several, but I spent the extra dollars for the B+W. The project I'm doing will be a one-time shot and I'm trying to maximize my ability to shoot keeper images.
Click to expand...

Just ordered the B+W 67mm 0.9 ND Filter.... Gonna be ready for my trip to the Coast next month with the big 80 Lux!
 
You still need the ND filter. I just meant to say that the one that you chose will be OK as long as you use a lens hood. The multicoated filter may not be necessary.
 
Canyongazer said:
250 vs. 400
It's only 2/3 stop, Dave...no worries.
Click to expand...

Okay, per your recommendation, I am going to finish the roll of TriX in my FE2 at ISO 250 or as close as I can set it. Cloudy bright day...Using the 1.8 lens with no filter at ISO 400, I am getting f1.8 at way over 4000, probably 8000...with the Hoya 25 filter, I get f1.8 @ 2000... sorry, had my numbers wrong earlier which happens a lot lately with no sleep. LOL

If this works out then I will certainly utilize this strategy with the ND Filter. Thanks for the tip!:)
 
Last edited:
In 90% of shooting situations, a single coated filter is fine, especially with a good hood. It can cause reflection/contrast issues sometimes in difficult lighting situations though... especially in strong contrast, backlit. Reflection issues with filters occur most frequently in point-light situations (street lights etc. at night.)

Fortunately, you won't likely be using an ND filter at night anyway... and even a multi-coated filter may not be sufficient to ensure there isn't an issue with all situations, but they'll cover most of that extra 10%. If I'd already had single coated ND filters, I'd just have used them. Since I didn't I got the MRC filters for that "little extra." I'd expect you'll be fine.
 
1/4000 at 2.8?

1/4000 at 2.8?

hmmm...Front lit bright sunlight should be more like 1/4000 sec at f4....and a Hoya 25---if you mean a medium red filter it should need Plus 3 stops. in other words, 1/500 at f 4

Remember, the difference between ISO 400 and 250 is less than a stop.

On film speed dial you'll see "200 . . 400" 250 is the dot closer to 200. The other dot is 320
 
Canyongazer said:
hmmm...Front lit bright sunlight should be more like 1/4000 sec at f4....and a Hoya 25---if you mean a medium red filter it should need Plus 3 stops. in other words, 1/500 at f 4

Remember, the difference between ISO 400 and 250 is less than a stop.

On film speed dial you'll see "200 . . 400" 250 is the dot closer to 200. The other dot is 320
Click to expand...


On the run this morning but just corrected my earlier numbers. Thanks. I will try to find time this afternoon with the ISO at 250. This is looking good!:)
 
Today is what? Tuesday. B&H shipped the ND filter yesterday so it should be here by the end of the week. :cool:

Stepped outside on the patio at 8:20am this morning and the sun hasn't even topped the house next door...our fence is still in shadows and it appears to be a cloudless day in store. Yay!

The 80 Lux metered over 1000 at f1.4 already with ISO 400.

Question: Is a 3-stop ND filter going to be a problem for these early "golden hour" shots at f1.4?

Do I need more speed in the camera for these shots without an ND filter? Or do I need a 1-stop or 2-stop filter??:confused:
 
I received yesterday the Vivitar Series 1 set of three filters for UV, ND8, and circular polarizer filters. They are multicoated HD filters. I got it online from a camera store in new condition.
 
Adox CMS 20 can be developed in rodinal and you get an EI of about 6

that would put f1.4 and f2 at above 1/focal length during the day with no filter, probably f2.8 too given how bright it seems to be in Florida (it's not even that bright in Texas yet, lol).
 
redisburning said:
Adox CMS 20 can be developed in rodinal and you get an EI of about 6

that would put f1.4 and f2 at above 1/focal length during the day with no filter, probably f2.8 too given how bright it seems to be in Florida (it's not even that bright in Texas yet, lol).
Click to expand...


Hmmm...will look that film up! Thanks..:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom