Leicaflex SL diode install

A bit off topic:
Are there any manuals on how to remove the SL‘s top without messing up the ISO dial? I have a dent in the right corner that prevents my exposure counter from advancing. I think I can fix that but don‘t want to mess with the metering...
 
Calzone said:
Shawn,

I just bought a “R” 21 Super Angulon. Came boxed with hood and caps. Pretty much the same optical formula of the legendary M-21 SA 3.4, but for a lot less money.

My (SL2 Film) has no mirror lockup, but I have a Canadian black MD-2. I have it rigged with a black TA Rapidgrip, and black TA Rapidwinder, and a Zeus’s 21mm VF’er. The R-M adapter from my SL-SL2 digital kit allows me to use the “R” glass on my “M” body.

With the hood I have some VF’er blockage, but the camera looks and is pure evil. Mighty savage and kinda weaponized; Part black-jack, part dagger, part brass knuckles, so it is like carrying a deadly weapon in plain sight.
Click to expand...

I ended up getting the Super Angulon. Was sold as having haze on the rear element but it was very minor on the edge and cleaned up easily. Looking forward to shooting it.

52022772537_5e49f12271_b.jpg


Will also try it on the M240. My R to M adapter was slightly thin so I am shimming it out to get the focus scale accurate.

Shawn
 
shawn said:
I ended up getting the Super Angulon. Was sold as having haze on the rear element but it was very minor on the edge and cleaned up easily. Looking forward to shooting it.

52022772537_5e49f12271_b.jpg


Will also try it on the M240. My R to M adapter was slightly thin so I am shimming it out to get the focus scale accurate.

Shawn
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Shawn,

I thought the SL2 has no mirror lockup. How did you mount the 21 SA?

Post Script: Know that my SA is a F3.4. Is it possible with the F4.0 no lockup is needed?

Cal
 
The f4 version is retrofocus, it doesn't need mirror lock up. Works fine on my SL, SL2 and R4. And being retrofocus it should behave better on digital too.

Shawn

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shawn said:
I think pulling the top is going to mess up the ISO dial. Haven't removed it but it looks like the important point is to check the top and bottom positions/combinations (aperture/shutter/ISO) before removing the dial so you have a reference when reassembling it. These threads kind of mention it...

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/203550-need-help-with-my-leicaflex-repair-attempt/
https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topi...eigenreparatur-soz-in-der-klemme/#post2390938

Shawn
Click to expand...

Thank you! I may gibe it a try.
 
shawn said:
The f4 version is retrofocus, it doesn't need mirror lock up. Works fine on my SL, SL2 and R4. And being retrofocus it should behave better on digital too.

Shawn
Click to expand...

Shawn,

Thanks for the response. The 21mm F3.4 is a totally different animal. It is a beast on my evil black MD-2 rigged with a TA Rapidgrip, TA Rapidwinder, and a Zeiss 21mm VF’er.

Checkout a Plaubel 69W “Proshift” 6x9 camera. I own one of these with a 47mm F5.6 SA. Pretty much a 21mm FOV. Loads EZ-PZ, and has shifts.

Anyways I’m glad I have the 21mm FOV covered in 35mm and medium format.

Cal
 
Worked on the R to M adapter today. Took the thickness of 3 pieces of copper tape to get infinity and the rest of the focus scale accurate. It is now dead on all the way down to the end of the scale at the 6" mark.

This lens looks like it will behave well on digital.

52027642441_d6ea46353e_b.jpg


On the M240 I tried a few test shots testing out the different 21mm coding options that are built in. Best rests are with the lens uncoded. With the camera set as a Elmarit-M 2.8/21 I got cyan shift on both sides and as a Elmarit-M 2.8/21 ASPH there was magenta shift on left side and cyan on the right. The coding is trying to invert the inherent shift in those lenses on the M240, but since this lens isn't shifting it is making the 'corrections' obvious.

Shawn
 
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