Just bought 2.8E... Have I made the right decision?

[JPD]

Very very nice Rolleiflex.

I personally prefer cameras without third party modifications, because I'm interested in the history of these cameras and the different models, and while the ground glass is darker in the corners than fresnel screens I find the ground glass easy to focus on. The Rolleiflex 2,8 E can be used with the Rolleigrid fresnel screen on top of the ground glass, and I would have preferred that to even a Maxwell screen. But cameras are meant to be used so I don't blame people for getting brighter screens, especially if they don't throw away the original ground glass. The meter looks good on this one. Some have cracks in the transparent plastic on the focus knob. I like the focusing hood on the E, it feels sturdier than the one on the F.

 

[Deleted member 65559]

"the right decision"..... if you make some images with the camera that you like.....

 

[Pál_K]

Yes, you made the right decision - nobody is making TLR’s of that quality today and never will again.

For the Rollei’s, I prefer the simpler models. I bought a 3.5F because “that was the Rollei to have”, but I know my 2.8D will be easier to CLA or repair simply because it doesn’t have the meter linkage mechanism to deal with.

For the F I keep the selenium cell covered with darkened paper when I’m not using the camera in the belief that it preserves the meter. I could be completely wrong.

 

[x-ray]

Can I ask where you found a “plug for the meter movement?” I’d like to preserve my 3.5f meter but I never use it. Thanks for any info you have.

I purchased both the meter cell plug and meter movement plug off eBay. There was a dealer selling nice looking carbon fiber plugs for the movement but don’t know if they’re still available. The meter cell plug is a vintage nameplate with the factory delete plug in it. You’ll just have to check from time to time or you might find one at one of the repair shops. Jimmy Koh May have one.

Good luck.

 

[ravenxarmy]

I just got a camera in minutes ago and it seems to be in a really good nick. I run through all the checks. All shutter speeds seem to be OK, not sure about accuracy but they change. Both lenses are clean, no fungus, no haze etc.

One thing I noticed that bothered me was what seems like quite a bit of oil on the blades. I think this can be a problem on an SLR but what about this one? Will I have to have it cleaned? I took the picture of the blades at F22
Will this have to addressed asap?

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

I just got a camera in minutes ago and it seems to be in a really good nick. I run through all the checks. All shutter speeds seem to be OK, not sure about accuracy but they change. Both lenses are clean, no fungus, no haze etc.

One thing I noticed that bothered me was what seems like quite a bit of oil on the blades. I think this can be a problem on an SLR but what about this one? Will I have to have it cleaned? I took the picture of the blades at F22
Will this have to addressed asap?

You can use the shutter release lock to hold the shutter open on Bulb. Wouldn't be a bad idea to see how clear the lens is.

If the lens is clear, and the aperture moves easily with little effort, check the shutter blades. If they are clean, too, it can probably wait a bit.

What is sometimes overlooked is that leaf shutters with contaminated shutter or aperture blades can often stick to each other. When this occurs and you alter the aperture you will be placing a great deal of extra stress on the attachment points of the diaphragm leaves. If unlucky this can result in breakage.

Not being an SLR shutter (unlike Eg Hasselblad, Contaflex) cocking the mechanism won't place any additional stress on the shutter blades themselves. But, if they are badly contaminated, worst case scenario (being a Synchro-Compur) the speeds may be slow, (or in extreme cases the blades may not even open at all). Hope this general information helps.

 

[ravenxarmy]

You can use the shutter release lock to hold the shutter open on Bulb. Wouldn't be a bad idea to see how clear the lens is.

I did that. The lens seems to be in a rather good shape.

If the lens is clear, and the aperture moves easily with little effort, check the shutter blades. If they are clean, too, it can probably wait a bit.

The shutter blades are as they are in that photo I attached. They move rather smoothly without me being able to feel any stickiness. There are clear stains on them which I would assume is oil. I will run a few rolls of film through it over the next week and see how it all comes out.

 

[nickthetasmaniac]

The shutter blades are as they are in that photo I attached. They move rather smoothly without me being able to feel any stickiness. There are clear stains on them which I would assume is oil. I will run a few rolls of film through it over the next week and see how it all comes out.

The photo you shared above shows the aperture blades, not the shutter blades (sorry if I’ve misunderstood and you already know this).

 

[x-ray]

Shutter and aperture blades get shiny areas on them over years of use. They get polished areas from rubbing together. This is normal and of no concern. I can’t tell on my small phone screen if that’s what you’re seeing but it’s my guess you’re seeing some wear on the blades which is normal and if no concern.

From my experience oil on the blades of a shutter or diaphragm generally doesn’t cause any problem. If someone oiled the shutter and it migrates to the blades then you might, repeat might, at some time have a sticky shutter or aperture but if it is oil you’re not having a problem now and most likely won’t.

Don’t worry unless you have a problem.

 

[ravenxarmy]

Sorry!! The shutter blades are very clear. The stains are on the aperture blades. 🙂

 

[bbutterfield]

I purchased both the meter cell plug and meter movement plug off eBay. There was a dealer selling nice looking carbon fiber plugs for the movement but don’t know if they’re still available. The meter cell plug is a vintage nameplate with the factory delete plug in it. You’ll just have to check from time to time or you might find one at one of the repair shops. Jimmy Koh May have one.

Good luck.

Thanks for the info — I’ll keep looking.

 

[JPD]

The stains on the aperture blades look like they are from something that has evaporated already. Maybe it's from a technician or a previous owner who thought it unnecessary to take the front and shutter apart just to clean something off the aperture blades, and used a solvent that then left those stains when it evaporated.

Why remove the light meter? It was installed when the camera was made. I have seen new Chinese made meter "plugs", but why would anyone use those unless the camera is in crappy condition with the meter parts visibly broken. Making a Rolleiflex in great condition into a German-Chinese Frankenrollei is a big sin in my world. The value of the camera would plummet.

It is not true that many owners remove the meters. I have seen a few examples and the cameras were in bad shape, many with new leather, like horrible red lizard skin, and new paint. One was in so bad shape that even the winding crank was replaced with a home made knob of aluminium.

Please don't do it. I've been collecting and using Rollei TLRs for over 30 years, and the thought of potentially destroying a fine 2,8 E is horrifying.

 

[ravenxarmy]

I suppose I will just leave it as is for now with regards to the aperture blades.
Speaking of meters, the one in my camera seems completely non-responsive.
Is there any way to bring these meters back to life?

Not that it's crucial. Just curious

 

[CLAdictic]

OK I'll chime in, congratulations on the Rollei. I have a 3.5F and really enjoy shooting it. I installed a Beattie screen, with grid, after I had the camera for a short while. That was around 15 or 20 years ago and still cranking.

 

[JSteed#2]

I shoot the 2.8e and it is awesome. The meters are all but useless, and the reflex finders dim, so you got a great deal for a picture taker that is the same as the f.

 

[Abbazz]

Speaking of meters, the one in my camera seems completely non-responsive.
Is there any way to bring these meters back to life?

Not that it's crucial. Just curious

If you really want to replace the meter, you will have to pay dearly for a new old stock Rollei original spare part: https://www.dewitcameras.com/product...-wide/?lang=en

Cheers!

Abbazz