I apply lubricant sparingly, except in specific instances, such as loose-fitting focus helicoid, which may rely on a thick coating of grease. But even there, I like to wipe away the excess which gets squeezed out, because the excess won't serve as a reservoir of fresh lubricant, but rather, may cause problems of it's own.
A Seiko leaf shutter speed escapement was rather picky about lubricants: It didn't run properly when clean and dry, and was almost as bad when lubricated with my usual clock oil. Then I remembered a trick about diluting oil with solvent, and that worked. Same oil, but once the solvent evaporated, much less of it. To the unaided eye, the part looked dry.
I haven't tried with a solvent , but I will do that and try with a small amount and see how i get on,,,its actually the shutter speed escapement on a Leica CL. That seems to get stuck every time I add a little clock oil.
Too much oil will spread, and in that process will pull oil away from where it should be.
As a general rule, faster moving parts need a light oil that won't hinder their movement. Thicker oil and maybe grease should be used on slower moving parts that bear more pressure.
I haven't tried with a solvent , but I will do that and try with a small amount and see how i get on,,,its actually the shutter speed escapement on a Leica CL. That seems to get stuck every time I add a little clock oil.
Michio Ozeki suggests a 5% solution, but I wasn't so precise with my concoction, and I added a bit of molybdenum while I was at it, in hopes that it would continue to provide lubrication even after the oil had dried out.
Historical tidbit: I also recall hearing of leaded automobile fuel being used in the past - I suppose the tetraethyl lead worked nicely as a lubricant! But I don't plan on testing this.
Just tested that Seiko shutter after a longish idle spell, and the slow speeds are working great - no "exercise" needed.
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