choosing editing software for scans

[Ko.Fe.]

Googled "dust and scratch removal from scans in Lightroom".

How to Remove Dust and Scratches in Lightroom (7 Simple Steps)

Learn how to remove dust and scratches in Lightroom with these simple steps, using the Develop module’s tools to enhance and restore your photos.

shotkit.com

Honestly, the rest of software is just a gimmick.
Lightroom 5 will do. Still available on eBay.

BTW, scanners are using simple physics and firmware to remove dust and scratches, but it works best for color photos.
For BW my solution was to print under enlarger.

 

[dannysheff]

Googled "dust and scratch removal from scans in Lightroom".

How to Remove Dust and Scratches in Lightroom (7 Simple Steps)

Learn how to remove dust and scratches in Lightroom with these simple steps, using the Develop module’s tools to enhance and restore your photos.

shotkit.com

Honestly, the rest of software is just a gimmick.
Lightroom 5 will do. Still available on eBay.

BTW, scanners are using simple physics and firmware to remove dust and scratches, but it works best for color photos.
For BW my solution was to print under enlarger.

thanks Ko, downunder and johng, others and rangefinderforum- it's been very useful to come back to the forum (I was a member some years ago) -- we're all doing different things, but I have found your advice most useful and may ask again when I get to printing - thanks all and keep it coming

 

[dannysheff]

A number of people have suggested FastStone Image Viewer and I have to agree. Although I have several other programs I can use, my go to is FastStone. A while ago I scanned a large number of slides dating back to late 50's - early 60's (Dimage Scan Dual IV) and quite a few needed quite extensive work due to fungus and other issues due to long storage. I used Fast Stone almost exclusively to "fix" the problems.

Here is a scan before and after after processing with FastStone,

impressive (my slide scans have some of the same issues, but not as severe) - did you use a scratch/spot remover overall or deal with each point separately? -- approx how long did this one take and did your final image maintain overall resolution and file-size?

 

[Peter_S]

I use Capture One for everything (with some occassional use of Topaz and Gimp/Photoshop), including scans. I really appreciate the sessions (main bonus over LR) and catalogues. That said, if was doing only film work, I would probably go back to Lightroom classic, as dust removal is more efficient with scanned material.

 

[Dguebey]

I have tons of old films scans. I use polaDSR to manualy remove dust spots. This for twenty years I think. I replicate this soft (among others) each time I change computer and tranfer my personal configuration. It is only 648Ko. I notice it is currently available: Polaroid Dust and Scratch Removal. Get the software safely and easily.
It seems a Mac version exists.

 

[Johngwill]

impressive (my slide scans have some of the same issues, but not as severe) - did you use a scratch/spot remover overall or deal with each point separately? -- approx how long did this one take and did your final image maintain overall resolution and file-size?

Firstly I used the dust/spot removal when scanning the slide using the Scan Dual software. Then processing the image in FastStone to correct color, adjust perspective and a bit of unsharp mask, finally touch up remaining issues with the clone/healing tool. Total time on this image was around 15 minutes. This is the final image:-

 

[shawn]

Having copied many of my street-shoot half-frame colour slides with a Sony 7R - 36Mp raw, good copying lens, and like the results on-screen, my next step will be to tidy these up --- minimal change - keeping the grain, bright colours, - no "beautification or 'photoshopping'", no sharpening etc, no removing or adding of objects/people, just scratch and dust minimising without losing detail, maybe minor adjustment of overall tone/brightness/contrast and preparation for printing high quality colour A3+ (Epson 800, pigment, have quantity good acid-free paper). --- so I'd like a quality editing tool without any bells/whistles/AI etc, that would keep the resolution, (and I can organise my own file 'library' - I did most of my editing before copying), --- not subscription if poss -- what are your suggestions???? (I use microsoft, reasonably fast 2022 PC)

I use a Mac but have you tried Microsoft Photos? Looks like it has an erase tool built in. There are a number of 'erase' only editing tools on a Mac but I typically just do it all in Lightroom since it is all non-destructive. The stand alone tools wouldn't be and using multiple tools can cause loss due to cumulative effects of compression.

 

[Dogman]

Here's a couple of examples of my scans. Using the Nikon ES-2, Micro-Nikkor 60/2.8G and a D800. Processed totally in Lightroom. One was a Tri-X, the other was Kodachrome 64. The photos were done in 1974 of my friend, lover and muse at the time--she is now sadly deceased.









............................................

 

[dannysheff]

I use a Mac but have you tried Microsoft Photos? Looks like it has an erase tool built in. There are a number of 'erase' only editing tools on a Mac but I typically just do it all in Lightroom since it is all non-destructive. The stand alone tools wouldn't be and using multiple tools can cause loss due to cumulative effects of compression.

Did try microsoft photos erase tool - seemed to work well and fairly quickly - then checked my files - seemed to have become much resized (down, ie v compressed) - am I missing something?

 

[dannysheff]

Here's a couple of examples of my scans. Using the Nikon ES-2, Micro-Nikkor 60/2.8G and a D800. Processed totally in Lightroom. One was a Tri-X, the other was Kodachrome 64. The photos were done in 1974 of my friend, lover and muse at the time--she is now sadly deceased.

View attachment 4848169


View attachment 4848170




............................................

looking good (in all meanings - and respectfully) - My copy setup uses sony and a top qual enlarger lens but v equivalent - may I ask you to guess how long to 'process' the copy? - I also wonder if the grain has gone somewhat soft but that also depends on dev etc?? anyway - great

 

[shawn]

Did try microsoft photos erase tool - seemed to work well and fairly quickly - then checked my files - seemed to have become much resized (down, ie v compressed) - am I missing something?

I don't use Photos. Check to see if there is a quality setting for saved files though and set it to highest.

That is why an all in one, non-destructive editing tool is helpful. You can apply whatever edits you want and the original file is never changed at all and there is no cumulative effects of multiple saves.

 

[Dogman]

Danny, I don't recall specifics but I remember I softened the images in LR a bit. The Tri-X was originally developed in highly diluted Rodinal with sodium sulphite added to curtail excessive grain.

 

[Tom R]

I have two scanners, one for “rolls” another for individual frames. Once scanned, I use PhotoMechanic to apply metadata, etc. For scratch/dust removal and assuring aspect ratios are correct (actually 3:2 for 35, for example), I use Affinity 2. Affinity plays well (seamlessly) with the NIK PlugIns available now through DxO Labs; of these SilverEFX is useful for “standardizing” collections for publications, etc.