Working with outdated Delta 400

[Bobwill]

I have just aquired 7, 100ft rolls of Ilford Delta 400. It is outdated film by some 18 years, I do not know how it has been stored but it did come from the stock of a professional photographer. Clearly one who didn't have stock control in place. I have no experience of using outdated film of any sorts so this will be a new experience for me. My reason for this post is to try and Short cut my own development of successfully using this film I certainly have enough to work with. So where should I start with firstly:-
Exposure what ASA should I rate this film at?.
Developer what should I use? I have Zone imaging 510 pyro and have had good results with this developer and fresh film will igbe suitable for outdated Delta.
What stop bath should I use? I use deionised water currently wigh fresh film,will this be a good choice? an acid stop is not recommended with 510 pyro. What Fixer should I use? again I currently use eco zonefix from the same company and is not acidic.
Any guidance will be most helpful if you can suggest just starting points I will happy to start with.

 

[Freakscene]

HC-110, either the original Kodak thick syrup, or Adox HC-110 “Original Syrup” have an excess of developing agents and a lot of restrainers. These formulations are by far the best way to develop out-of-date film. You need good shadow contrast to overcome the likely fog and loss of sensitivity. 510 Pyro has moderate shadow contrast at best. 18 years is quite a long time with unknown storage and you won’t know what you’ll get until you try. So give it a go with 510 and if you like it, fine, if not, maybe try something else.

There is likely to be some loss of speed. An old fashioned “ring around” helps - three strips of film at +2, +1, and on the ISO ei, then developed 20% less, dead on and 20% over the recommended time and refine from there. 700ft of film is worth getting something dialled in for.

The rest of the process - stop and fix, won’t make much difference so long as the film is properly fixed.

Good luck and letus know how you go!

 

[Bobwill]

HC-110, either the original Kodak thick syrup, or Adox HC-110 “Original Syrup” have an excess of developing agents and a lot of restrainers. These formulations are by far the best way to develop out-of-date film. You need good shadow contrast to overcome the likely fog and loss of sensitivity. 510 Pyro has moderate shadow contrast at best. 18 years is quite a long time with unknown storage and you won’t know what you’ll get until you try. So give it a go with 510 and if you like it, fine, if not, maybe try something else.

There is likely to be some loss of speed. An old fashioned “ring around” helps - three strips of film at +2, +1, and on the ISO ei, then developed 20% less, dead on and 20% over the recommended time and refine from there. 700ft of film is worth getting something dialled in for.

The rest of the process - stop and fix, won’t make much difference so long as the film is properly fixed.

Good luck and letus know how you go!

OK sounds good. We will give it a go

 

[Freakscene]

OK sounds good. We will give it a go

One last thing - print or scan your negatives and look at prints or scans. Don’t judge directly from negatives unless you have a densitometer (a flatbed scanner works fine) and know how to use it, or if you have a lot of experience. It seems easy but it isn’t; your eyes adjust a lot more than you can judge simply.