Need help on buying a Rollei 35 - Quick!

2/3 of a stop between the 3.5 and 2.8.

I cant take my 3.5 below 5.6 with K64 without seeing a difference, but at 5.6 and smaller it is an ok lens, dont think the sonnar would be a lot better.

I gotta ding. The cameras may need a relube after >30 years...

Noel
 
Xmas said:
I cant take my 3.5 below 5.6 with K64 without seeing a difference, but at 5.6 and smaller it is an ok lens, dont think the sonnar would be a lot better.
Click to expand...

That's kind of a well-known fact about the Tessar lens. It is a bit soft below about f5.6, but above that it is a monster in terms of sharpness. The Zeiss folks call it the "eagle's eye." I have had a number of Tessar lenses in my arsenal over time (Contessamat, Contaflex, Rolleiflex -- and as knock-off designs in some Ektar large-format lenses), and they are beautiful if you have enough light to stop them down...

So, I guess the choice between Tessar and Sonnar may also be influenced by what you are taking pictures of. If it's landscapes or travel photography with "Sunny 16" either one is fine, but if you're going for street photography with (potentially dim) available light, go for the Sonnar...

Cheers,
Mike
 
FrankS said:
Keith, I've read that relatively small numbers of the Xenar lens camera were made, so that could give it some collector value over the more common Tessar lens version. In Rolleicords and 'flexes, the Tessar and Xenar lenses are about the same in performance I think.
Click to expand...
I read up on this last night (see link in the other Rollei 35 thread) Rollei tried the Xenars as a lower-cost option vs. the Zeiss, but Schneider-Kreuznach couldn't keep up with the demand!

In other circles (Rolleiflex) the Schneider lenses are considered equal to the Zeiss in terms of performance.

Since so few were made, they are probably worth more in a Rollei 35, at least collection-wise.

Also, I found out that there WERE a few German-made Sonnars, but very few. They moved production to Singapore shortly after they started making the S models. It should be noted that a German-made Sonnar could be faked by swapping out the bottom cover. (buyer beware!)
 
I think buyers should avoid The Camera Hunter. He's gotten some rather rotten reviews for customer service on another thread here. Maybe you've been extremely lucky.



richard_l said:
I've owned the following:

Rollei 35 - Original Tessar model, black, made in Germany.
Rollei 35 - Original Tessar model, silver, made in Singapore.
Rollei 35 S - Sonnar, black, made in Singapore.

There is no difference in fit and finish or image quality between the Germany and Singapore cameras. Also, the Tessar and Sonnar lenses are both excellent. The Camera Hunter has accessories for these cameras. You will probably need a lightproof pouch of some kind since the meter stays on all the time. The original Rollei pouch is nice, but I prefer my Lowepro, a small soft case with room for an extra roll of film, a hood, and a couple of filters.

I like the models with the meter on the top. It's convenient to look down on the camera and see all of the variables - meter, shutter speed, focus, and aperture. It also may be a bit more stealthy than those with the meter in the viewfinder. My recommendations would be the Rollei 35 or 35 T (which are identical with the Tessar lens) or the Rollei 35 S (Sonnar lens).

Some Rollei photos are here and here.

Richard
Click to expand...
 
Finally, I bought one today.

Finally, I bought one today.

In perfect mint condition, no nicks, no dents,
with original box, packing, instructions, everything, except for the flash.

I bought the original Rollei 35, with Tessar . . . I could not find a Sonnar in perfect condition.

Here's the pics:
http://manfred-lai.blogspot.com/2007/02/rollei-35-circa-1975.html


Now there is one hitch . . . the shutter is not working below 1/30.
It gets stuck . . . I think it needs some lubing.

I want to do this myself, is it possible?

I don't want anyone to touch.

Cheers, Manfred.


Oh, serial number for the Rollei 35 is 3499131
I am trying to find the year of the manufacture.

Thanks.

I can't wait to shoot tomorrow . . . albeit with nothing under 1/30s possible.
 
I would try to exchange it for another Rollei 35 or possibly a 35 TE w/o shutter issues (which might be even cheaper). The battery will be easier to get with a TE and all speeds will hopefully work.
 
Fixed it myself!

Fixed it myself!

awilder said:
I would try to exchange it for another Rollei 35 or possibly a 35 TE w/o shutter issues (which might be even cheaper). The battery will be easier to get with a TE and all speeds will hopefully work.
Click to expand...

I followed the instructions from another thread on this board. Took the top off and fixed the slow shutter speeds. I am amazed at how easy this thing is fix.

How it's working like a charm.

Looking forward to finish the first roll.

Cheers, Manfred.
 
pizzahut88 said:
I followed the instructions from another thread on this board. Took the top off and fixed the slow shutter speeds. I am amazed at how easy this thing is fix.

How it's working like a charm.
Click to expand...
Manfred, when you take the top off, is there access to the aperture dial hardware? The one I just received won't quite go all the way to f/22 or f/3.5. (wide open on mine) I have a feeling there is just pocket lint block it up a bit, as everything else seems great.

If you got that scan of the service manual from that other thread, could you please email it to me? nakedsv AT yahoo DOT com
 
Here's the link:

Here's the link:

Jeremy Z said:
Manfred, when you take the top off, is there access to the aperture dial hardware? The one I just received won't quite go all the way to f/22 or f/3.5. (wide open on mine) I have a feeling there is just pocket lint block it up a bit, as everything else seems great.

If you got that scan of the service manual from that other thread, could you please email it to me? nakedsv AT yahoo DOT com
Click to expand...
First off, I think you will need to take more than just the top off.
I've tinkered a bit with mine.

From the top, I could adjust, and lube the shutter, and the meter.
But the gears that control the aperture . . . that's beneath the front panel.

Any way without further yacking . . .
here's the link:
The blow-up diagram (I know it's small, but that's all I could find, but it was enough for me to work with)
http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Bh7b

To get a copy of the service manual:
http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BmkF


Also some description/tip on how to remove the top:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36825
http://photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Apz3
It's a must read.



Some other tips from meself:
You will need a good tweezer . . . to remove the rewind lever cam,
one very tiny long tip screw driver to hold back a spring from within the rewind lever hole.

Get some tape to tape up the area surround screw holes. So when you slip, you don't end up scratching camera. I've a feeling I don't own this camera, I am using it and preserving it for the next generation to come.

For the two flat special camera screws at the back of the camera, use one of those grip matt thingy to apply torsion and turn anti-clockwise to get it loose.
(Those grip matt they sell at the supermarket to open hard to open cans.)

You will need a blower, some WD40, some lighter fluid.

Also a good desk lamp, to peek around the opennings.

A dish to hold the various screws, a mouse mat to work

Good luck.

If you do get the pdf service manual, would be nice if you could send me a copy, thanks.
 
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